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Oil level going up?

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Trans slips in 4H if stuck wheels dont turn

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5% on a 5. 9 May not be a problem by %, but anything above 1. 5% on 3000 indicates some type of problem. Don't wait until your shaft looks like this.

Shaft 5.9.jpg
 
New update, well as I stated earlier I changed my oil removed the EDGE programer and was using the truck. I checked the oil every morning and today after putting on about 220 miles since the oil change the oil level is about 1/4" above the full ( or top of the safe zone) mark. Again the truck starts and runs fine, no smoke no rough idle. Maybe the pump seal is leaking as the truck runs so good? New injectors or a new pump will be a lot of $$$, something I don't have right now.
Does anyone know of a good shop to take it to here on Long Island, NY?
Thanks, Pete
 
New update, well as I stated earlier I changed my oil removed the EDGE programer and was using the truck. I checked the oil every morning and today after putting on about 220 miles since the oil change the oil level is about 1/4" above the full ( or top of the safe zone) mark. Again the truck starts and runs fine, no smoke no rough idle. Maybe the pump seal is leaking as the truck runs so good? New injectors or a new pump will be a lot of $$$, something I don't have right now.

Does anyone know of a good shop to take it to here on Long Island, NY?

Thanks, Pete
 
New update, well as I stated earlier I changed my oil removed the EDGE programer and was using the truck. I checked the oil every morning and today after putting on about 220 miles since the oil change the oil level is about 1/4" above the full ( or top of the safe zone) mark. Again the truck starts and runs fine, no smoke no rough idle. Maybe the pump seal is leaking as the truck runs so good? New injectors or a new pump will be a lot of $$$, something I don't have right now.

Does anyone know of a good shop to take it to here on Long Island, NY?

Thanks, Pete
 
New update, well as I stated earlier I changed my oil removed the EDGE programer and was using the truck. I checked the oil every morning and today after putting on about 220 miles since the oil change the oil level is about 1/4" above the full ( or top of the safe zone) mark. Again the truck starts and runs fine, no smoke no rough idle. Maybe the pump seal is leaking as the truck runs so good? New injectors or a new pump will be a lot of $$$, something I don't have right now.

Does anyone know of a good shop to take it to here on Long Island, NY?

Thanks, Pete
 
New update, well as I stated earlier I changed my oil removed the EDGE programer and was using the truck. I checked the oil every morning and today after putting on about 220 miles since the oil change the oil level is about 1/4" above the full ( or top of the safe zone) mark. Again the truck starts and runs fine, no smoke no rough idle. Maybe the pump seal is leaking as the truck runs so good? New injectors or a new pump will be a lot of $$:{$, something I don't have right now.

Does anyone know of a good shop to take it to here on Long Island, NY?

Thanks, Pete
 
It could be a cracked injector body. If it is, an easy way to check is remove the valve cover, fire it up. Get some clean white copy paper and cut it into strips. If you dip it into oil it coats it nice. If you dip it in oil with heavy dilution of diesel it looks way different, lighter and may have a line on the paper. Unplug the FCA to run the rail pressure up and dip right next to each injector. If your lucky and it is leaking you may identify the offending injector. The cost is free, just takes a little time.
 
There are some labs near you you just send the oil sample and check the oil what kind of ingredients are entering in the oil first you diagnose it so other steps will be next and you decide it what to do when report come from lab.
 
Wow, I don't know why my last update posted 5 times. Anyway my rough idle was intermittent and very rare. Unfortunately I don't have the funds to run to the dealer every time the truck acts up a little, so the occasional wobble of the stick shift at idle was just one of the trucks little quirks.
So I searched for a place here on Long Island to bring my truck to for diagnosis and repair as I have no faith in the local Dodge dealership. I was surprised to find a Cummins Service Center not to far from my home. I thought they would be the best place to take the truck. I called to make an appointment and guess what, a Cummins Service Center that wont work on the Cummins in a Dodge truck. I was told they work on most any Cummins engine just not the ones in our trucks :confused:. They told me to go back to the dealer. I did find another place close to my home that specializes on diesel injection and turbos and spoke to a guy there and the truck will be going in on Monday. I am hoping for the best. I will post back once the trucks problem has been figured out.
 
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Most Cummins shops did not want to pay the license fee for Dodge diagnostic software from what a cummins guy told me
 
Sag2,

since I have the same problem, please expand on your test. When you look for a dip next to each injector, what are you looking at/for.

Any help would be appreciated.

K5IP
 
Update, my truck has been in the shop since Monday. They used some kind of camera and have ruled out a bad CP3 seal. Today they will put UV dye in the fuel filter, remove the valve cover and with a UV light see which injector/s light up. Once isolated then the injector/s that are leaking will have to be replaced, maybe all of them, who knows.
 
Update, my truck has been in the shop since Monday. They used some kind of camera and have ruled out a bad CP3 seal. Today they will put UV dye in the fuel filter, remove the valve cover and with a UV light see which injector/s light up. Once isolated then the injector/s that are leaking will have to be replaced, maybe all of them, who knows.



What does this test check. Is it looking at return flow? Sounds like slightly different way of the measurement SAG2 was talking about.

Keep us posted.

Rog
 
There are way easier way's to check for an injector leak, crank the engine over by jumping the relay with the key off, while the valve cover is off look for puff's of smoke from the injector's if none is present, put a long piece of cardboard over the valvetrain and run it with the fca disconnected and if you have a high pressure leak you will see it then
 
Update, received a call from the shop, injector # 5 is leaking. I'm sure there are other ways to determine a leaky injector that are less technical. For me, I don't have a garage to work in, I don't have many tools & though I probably could handle the injector removal and replacement. I prefer to let the professional handle it. I always worry that when i start something,something else will go wrong, like a broken bolt or the like. New injector going in tomorrow, yes just the one. Though many people recommend replacing all the injectors at once, thats something I can't afford right now. The guy at the shop said with only 70k miles on the truck it should be ok. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Using the EDGE EZ probably damaged the injector due to the higher rail pressure.
 
Sag2,

since I have the same problem, please expand on your test. When you look for a dip next to each injector, what are you looking at/for.

Any help would be appreciated.

K5IP

When the injector body cracks, the fuel leaks into the head area. Since the injectors are usually surrounded by oil puddled in the head, the fuel leaking dilutes the oil around the offending injector. By dipping the strip of paper into the oil, the leaking injector with the diluted oil coats the paper strip differently than all the others.

I do like the dye test though, but you would almost have to fill the filter housing and kill the lift pump to keep it from being quickly diluted and returned to the tank.
 
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sag2
Still looking for a bad injector. I have not found it using the routine visual checks indicated.
I am however interested in doing the dye test. I just did it on my air conditioner and leaks were found immediately.
I still have a tube of dye left over from the AC system. I also have the glassed and uv light necessary. Now the question, is there a specific dye you use for this test?
I am tempted to dump the tube in my filter housing and see what I get.
Bad idea or ok? The makers of the kit say it can be used for fuel leaks but do not go very far beyond that.
What I have is a Spectroline EZ4E ester/universal dye (. 52oz)
Boy is my air conditioner a mess.
Ideas?
Rog
 
Nothing scientific or factually supported here, but if it were mine I would first see if the dye is soluble in fuel. If it is, disconnect the return line from the rail and pump that goes back to the tank. It is a quick disconnect near the bottom of the fuel filter. Put a hose on it and drop it into a container(keeping dye out of fuel tank). Pull the valve cover. Pour your dye in the filter housing, start the truck and let it run for a minute or two. Check for leaks with the valve cover removed, and for traces in the oil. If it is a pump seal it will hit the oil fairly quickly, if injector body it will show around the injector quickly. Run it for a couple more minutes to flush the dye out of the filter, pump, rail, and lines. Reinstall the return line.
 
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