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Oil Sending Unit Removal

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Can anyone tell me what hex size is the oil sending unit? I’ve tried both fraction metric but nothing seems to fit right. Is there a special Dodge tool to remove this thing? Any trick I should know beforehand? Thanks.
 
it'll be a metric size of some sort. . use a 6 point and you will be good even if a little sloppy. .

why are you changing the oil pressure switch? [threads are m14x1. 5 fyi]
 
Man, I’ve used all the Snap On metric and fraction sockets I have but none fits just right. It is either a little too lose or will not fir at all. I’m tying to access it from the top so maybe that is the problem…lack of room. I will remove the tire and go from the side.



I am trying to put a T fitting to install a Westach pressure switch. Is there and easier place to tap the oil pressure?
 
I just measured the spare one I have. 1-1/16 fits perfectly. You need a deep socket. And I think it has to be 6-point, because it's not a hex... it's a weird thing. See photo attached. There are 6 flats.



Measures 1. 064" across the flats.



Ryan
 
I just measured the spare one I have. 1-1/16 fits perfectly. You need a deep socket. And I think it has to be 6-point, because it's not a hex... it's a weird thing. See photo attached. There are 6 flats.



Measures 1. 064" across the flats.



Ryan



There are two 1/8" NPT ports right on top of the oil filter mount. Either one of them will do the job.



Bob



Ryan,

Thanks for the pic and the measurement of the sending unit. The 6 point must be the problem. I used a 12 point 1-1/16 deep socket and somehow it did not fit. I do have a set of 6 points so I’ll try that.



There are two 1/8" NPT ports right on top of the oil filter mount. Either one of them will do the job.



Bob,

I’ve used the one on the very top of the filter for my Amsoil bypass filter. I did not notice another port? Where is it located in relation to the one on the very top of the filter?



So the threads are m14x1. 5 on this? I thought this was a 1/8” NPT but from looking at Ryan’s pic it looks like a straight thread.





J.
 
So the threads are m14x1. 5 on this? I thought this was a 1/8” NPT but from looking at Ryan's pic it looks like a straight thread.

Yes, as Nick said it's M14x1. 5 straight, so you need an o-ring.

Nick has one hooked into one of the other ports using a copper sealing washer. I tried that, but couldn't make it not leak.

It's true there are 2 ports atop the oil filter, but one of them is completely blocked by a coolant line that runs over it. It's a shame, because I'd really like to be able to use that port. If only someone made an adaptor to re-route that coolant line out of the way.

Ryan
 
i had thought i had an oil leak from my fitting at the block, but it turned out to be a failed mechanical gauge [i run a 4" mechanical gauge under hood] and the gauge filled with oil and weeped down my line to the block. i washed it all down and it doesn't seem to be weeping/leaking at all now with a new gauge installed.

i am using a copper washer, but i won't do that again. i did put some thread goop on the m10x1. 0 threads. i am good with copper washers on a courser thread, but a m10x1. 0 is very fine. it felt like i was going to strip the block before i could get a good snug seal on the washer. . next time around, i will run an o-ring [the block is cut with a chamfer] or a bonded sealing washer.

there are 4 ports on the left side of the engine for tapping into oil pressure. 2 m10x1. 0 and 2 m14x1. 5. one 10mm one is above the ecm, the other is behind the cp3. the 14mm's are in use or blocked. one is where the factory switch is, the other is hidden behind the fuel filter mounting bracket [you can see it from above if you look carefully]
 
there are 4 ports on the left side of the engine for tapping into oil pressure. 2 m10x1. 0 and 2 m14x1. 5. one 10mm one is above the ecm, the other is behind the cp3. the 14mm's are in use or blocked. one is where the factory switch is, the other is hidden behind the fuel filter mounting bracket [you can see it from above if you look carefully]



Nick,



Is the one m10X1. 0 right above ECM plug B (furthest from the radiator)? I think I see it. It is removed by an Allen wrench correct? I'll have to use than then. It looks like it is in the same plane as the oil sending unit so it is probably tapping the same oil passage way. Thanks a lot for all you guys knowledge. :D





J.
 
Is the one m10X1. 0 right above ECM plug B (furthest from the radiator)? I think I see it. It is removed by an Allen wrench correct? I'll have to use than then. It looks like it is in the same plane as the oil sending unit so it is probably tapping the same oil passage way. Thanks a lot for all you guys knowledge. :D



Yes, that plug you're referencing is M10x1, however I doubt you'll actually be able to reach it. It's sitting right behind the wiring harness for ECM plug B.



Just to the left of that one, however, there's another M10x1 that is accessible. At least, I think it's the most accessible one among the whole lot. And even at that, it's not that accessible. :rolleyes:



All 4 of these are fed from the main oil rifle cast into the block. Do be careful not to introduce any contaminants when you're working on them.



It uses an allen head, but I can't recall what size. I think it's 8mm, but don't quote me on that.



Ryan
 
5mm is the allen key needed to take out the small plugs. . i have had both out. when i tapped into the engine for oil pressure signal, i had planned on taking the signal from the plug right behind the cp3, but the fittings i have on the hose i had was too bulky. it touched the fca on the cp3. if i had used something slimmer like a grease gun hose, it would have worked good [but i had a m10 to 1/8" npt adapter, and on top of that, i had a 1/8" npt to -4 jic. . ] so i have my signal coming off the port above the ecm. . i did all my work from above. .
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5mm is the allen key needed to take out the small plugs. . i have had both out. when i tapped into the engine for oil pressure signal, i had planned on taking the signal from the plug right behind the cp3, but the fittings i have on the hose i had was too bulky. it touched the fca on the cp3. if i had used something slimmer like a grease gun hose, it would have worked good [but i had a m10 to 1/8" npt adapter, and on top of that, i had a 1/8" npt to -4 jic. . ] so i have my signal coming off the port above the ecm. . i did all my work from above. .

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Wow that is a Jungle. I think the one above the EMC plug B is clear. I will use that one.
 
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I did not read through all the posts , just skimmed to see if there was an answer that I was thinking .
I bought a few different oil pressure sensor tools from Snap On , as the sockets go there are a few issues , a normal deep socket will not work because of a couple reasons , one is that there is not enough metal cut away on the inside to pass the plastic part of the sensor , then the other is that there are rounded corners on the sensor - the sockets made for these hace the rounded corners .
 
I did not read through all the posts , just skimmed to see if there was an answer that I was thinking .

I bought a few different oil pressure sensor tools from Snap On , as the sockets go there are a few issues , a normal deep socket will not work because of a couple reasons , one is that there is not enough metal cut away on the inside to pass the plastic part of the sensor , then the other is that there are rounded corners on the sensor - the sockets made for these hace the rounded corners .



Do you have the Snap On P/N to remove the sensor? Looks like you have a 94; are they the same as my 06?
 
a normal deep socket will not work because of a couple reasons , one is that there is not enough metal cut away on the inside to pass the plastic part of the sensor ,



My run-of-the-mill Craftsman 1-1/16" deep socket fits fine.



Certainly nothing special about Craftsman sockets.



Ryan
 
You would need to find a Snap On truck or get a # from there site , they will mail order .
One of the differences between Craftsman & Snap On is that Craftsman leaves metal out to save a penny , Snap On leaves the metal in to make it better , I'm not into the tool wars , but you just need to work every day with whats available to know the difference , I spend the extra money because it makes for a better faster job , if you do not work with your tools for a living then its just about stuff that only matters to the buyer .
 
You would need to find a Snap On truck or get a # from there site , they will mail order .

One of the differences between Craftsman & Snap On is that Craftsman leaves metal out to save a penny , Snap On leaves the metal in to make it better , I'm not into the tool wars , but you just need to work every day with whats available to know the difference , I spend the extra money because it makes for a better faster job , if you do not work with your tools for a living then its just about stuff that only matters to the buyer .



I agree that's why I use nothing but Snap On. I have an account with them so I can order whatever I need but I do need the correct P/N to order. If you have it handy that would be great... it saves me time from searching their site.
 
Hijack!

but you just need to work every day with whats available to know the difference , I spend the extra money because it makes for a better faster job , if you do not work with your tools for a living then its just about stuff that only matters to the buyer .



You're right, Snap-On is certainly superior to Craftsman. As I get older I realize the importance of buying high quality tools. If I had to buy my sockets all over, I'd probably go with Armstrong.



Sure is expensive, though!



Ryan
 
i get by with my crappy westward sockets at work pretty well. . and they get abused [last one i broke was a 7/8" deep chrome on an impact gun]

i do have a few proto's and i like them very much. . sadly, they are about the same $$$ as $napon
 
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