Oil smell

[Mark@TST Products]

We extended the length of the blowby hose about 8-10 inches on our '01 eth dee and moved the blowby bottle below the fan. This solved the in-cab oder problem on our truck.

 

[Bigsaint]

I agree with Mark@TST. Mine was originally moved all the way back by the transmission, too long if you live in freezing temps. By just moving the bottle below the fan, your problem will be solved with no concern over the re-route freezing and blowing all of your seals in the engine. I did not re-attach my bottle yet, I probably won't.

Scott W.

 

[Phil Stuart]

I myself couldn't handle the smell let alone the nice oily sheen that was on every suspension part and the engine. Sure does make a mess! Off went the pill bottle!Ran hose along underside,been happy ever since #ad


Phil

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`01 2500,4x4,QC,LB,ETC,5 spd(DDX),HDtransfer case(DHG)
3. 55 LSD,Tow Pkg. ,Snow plow pkg. ,Forest Green PC,Mopar alum. side steps,Mopar mud flaps with Cummins logo,Mist grey seat covers,Tekonsha brake controller,Hadley air horns,Pacbrake.
Built in St. Louis
THE BIG GREEN MACHINE

Phil Stuart

 

[sdalton]

I too went with the hose. It only cost about $15 in parts from home depot. Make sure you get the 3/4 inch hose(inner diameter connection) and 3/4 connecters. I also bought a turndown elbo for the end, so the gasses will be blown straight to the ground. Also buy about 20 zip ties. They dont have to be the big ones, you can tie several together to increase the length. Then go out and wash the engine at one of the quarter spray wash places and you will have a new looking engine from then on. I have 2000 miles on this setup, and wish I had done it from the start. No oil on the engine, and no oil under the truck. Even where the hose dumps the gasses out. My hose ends just before the gas tank.

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Y2K, 2500, 4x2, QC, 3. 54 LSD, Auto, patriot blue. K&N, silencer ring put back in. 17000 miles as of 3-01-01. best milage:28. 5 mpg. transmission reflashed

 

[Ray J]

Originally posted by Bigsaint:
I agree with Mark@TST. Mine was originally moved all the way back by the transmission, too long if you live in freezing temps. By just moving the bottle below the fan, your problem will be solved with no concern over the re-route freezing and blowing all of your seals in the engine. I did not re-attach my bottle yet, I probably won't.

I just did mine the other day. Took the hose/bottle assembly completly off but retained the spring clamp to use on the 3/4" heater hose. Just ran it behind the washer bottle and then straight down over the stabilizer bar with about 3" overhang. Only used one tie... . to the upper radiator hose to keep bend in new blow-by hose from collapsing. Short sweet and simple.

Grin, on another note... . while I was under there I did notice one grease fitting. Just had an L-O-F last week but this fitting showed no sign of grease at all. It took 7 full pumps from a greasegun to get the lube to show. Want to bet that it wasn't touched in 2 L-O-F's? LOL

Scott W.

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01 2500 Sport, QC, LWB, Auto, 4. 10, 4x4, Camper Pkg, Tow Pkg, Geno's muffler eliminator pipe, rest is stock for now

 

[Bigsaint]

Ray J... not sure what your trying to say #ad
You have a quote from me, first paragraph, intermixed with quotes from other members.

Scott W.

 

[John]

I agree with Bigsaint. I extended the breather (blow-by) hose on my Ram last Summer, carefully routing it with a progressively downward bias, avoiding ANY dips in the hose or sharp bends etc. The end of my breather hose terminated just in front of the fuel tank. After many subsequent inspections of my "enhanced" system, all looked ok. I checked it again the other day (it had been several months since my last system check) and discovered much of the hose was coated with a gray, light grease type substance, progressively having a higher percentage of buildup the nearer the termination point. Well, scrap plan B. I decided to remove most of the extension hose, terminating the hose just behind the steering stabilizer... for now until I come up with a better plan (or not). Keep in mind I live in Western Washington where we see only a handful of days in the teens each year (most of the Winter the temps. hover around 28-40 degrees F. at night). BTW, I experienced no seal failures or oil leaks.

I was always wondering whether extending the breather hose out that far was a good idea... now I know.

..... live and learn #ad


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John Treibel
'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps and accs. , Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, SPA gauges (3), Dynamat, '00 Sport grille and headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake, Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass, Optima Yellow Tops, DD3s and DD TTPM, Aeroquip AQP braided s/s fuel hoses, Banks High-Ram intake manifold and 14 cm2 turbine housing w/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , DTT 93% TC, DTT custom tuned VB, BD modified trans. front pump (enhanced by DTT), Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

NRA Life (Patron) member

 

[Ray J]

Bigsaint, I'm not sure what happened either. Maybe it was where I started typing? Have no idea how another quote got in there... did not quote more than one. Sorry for any confusion.

Originally posted by Bigsaint:
Ray J... not sure what your trying to say #ad
You have a quote from me, first paragraph, intermixed with quotes from other members.

Scott W.

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01 2500 Sport, QC, LWB, Auto, 4. 10, 4x4, Camper Pkg, Tow Pkg, Geno's muffler eliminator pipe, rest is stock for now

 

[RKohn]

RezRockit,

How about posting those instructions from Geno's?



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Y2K Red Stealth Sport 2500 4X4 QC SLT+, 5-spd, 3. 54 anti-spin, 265-75-16 LTX’s (There ain’t no such thing as options, cause ya gotta have it all, including: DC’s dead cow/vinyl interior and don’t stop anti-lock brakes. ) Stock, but not for long. Oops, too late. What silencer ring? (More fun than my 98 SST)

 

[RezRockit]

Originally posted by RKohn:
RezRockit,

How about posting those instructions from Geno's?

RKohn, i will but it will be later today (sat. ). i saved it on another pc so i'll have to send it to this one, then try and cut and paste. i hope it's possible to copy from email provider and paste to forum reply.

 

[Cummnzpowr]

heck, u guys are wierd... . that smell gives me a woooooody!... course the females don't like it. . "eww your truck smells like crude oil man" ... even after an oil change on my ol' 93' still does it

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Greg's 1993 D250 4x2. . 5-speed. . extended cab. . longbed. . bright white. . tinted windows. . 4-inch stack through bed. . K&N air filter. . holes in air box... Tweaked pump... . PW injectors... 12CM housing... Isspro Pyro &Boost guages. . "The Phantom"

 

[Fireman Dave]

I think the brand of oil is also a factor. I just put Rotella in it for the first time last night. Now, for the first time, I have the oil smell. It's not too bad, though. I clean the bottle every oil change. This time the stuff in it was watery. It seemed like it was thicker previously. 10,000 miles on the truck.

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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LWB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; 265s; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Travel Convenience Group; Cab Clearance Lamps; Forest Green

 

[hammong]

My biggest gripe with the blow-by bottle isn't the smell, but the extra oil that comes out of it and gets all over the suspension and front of the engine. I hope that cleaning the bottle more regularly will stop the accumulation - but all this talk of relocating/removing may convince me yet!

Greg

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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger.

http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!

Not Bombed yet!

 

[RezRockit]

RKohn and others: got the instructions. sorry for the delay. It's going to be a rather long post. From Geno's:

Crankcase Breather Vent Tube Catch-All Update
Updated: January 29, 2001

This product is no longer available through Geno’s Garage, but feel free to use your own resources to build your own. Product liability (if the hose is pinched/improperly installed, crankcase pressure will cause a seal to rupture) is the reason we no longer sell the kit.
The following is the bill of materials and the Geno’s Garage instructions which were written after someone on the Geno’s Garage staff spent a fair amount of time researching, tinkering and testing.

o 1 - Summit Racing Catch-all part number SUM-G1504, price $29. 99 + shipping and handling (800) 230-3030
o 3 - ¾” hose clamps
o 1 - 6’ x ¾” heater hose
o 1 - 1’ x ¼” vent tube
o 1 - ¾” x ¾” plastic male coupling (24-valve engines)
o 1 - ¾” x 11/16” brass fitting (12-valve engines)
o 1 - 1” drill bit (to drill the Summit G-1504 to accept the 3/4” x 1” male barb)
o 1 - ¾” x 1” male barb (epoxy into the Summit SUM G-1504 bottle)
o 1 - ¾” x 45-degree turn down (epoxy to the ¾” x 1” male barb)
o Epoxy
With the exception of the Summit Racing Catch-all, most parts can be found at your local hardware store. Finding the 45-degree turn down is important as the crankcase vapors did want to come back out of the breather cap on our test model. You can make a cost-effective, non-critical, choice to use off-the-shelf heater hose. (We’ve provided the Geno’s Garage instructions below).
Installation Instructions:
Your Catch-all can be mounted in any vertical location. Because of its 13” overall length, we chose the front, driver’s side of the plastic fender well to mount the Catch-all.
Note: Inside the Catch-all, the breather fumes are directed 45o downward. Even with the fumes directed downward, experience has proven that the Catch-all breather needs to be vertical or oil will collect/seep out of the breather.
·For access to the fender well, we suggest turning the steering wheel all of way to the left.
·Vertically test fit the Catch-all to the fender well. The top of the breather should be positioned ½” from the bottom of the back/bottom side of the battery box.
·With a ½” clearance at the top, the drain valve should be barely visible under the bottom of the plastic fender well. As there is a small plastic lip at the bottom of the fender well, you will need to cut it off to allow the Catch-all to flush mount to the fender well.
·With the Catch-all in its temporary position, mark the fender well and drill two 3/8” holes (the center line distance between the holes is 3 ½”) through the plastic fender well for mounting.
·For 1998. 5 and up trucks/24-valve applications, attach your existing ¾” breather tube to one side of the male-to-male hose barb. Attach the ¾” hose supplied in the kit to the other side of the barb. Tighten the hose clamps. Test fit and route the ¾” hose to the Catch-all and assembly. Cut hose to length and press on to the hose barb. Tighten the clamp.
·For 1994 – 1998. 5/12-valve applications, the breather tube is 11/16”, an odd size. The transition from the 11/16” breather tube to the ¾” hose supplied in the kit is done with a brass fitting. Insert the fitting into the ¾” hose first as you will have to push/stretch (a soapy solution will help) the hose to insert the fitting. The fitting should slip easily into the 11/16” breather tube. Tighten the clamps. Test fit and route the ¾” hose to the Catch-all assembly. Cut hose to length and press on to the hose barb. Tighten the clamp.
·Install the kit to the fender well with the two 7/16” bolts supplied with the kit.
·Important final note: Double check your routing of the ¾” hose to assure there are no kinks in the hose. Kinks to the hose would not allow for engine breathing and could cause seal leakage.
Maintenance Instructions:
Drain the Catch-all at every oil change. Oil discharge should be minimal. At every other oil change, we suggest you clean the breather using a Simple Green solution and water. As a precaution against a clogged breather, we left a small ¼” vent tube at the top of the breather.
Hope this helps those of you wanting the purchase a kit and those of you wanting to build your own.




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'01 2500 SLT,QC,4x4,ETH/DEE

 

[B. Gill]

Originally posted by bbutler:
My new 2001 3500 HO (delivered 11-00) has an oil smell insside the cab every time I come to a stop. It smells like 90w gear oil? I kwow the transmission is not filled with 90w but it smells just like. The smell is worse when I pull off the freeway and come to a stop on the off ramp.

what you have is not oil smell it is the enamel type coating on the exhaust manifold,when it heats up it begins to give off that smell that you can smell in tha cab i had the same condition that went away after that enamel was kinda burned after about 15000 or so miles,nothing to worry about