Archived Oil Loss! What to do?

[fest3er]

Originally posted by bmcwilliams
I'm confused.

Amsoil is not API rated? I didn't know that. What are the ramifications of that?

What oil should I use, and how do you prove self maintenance?

Receipts etc?

Thanks

It is very true. Amsoil diesel engine lube is not API certified. But then, *no* diesel engine lube is API certified. API certification applies strictly to gasoline engine lubes.

On the other hand, Amsoil diesel engine lube meets or exceeds API specifications, which is all that is required for the Cummins engine, API-wise.

But let us not turn this into another gule oil thread.

The problem is your engine ran without lube for a short while. I'd be willing to bet the Amsoil offered some amount of protection during this time.

But the only way to find out for sure is to have the engine partially disassembled and inspected. Unless you *know* your Dodge dealer has darn good mechanics, you will likely be better off going to a Cummins shop.

But do stop by your dealer and inquire about warranty, etc. , being honest about what happened. While they might not cover repairs under warranty, they *might* allow you a reasonable discount on parts. Of course, if you have a rotten dealer, you should expect the worst anyway.

Good luck!

Fest3er

 

[Whitmore]

I would think that the first thing to fail from lack of oil would be the turbo, Look at it and put a mic on it to check your thrust play, seams also to me that the use of syn oil would have helped you maybe dodge a bullet .



keep us posted on what you find out.



cheers, Kevin

 

[fredflinstone]

I also applaud your personal feelings of resposibility and only wish that half the other people on the road had the berries to stand up and be responsible instead of screwing the next guy to purchase thier vehicle. And I would personaly just drop the pan and roll new main and rod bearings into the lower end , and check the cam followers if it was my truck. In the shop we change bearings in older engines all the time and it works great , as a matter of fact I have a first gen dually that I'm putting a new shortblock in that has about 300 thousand miles and was in a medium duty truck that I'm going to roll new bearing into again and use. These engines are almost indestructable as long as you keep good bearings in them. Good luck and I applaud you!!! Seth

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by bmcwilliams







Installed a new drain plug with a magnet on it. . feeling real smug.



Sure enough, the damn drain plug had worked completely OUT and was hanging from the crankcase.



While I blame myself for sloppiness with the plug, the original plug went back on and it's stayin'!

Sounds like Geno's need to rethink selling these plugs. I have read several threads where they are not performing as advertised.

 

[Sled Puller]

The stock plugs have been known to crack on the shoulder, they are not full proof.





The Amsoil MAY have saved your butt, its superoir lubricating qualitys would have stuck around a bit longer than the old dino oils. In a situation like that, every second counts.



Take an oil sample as soon as you can. A set of bearings is no big deal to a good shop, a Dodge dealership is not a good shop!



If any dealership trys to mess with you for running Amsoil, get it in writing, then contact Amsoil. They will take care of it.

 

[Sled Puller]

Here is another thread about plugs:





https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=153919#post153919



The majority have no problems, but a few have had trouble with the stockers.

 

[Jetson]

I have had 2 Ford 300 CI inline sixes that I replaced rod and main bearings on with the block still in the frame. The last one had had low oil pressure and a main bearing knock on startup since it was new. At 150,000 miles I put a new oil pump and . 001 oversize bearings in it. It had better oil pressure than new and is doing fine 30,000 miles later. I agree with letting Cummins check it. A GOOD mechanic can do wonders.

 

[redram]

Originally posted by bmcwilliams

I'm confused.



Amsoil is not API rated? I didn't know that. What are the ramifications of that?



What oil should I use, and how do you prove self maintenance?



Receipts etc?



Thanks

Here is a link to the API oils that Amsoil has licensed.



http://www.api.org/cgi-bin/eolcs_li.cgi?n=amsoil



If you want to look at other oils just change the name at the end of the link.

 

[redram]

Originally posted by fest3er

It is very true. Amsoil diesel engine lube is not API certified. But then, *no* diesel engine lube is API certified. API certification applies strictly to gasoline engine lubes.



On the other hand, Amsoil diesel engine lube meets or exceeds API specifications, which is all that is required for the Cummins engine, API-wise.



Huh? Another lubrication "expert" with mis-information.



Here's a link to the API and there are a ton of diesel oil's that are API Licensed????

http://www.api.org/cgi-bin/eolcs_li.cgi?n=royal + purple

http://www.api.org/cgi-bin/eolcs_li.cgi?n=mobil

Hell, even your own product line that you sell has API Licensed oils

http://www.api.org/cgi-bin/eolcs_li.cgi?n=amsoil

 

[Pit Bull]

Here is a good one that is Licensed, if you can afford it



Schedule A - License Agreement

The Certification Marks referred to and licensed under the agreement between API and ExxonMobil Lubricants & Petroleum Specialties Co. (Mobil), Fairfax, VA 22037 THE UNITED STATES are as follows:





API Service Symbol



Licensee is authorized to display the API Service Symbol on the following products:

Energy Conserving may be displayed only on products noted with an asterisk (*).

BRAND NAME SAE VISCOSITY GRADE SERVICE CATEGORY

DELVAC 1 5W-40 CF,CF-4,CG-4,CH-4/SJ

 

[fest3er]

Let's move the API discussion to another thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59410

It doesn't belong here.

Fest3er

 

[Neibe]

Do the right thing don't trade it in for some poor soul to get a hold of it and get a sour mouth about our beloved trucks. If you know you caused the problem take it on the chin and fix it right. I'm not trying to be on a soapbox but nobody wants to take responsiblity anymore for there actions.

 

[kevinthompson]

You might check to see how much an underhaul costs. That may take care of the damage. Not cost an arm and a leg. Good Luck

 

[bombero]

The ticking could be a main or rod bearing. i would pull the pan and put in a set of bearings. this wouldnt be too expensive. also i seem to remember someone having a similar problem and their auto insurance covered it. Worth a try