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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil leak

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 3k Gsk

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) fuel return question?

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Yeah I'm not happy about the leak but if it happens again after 36000 I'll spend the $35 for the seal and O ring and just do it myself. After doing a search it doesn't seem that bad to yank the ps pump and vac pump out all together and then seperate them on hte bench. I guess its just another 36000mi part that they made.
 
Mine had a constant slow oil drip between the vacuum pump and power steering pump, didn't make a mess but always had that drop hanging there. Took it in last month and had them look at it, took it in at 8:00 A. M. , had it back by 3:00 P. M with brand new vacumm pump. Hope this one lasts longer than 14,000 miles.
 
Don't lose heart y'all some do last longer... my original seal didn't go until over 90k... I'll be thrilled as a pig in mud to get same mileage from the one I installed!



jm
 
Originally posted by CUMAPART

What a relief I thought to myself a DC mechanic who understands the bombing bug will be working on my truck. A guy that likes his work and appreciates what he's workking on. Hats off to him Oo. Sorry so long but my day couldn't have gone any smoother:D



Ain't it great when it works out like that? I had a DC mechanic replace my lift pump. When he saw the Espar heater in front of it, he said what the @#%& is that? How do you get it out??! I got to go back to the shop to explain what it was, then stay and BS with him while he took the starter out to get to the lift pump. He was pretty happy that I had gauges and he didn't have to hook anything up to check the pressure, too!



Here's a question for you all: Are the seals for the vacuum/PS pump failing because the seal is weak, or because the shaft isn't running true and wearing the seal out prematurely? D/C replaces the unit as a whole, could it be because the unit has a problem beyond just a worn seal?



Matt
 
Well it quit raining here in NorCal So I got under the truck, pulled the vacuum pump and changed the seal. There was a wear mark on the shaft but I put the new seal in anyway, fired it up and no leak. Put about 20 miles on the truck and it's leaking again. Other than making a real mess it isn't much of a problem. I'm starting to wonder if the shaft doesn't wear enough so the seal doesn't fit. The next question is, how to fix the shaft since this seems to be a common problem area. Is there enough room to use two seals? I've got about 70,000 on the truck and it's been leaking for about 15,000 miles.



Bill
 
I too thought about a 2nd seal... and it certainly looked like there would be room to do it (at least on the outside of the adapter towards the p/s pump), but I didn't measure it to see what the OD would have to be to fit the depression on the adapter. If anyone tries this I'm sure we all want the results!



My p/s shaft was not worn when I had it apart, but it did have some rather abrasive scum that needed to be cleaned off. What would cause your shaft to wear? Hopefully not just rubbing on a viton seal! What about getting the shaft turned/ground down and using a smaller ID seal? Otherwise if the shaft is the problem sounds like time for a new p/s pump (only $109 at NAPA compared to $444+ for the vacuum pump).



jm
 
My 2001. 5 ho developed the oil leak at 70,000 miles, from the power steering/vac pump. I removed the assy, machined the housing where the seal is located so I could use two seals. I machined out about . 100 in. from the locating collar that the original seal butts up against. The shaft had a groove, but with the extra machining, the first seal in doesn't run on the groove, nor does the second seal. If from what I gather, the replacement seals are prone to leak again, it may be because of the groove worn in the shaft. I put the two seals in (although the second added seal may run dry for quite some time) thinking it may extend the time before the assy starts leaking again. It has been running for about 10,000 miles and no leaks so far.
 
I'm not sure if it was wear on the shaft or just some gunk where the seal rides. I doubt if the shaft would wear fromthe seal rubbing on it. I wonder if the shafts aren't slightly undersize for the seal and don't fit right. Changing the power steering pump is the way to go if the shaft is the problem. I'll pull the assembly again and see what the problem is. I'll also check to see if two seals won't fit.



I think machining the adaptor to take the second seal is probably a better way to go. Can you buy the adaptor by itself or do you need to buy the entire assembly? Having done things like this before I've said oopps more than once!!!!



Bill
 
I was under the impression that if a shaft wobbles it can wear the seal out very quickly. I'm no mechanic, but isn't this true?



Could it be that D/C is changing the unit because the bearings are wearing enough to cause the seal to go?



Matt
 
I think DC changes the entire pump just because they don't want to train a mechanic to actually fix the problem just swap the part. It is not uncommon to change a expensive part because a 50 cent part broke and is only servciable as a unit. I think they should make every nut bolt seal ect availble instead of just the entire assemblies. I've seen where a fuel line has to be replaced because the plastic quick disconnect is damaged and is only serviced with the line. A wiring harness because a connector was damaged and only serviced with the harness. If you ask me it's stupid.
 
OK went to stealer this morning for my vac pump leak. Oldest, nonsociable mech in the shop took my truck. I got a bad feeling in my gut. He said that there is no leak it's OK. I went out under my truck on the lift and showed him and then he said no that's seepage!!! It's OK. I said what the f#@* is the difference? He had no answer. Service manager said that it's OK but they probably saw that I had 34000 and decided to wait it out another 2000mi. I'm disgusted. :confused:
 
I think you're right about a bearing or bent shaft causing a seal to wear and begin leaking quickly but I doubt if driving 20 miles woukd cause it to give out. I'm going to pull the power steering pump and see if the shaft is the right size for the seal and the answer may be a slightly smaller seal.



I'll also try putting in two seals.



The leak isn't bad but it sure messes up the underside of the engine.



Bill
 
My vac pump was finally replaced today. They also replaced my steering gearbox because it was leaking. I like the idea of getting a new unit as opposed to having some one who may or may not know how to fix it. Besides, by replacing the gearbox that leaked, they fixed my wander that they said didn't exist. :cool:





Matt
 
This is eery. I noticed last night some oil driiping on my DT track bar. Crawled under there last night and I have the same problem. Odometer shows 80,000, but it's really about 97,000, big tires. At least I know what I'm looking at. My warranty just expired. Go figure. -Glen
 
Originally posted by Wheaties

I was under the impression that if a shaft wobbles it can wear the seal out very quickly. I'm no mechanic, but isn't this true?



Could it be that D/C is changing the unit because the bearings are wearing enough to cause the seal to go?



Matt
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Matt, where you at the Ludingtonville Hess this week parked close to the road? I may have seen you if you drive a black sport



Kraut
 
Mine starting leaking at about 40,000 miles. Dodge dealer here was pretty darn good about fixing it considering I bought the truck at their most hated competitor. I did whine about the relatively low mileage and the mint condition I keep this truck in so they replaced both pumps for $200. They said parts were $1200. or $1500. I was happy!!
 
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