Oil level slightly rising

[Dieselnerd]

I'm in Tucson for the winter, just towed my 5th wheel down here a couple of weeks ago.



I checked my oil yesterday and it was about a quarter inch above the full mark. I checked it every morning during the trip down to AZ and it was always right at the full mark after sitting overnight.



The truck is running fine and idles and starts well. It has 57,450 miles on it and has no engine modifications. I did find a small amount of fuel under the CP3, enough to wet my fingers but not dripping.



I took it into a local dealer this morning to have the injectors checked for leaks since this seems to be the common cause of the oil level rising. I also mentioned the slight seepage on the CP3 when I brought it in.



The injectors checked out OK but they are replacing the CP3. They think the CP3 front seal is probably leaking into the gearcase. They are changing the oil and replacing the CP3 under warranty. My cost is the $100 deductible.



I hope this takes care of the problem. Anyone else ever heard of the CP3 putting fuel into the oil? I can see where it could but never heard of it happening before.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, it can happen. See if that fixes the problem but don't completely rule a cracked injector body. A small crack is hard to find and won't show until they are pulled and examined carefully. Test will not indicate an injector is cracked.

 

[Dieselnerd]

Cerberusiam, thanks for the reply. I'll be keeping a close watch on the oil level.



My thought is that two things don't usually go wrong at the same time and since the CP3 was fine when I left home and just started leaking recently, chances are, it's the cause.



I know it wasn't leaking earlier because I always rub my hand under the pump when I check the oil to make sure it's not leaking.



I have the truck back and it runs fine but no better than before.

 

[cerberusiam]

Your lucky, mine has leaked from the first winter I owned it and every one since. Even the supposedly upgraded SP-3 did not stop the cold weather seep. Starts as soon as the temps drop under 40 degrres or so consistently and quits when the ambient stays above it.



Its a quirk they are known for and really has no bearing on the internal seals. Hence the reason I suggested watching the oil level to see if there is any other issues. When thye go they usually go big time and end up quarts over full. Slight increases almost always end up being a cracked or sticking injector.



Cracked is better than leaking as it just effects the oil and you can see it. A leaking injector has the tendency to melt pistons and cause much annoyance and they are tough to track before a loud knock announces issues. A cylinder contribution test the dealer can run with the scan tool may indicate excess fuel in certain conditions, ie warm or cold, ANY slight excess white smoke on cold or warm start, slightly longer starting times, intermittent burps in idle, or surging are a cause for attention. Maybe not concern but do not ignore things that are out of the ordinary.



Here is hoping the problem was fixed the first time.

 

[Dieselnerd]

Update

Well, I've been driving it for about 6 weeks now and the oil level has not changed. Keeping my fingers crossed but so far so good!

 

[HBarlow]

This is a good thread for all of us with HPCR engines to read and remember.

This is one of the rare threads where the original poster knew exactly what his symptoms were and clearly described the problem and cerberusiam, your discussion of injector failures, symptoms, and causes is good information to know.

 

[AH64ID]

Good deal, glad they took care of you. I had to have the CP3 on my truck replaced under warranty for a seep at about 29K miles.



Goes to show the advantage of checking your oil often!

 

[SDrake]

Anybody on why injector would crack. Is there some event that would make it more likely to happen. does it happen more with power enhancements?



I enjoyed years of fools paradise driving with my 94 I guess, 278,000 on original pump and injectors and still going great. The oil level was allways steady from change to change so I just never worried about it much, occasinally would check when I was under the hood for something else. These stories about cracked injectors and other malfunctions on the common rail engines are gonna make me wear out the hood release



I never used fuel additives on my 94 but these injectors are a different animal. Do I need to rethink the fuel additive question?

 

[TCDiesel]

All CP3s will eventually leak specially in -0 temps its an easy fix and cost about $250 to freshen up. . The crack injector are always relate to abuse or neglect each are fix at NO Charge or about $60. 00 in most cases... CRs required the owners to have more knowledge of there behavior and a little more effort ,But you will NOT find a Diesel that is more operator or driver friendly. GTG

 

[EDankievitch]

I had a cracked injector on my 05, my oil level would not change was always at the full mark even after 5,000 miles. When the injector started to cause runing issues and I changed out the set I found that the oil level drops. I'm usng about a qt every 2,000 miles now. Scares me that my oil was that diluted before. Guess I should have sent some out for sampling ??? Would have found the trouble sooner, maybe.....

 

[cerberusiam]

Anybody on why injector would crack. Is there some event that would make it more likely to happen. does it happen more with power enhancements?



I enjoyed years of fools paradise driving with my 94 I guess, 278,000 on original pump and injectors and still going great.

Pretty sure it is the 24k psi max, spikes over 30k at shutdown, and just some glitches in the casting at times. Pressure boxes that ramp it too high too long are definitely hard on inejctors. Other than that, it seems to be luck of the draw on casting the body.



There is a huge difference between the pressures attained in an HPCR as opposed to a p-pump. Compare 4200 psi to 24000 psi and it tells the story.

I never used fuel additives on my 94 but these injectors are a different animal. Do I need to rethink the fuel additive question?

I would. I am firmly convinced Power Service and 2-stroke oil with an occasional dose of MMO in the mix has a positive effect. No scientific data or valid test data, just my experience.

 

[SDrake]

I have bumped into this information when I thought i wasn't interested. Now I am because of the consensus I fkeep finding. I don't recall where I saw the dosages on the 2 cycle, and Marvel Mystry oil. That would be handy right now so I can get started.

 

[EDankievitch]

2 cycle outboard oil has been used for testing to see if the FCA is sticking. Use the fuel additive that Bosch says to use. The additve will not help with cracked nozzels, but will help keep things from scoring.

 

[JJPage]

I have bumped into this information when I thought i wasn't interested. Now I am because of the consensus I fkeep finding. I don't recall where I saw the dosages on the 2 cycle, and Marvel Mystry oil. That would be handy right now so I can get started.

I have been running 2 cycle oil for over 4 years now. I usually buy Wal-Mart's SuperTech TC-W3 formula, it's ashless, about 11. 00 a gallon. I watch other brands for sales, and as long as it is the TC-W3 ashless formula, i buy it.



I usually fill up at half tank or a bit under, and add 16 oz at that time, sure quiets the injectors down. In the winter months I also add either Power Service or Howes fuel treatment at their recommended dosages, and a couple times a year some Valvoline injector cleaner that I pick up out at Cummins Northwest.



So, no more than a quart of 2 cycle oil to an empty tank, and you will be good.

 

[cerberusiam]

I don't recall where I saw the dosages on the 2 cycle, and Marvel Mystry oil. That would be handy right now so I can get started.

2 cycle outboard oil has been used for testing to see if the FCA is sticking.

Its been used for more than testing the FCA, a lot of us use it regularly. The ULSD fuel is a lot drier then LSD so adding a little lube back helps keep the high pressure close tolerances systems from sticking and\or galling. If you use a good fuel additive its probably not needed but it makes me feel better.



10 wt non-detergent engine oil is just as effective as 2-stroke oil at providing some lube, Don't really need ashless 2 stroke in the 5. 9's if you run them hard at times towing. The ashless MAY help keep deposits on the injector tips down but thats not been proven.



AFAIK, there is no scientific results proving that extra lube and additives help or hinder engine life. About the only data offered is the experiences and they are for the most part positive. I have run the mix in my 05 since new and have no issues with FCA, injectors, etc, to date that others have had. I have run the same mix for 10 years in the 12V's and the same results.



Keep in mind MMO is not really a lube oil, its more a cleaner than anything. The stoddard solvent base shows that. A steady diet is probably not good on an HPCR but a periodic quart in the mix is as good as any injector cleaner and a lot more cost effective.