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Oil pan plug - 'nother question

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Raffle

Fuel & Air Saver

I'm going to order another oil pan plug tomorrow.

Should I go w/ heavy duty that has the magnet tip and uses a 9/16 socket or the 'fonger touch'?



I currently have the heavy duty and the shoulders have just about rounded off - now probably my fault. I had been using a 12 point socket as opposed to a 6 point.



I have one of the 'finger touch' plugs on the small block in our boat, but I'm concerned about the valve dropping down the one inch below the pan.

The truck is a 2wd and don't go off road, but I'm still concerned about the valve hitting something and getting snapped off 'should' I ever hit or go over something.



Go w/ the 9/16th from Geno's again and just be more diligent when removing and be be sure to use a 6 point socket?

Go w/ the 'Finger Touch'?



The 'EZ Change' doesn't seem to thrill me for some reason and I also don't like the $39. 00 + the cost of a 30mm socket to install it along w/ 'needing' the proporiatory drain tube.



Thoughts???
 
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I did the EZ Change for better clearance, very little exposue to road debris, and the cap screws on with an o-ring seal. Yes you do need the drain tube metal screw on, the tube part is common stock. The metal screw on lifts the spring loaded valve. Get an extra drain tube?



Bob Weis



I had a problem with a regular drain plug on a ferd I had. I changed oil so many times (8 times a year and had the car 10 years) we had to install an oversized drain plug to keep it from leaking.
 
My vote is for the finger touch. I have one on my truck and it works great. It does stick down about an inch below the pan but is still above the front axle. If I was rock crawling or driving through heavy brush I would be worried but since my truck is a pavement princess I'm not concerned.
 
Have had the finger touch on for 7 years. . No drips and I off road and no snags. . I tow heavy and no problems... get it, you wont be sorry
 
Where can you get a finger touch valve? Mine drips and I am tired of tinkering with it and tired of the dripping. That is the only place my truck leaks oil and it makes a mess on the underside of the truck.
 
Just installed mine the other day. The little lever is extrememly stiff and I doubt I'll be able to move it w/o a pliers. Are they supposed to be that stiff? It's the rotation that it doesn't like. The spring tension is fine. I bought the one from Geno's (fumoto?)

I picked the perfect change to do it. For some reason the oil hung on to the drain pan and made a wide spread as it headed to the catch pan. Made a mess... . moreso than usua.
 
Just installed mine the other day. The little lever is extrememly stiff and I doubt I'll be able to move it w/o a pliers. Are they supposed to be that stiff? It's the rotation that it doesn't like. The spring tension is fine. I bought the one from Geno's (fumoto?)



I picked the perfect change to do it. For some reason the oil hung on to the drain pan and made a wide spread as it headed to the catch pan. Made a mess... . moreso than usua.



It's difficult to move the first time. The oil draining lubricates the lever, and it's much easier after that.
 
Both my dad and I run Fumotos... he fractured his OE plug a while back.



I think he has over 150k on his Fumoto (at 5k OCIs). I've had mine in since the truck was new... neither have ever given any trouble. They make oil changes a breeze.



steved
 
Both my dad and I run Fumotos... he fractured his OE plug a while back.



I think he has over 150k on his Fumoto (at 5k OCIs). I've had mine in since the truck was new... neither have ever given any trouble. They make oil changes a breeze.



steved



I put one on at my last oil change. I clearly over tightened it and split the washer which caused a slow drip. I put the old plug back in the next morning when I noticed the drip. How tight did you install your valve? I'm gonna order a new washer and install at my next oil change and don't want to crack another washer, but I don't want the thing to vibrate out either.
 
A few years ago, when I smashed my oil pan, I bought a new oil pan and drain plug from the dealer.

At that time, it was a new updated oil drain plug at the dealer. Uses a very large rubber washer with a shoulder to the bolt/plug.

The key point is that It has a much lower spec level then all others (stock or aftermarket) that I've tried before.

I posted about it here back then.

It's never leaked, came loose or anything. Been working great.

I do use a torque wrench on it every time, and with doing 2-3 oil changes a year since, it's in great condition.

It's very flush, and uses a 3/8 drive to get it out.
 
Sorry for the late follow-up post, but...

Diane, company owner for the orig. plug from Genos I had, contacted me inquiring about my problem.

I mentioned the same as here in the post that I had probably been careless but she was absolutely concerned and sent a new replacement at no charge.



EXCELLENT customer service. I was not looking for a freebie, but that was much appreciated. It's ALWAYS nice dealing with someone or someplace with this kind of character. I'm sure this is just 'one' reason Geno's has chosen to carry their oil pan plug.



Diane - Thanks and sorry for not posting this sooner. Thanks again.
 
Another quick drain is the Femco plugs system. See FEMCO Draintechnology, responsible oil draining I not sure who carrries them in you neighbourhood but our local Cummins dist carries them up here. I have used one on my V8 Dodge for years. It drains slower than stock but that gives me time to do a grease job. It comes in a low profile as well. Shadrach
 
Don't quite trust that design, particles can get trapped between the o-ring and seat allowing a leak.







I thought this too, but if you think about it, you shouldn't have any stray particles floating around in your enclosed and filtered system... shouldn't really be a problem... key word here is "shouldn't".



steved
 
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