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oil overflow bottle?

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VB/TC questions

Diesel fuel quality

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The bottle is right in front of the engine attached to the lower part of the timing cover. It makes a mess of everything up front. My truck has only 12K mi. and from the venting of the oil vapors and any dirt or dust, it is already caking up. The cooling fan blows it all over. The only benefit is that it keeps the accessory belt from making that little squeak when you shut it down. Chris
 
I took my bottle out and just ran a longer legth of 3/4" heater hose straight down to the ground and cut it off level with the frame. Absolutley no more oil mess and nothing to empty out every oil change. What little oil that drips out at a time is taken away by the wind.
 
I rerouted mine as well, simply added a length of hose down to in front of the front end. Now a question... . heater hose, which I used, is not chemically resistent to oil. Over time this portion will become ruined, and you'll have to change it... easy to do. However, over time, I wonder what the bottom of our vehicles will look like as they start to drip oil under them and all over the driveway's etc. Seems like a terrible system. . there must be a better way to fix this. I was wondering about attaching the bottle to a lower area, in front of the bumper mount or someplace, and putting paper towling or rags into the bottle so the oil would be absorbed in the cloth and then one can change that very easy. In fact - I think this may work where it's presently located, except it's a *__*(& to get at..... !!!
 
I have heard a couple of options...

is it better to run the hose straight down or back and behind the cab?

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2001 3/4 ton driftwood 24 valve HO 6 speed; straight piped, silencer ring out, Glasstight cab high shell, Practical Solutions high idle kit,
Alpine CD player, Kenwood 750 watt amp, 2 10"
JL subwoofers custom truck box behind the seat.
Jason
 
I've been meaning to do this for the last 20,000 miles, but I have a question for those of you who have already done it. How do you connect the new hose to the old hose?
 
I have had the hose dumping straight down for over 10k miles. Not a drop of oil under my truck anywhere on the frame. As far as the hose not being resistant to oil, thats true but since it is in a 0 pressure enviornment, it should last at least 5 years. And then all you need is 5 minutes and $2. 00 in hose and your good to go for another 5 years.
 
To connect the new hose to the old hose i bought a plastic 3/4" to 3/4" barbed hose connector at Home Depot. As far as routing it to the back of the cab, i would not want to have any bends in the hose where oil could pool as possibly block the vent.
 
I have a question that has been addressed, but I still don't have an answer. I have a 2001 ETH. My Y2K had a mess up front made from the blow-by. My '01 is as clean as a whistle up front, but it's leaking around the rear of the oil pan (as far as I can tell), and is making a mess on the bottom of the transmission. Could the bottle be the cause of this? Is the bottle near the rear of engine on the '01's? I've looked up there and couldn't see any bottle, but I haven't spent much time looking.
Thanks guys.

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Shane Oler
'01 2500 4X4 QC, ETH/DEE, Dark Garnet/Camel, ISSPRO Pyro (pre-turbo)and Boost Pillar mount, PE EZ, Cobra CB w/ Dual 4' Firestik II's, 4" DD exhaust, K&N, BIG-O 255/85R16 AT's, Custom stereo (nothing stock), Genuine Steel* Grill gaurd and nerf bars, 20K Reese 5er hitch

Other: '70 Olds Vista Cruiser 455 (future resto project)
30' Sandpiper 5er Super Slide bunkhouse(about 10k lbs. )
 
Soler,

On my '01 the blow by bottle was mounted on the front of the motor about half way down on the driver's side. I assume your's would be the same. Mine never really made a mess but removing it and running a new hose down under the windshield washer tank sure made the oil smell disappear. I like this method better due to the possibility of moisture freezing in the longer hose if ran back any further.

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2001 Med. Bronze H. O. 6Sp 2500 SLT 4x4 Quad Cab LWB, 4 wheel discs, 3. 54, Trailer Tow & Camper Package
Matt
 
SOLER, if you open the hood and look straight down, behind the fan blades, you will see the bottle (black). There is a huge amount of oily vapor that comes down out of the breather tube and into the bottle. The problem is that the fan blades suck the vapor that exits the bottle and push it all over your engine. Try this, buy a couple of feet of 3/4" heater hose and a 3/4 to 3/4 barbed adapter. Take off the breather bottle and attach the adapter and the length of hose to the breather tube and zip tie it off at the track bar, directly below the fan. Be sure to keep it tight to the block, away from the fan blades. Dry off the oil pan and see if the leak is still there after a test ride. Are you losing any oil ? Seems like a long shot that the breather bottle is depositing the oil on the pan, I would think that most of the vapor would be pushed more upward, but give it a try, assuming that you have no measurable oil lose.

Scott W.

White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro,boost and oil temp gauges,SPA fuel pressure and temp. gauge,Edge EZ,Psychotty air,Bully Dog stage III injectors,ATS 3 piece manifold,HX40 turbo,4" BD exhaust,4" BD E-brake,McLeod clutch,Mallory 4150 lift pump,Mag-Hytec rear,Go-Rhino grill guard,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!! I love the smell of diesel in the morning, it reminds me of... . VICTORY !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A>
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089604" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>THE SAINTS</font></A>
 
This is the hose that I installed. I hope that it will help on the pukeing problem. it ends where you see it by the end of the valve cover.
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2001 QC 2500 4x4 bronze W/two tone Driftwood, 24valve HO 6sp. Westin side bars, fender flares, Rancho RSX off-road shocks, Spray on bedliner, Leer shell Painted to match with LED marker lights, Bf Goodrich AT Tires. Bed rug inside shell W/aux marine deep cycle batt for lights, etc. M Brolins' CB mount.
Name of rig is "big bronze Brute"
 
UPDATE...
I found a place to make an extreme angle dowward and the hose you see above on the post didn't help, it not only puked oil out the hose to the rear, but it also put some out in the front somewhere. I have to find out where it is coming from so I can fix it but this fix here did ok for normal driving

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2001 QC 2500 4x4 bronze W/two tone Driftwood, 24valve HO 6sp. Westin side bars, fender flares, Rancho RSX off-road shocks, Spray on bedliner, Leer shell Painted to match with LED marker lights, Bf Goodrich AT Tires. Bed rug inside shell W/aux marine deep cycle batt for lights, etc. M Brolins' CB mount.
Name of rig is "big bronze Brute"
 
Guys,
If you are never going to go extreme off-roading, like extreme up and down angles, then the mod of tube straight down or to the back of cab is all well and good. I went down to moab and went down a steep slickrock and the oils sloshed up into the puke tube and lost 2 quarts of oil promptly. I fixed this problem(I hope) by taking a heater hose and routing it UP and back under the top rad. hose and back along the valve cover toward the firewall and end there. There is only one time I have smelled a oil smell but mostly not.
Now If I go down a steep hill the oil will go up into the hose and when level again, drain back to the pan.
can show pics if needed
any other ideas for this kind of fix?
Eric

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2001 QC 2500 4x4 bronze W/two tone Driftwood, 24valve HO 6sp. Westin side bars, fender flares, Rancho RSX off-road shocks, Spray on bedliner, Leer shell Painted to match with LED marker lights, Bf Goodrich AT Tires. Bed rug inside shell W/aux marine deep cycle batt for lights, etc. M Brolins' CB mount.
Name of rig is "big bronze Brute"
 
ERIC
I think you may have done something like I did that you may wish to rethink. The routing up and over looks like a problem from what others have indicated in the past. As I remember, there were concerns that restrictions to this hose could result in bown engine seals. I ran my bottle and hose all the way back and hooked it onto the skidplate, but after reading about the seal problem, I removed all that and have it dumping straight down. I would do a search for oil bottle, several months back.....
 
I believe Eric is trying to stop the engine from puking oil through the tube at extreme grades, beyond 17%. Correct me if I'm wrong. I have seen the ad here for the enclosed cranckcase system, not for me but maybe it would be worth a look into if you off-road alot on extreme grades. Any comments ?

Soler, any updates on that "leak" ?
Scott W.

[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 04-28-2001). ]
 
The closed crankcase system you mention is the Walker "Airsep". They do work and will eliminate the breather bottle setup. But i cant justify the expense. I just routed my tube straight down to the ground. Cost me 5 bucks and there is nothing else i need. Might be a good idea though for people who dont want any oil going airborne though. I have installed them on boats before, nice product.
 
Thanx for the suggestions, guys. The only update so far is that there is no further leakage. I have done nothing to it, it just stopped leaking. There is still a little mess, as I haven't cleaned it since I posted last. It leaked a little, then stopped. I wonder if it was due to extreme duty when I was pulling a 5er on some steep grades and such. I mean, I was REALLY working it. Not lugging or abusing, just REALLY working it. I'll take a look again on Monday and let y'all know.

SOLER
 
Soler I talked to a Cunnins REP a few weeks ago about this problem. He told me that the company does not recomend changing the design. If you live in a cold climate during winter months and you have changed the tube direction up or to far away from the engine the vapor may freeze and plug the tube up. This is what I did. I took an empty vitamin bottle the large one a day kind and put that in it's place. drilled the hole in the cap and a couple near the top. See the problem with the original is that the holes on it are to low to the bottom of the bottle. Now it works just fine. P. D 01 SLT EXTENDED CAB SHORT BED DRIFTWOOD A. R. E Z CAP RHINO LINER RUNNING BOARDS B&D PLUG N POWER AND ALOT MORE.
 
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