Oil level

[Bob V]

make sure the truck is level when checking the oil. I have found that even a slight slope will change the reading a lot. I can change the dipstick reading by well over a quart by where I park.

 

[rebar]

make sure the truck is level when checking the oil. I have found that even a slight slope will change the reading a lot. I can change the dipstick reading by well over a quart by where I park.

The 11 quarts in my 12v brings the level to the S on the Safe in my level garage. So allot lower than the full mark and I can imagine someone could over fill it only looking at the dip stick. Im tempted to trim the dip stick tube to get the level mid way between add oil, and full.

 

[Too Tall]

Here's what I cam up with.

Oil pressure sensor is 1/8" npt to 1/4" refrigeration. Then adapter up to 3/8" and to the pump.

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Very innovative rebar, Have anyone ever seen a flow schematic on this engine. It seems your method is fool proof as if you apply pressure at the sensor the oil is taking the same path as the pump would also. Where will you put the suction side? Will that be to your fresh oil jug and you will use the pump for oil change or leave it connected for circulating oil from the crankcase?

 

[rebar]

Very innovative rebar, Have anyone ever seen a flow schematic on this engine. It seems your method is fool proof as if you apply pressure at the sensor the oil is taking the same path as the pump would also. Where will you put the suction side? Will that be to your fresh oil jug and you will use the pump for oil change or leave it connected for circulating oil from the crankcase?

Yea I looked the flow schematic. Wouldn't say fool proof, look who your talking to..:-laf

The hot ticket would have been a gauge on my oil line with a tee. Then I could have pumped it a moment before the first crank. Even after I pumped up the oil gallery I didn't get pressure while cranking three times for 8 seconds purging fuel lines. But popped up to 50 + as soon as it started.

Yes I pulled from fresh oil. Not the EOS. But it would be cool to have a permanent prelube system. You would have to weld on a nipple or threaded fitting to the pan to a pump and the Tee I didnt have for the oil pressure sensor.

It runs great.

 

[Camperman]

Many thoughts on this. When I changed the oil for the 1st time in my 2012, I drained for 45 minutes to an hour. Then added 3 gallons. When I check cold the next morning it was a bit above the full mark. I called the dealer, spoke to the service Mgr., and was told this. When adding the oil, pre-fill with one quart, then add 10 more for a total of 11 quarts. Start truck, let run a bit, shut down, and re-check in 15-20 minutes. I then added 1/2 quart more, and the level was at the full mark. I have been doing this since, and have zero issues. The 2013 & up trucks do NOT have the oil dilution that the level grows on the stick like pre DEF trucks have, IIRC.

 

[gsbrockman]

The 2013 & up trucks do NOT have the oil dilution that the level grows on the stick like pre DEF trucks have, IIRC.

With a proper drain (45 to 60 minutes as camperman) I've ALWAYS been good at 12 quarts on any HPCR (5.9L or 6.7L). I don't think 16 ozs. is going to be a deal breaker in any event......short of the time wasted in checking and re-checking the oil level by starting out at 10+1 then 10+1+.5....JMHO though.

 

[Too Tall]

On the two changes that I've done, I dump all 3 gallons and it's been right at the top of the full mark every time I've checked it. I don't milk every last drop out of the jugs however.