OilGuard Install

[PMalin]

The Oilguard/Oilmaster EPS-20 or OM-200 just
came in today. I have seen a few suggestions
on possible locations to hook up the lines
for this. Was wondering if there were some
better locations to make connections that are
not an extreme problem to get to. Dont want
to disrupt flow to the turbo housing, and
are there locations to return oil to either
the valve cover, or pan? What fittings are
needed, or will those that come in the kit
work? I was also considering a small shutoff
valve in the feed line and I dont know if
a flow meter for something like this is
available or not? I notice their little
book, says not to use teflon tape as a
thread sealer, so what is the right thing
to use for this? Suggestions Are appreciated.

2001. 5 4WD Quad Cab.

 

[C Schomer]

The plug on the filter base is safe, they just don't want you to T off of the turbo line. Teflon tape is fine as long as you keep it back from the end of the fitting a thread or two and if you take apart taped fittings, make sure you clean it all out. I used a 1/4" ball valve on the supply line(ahead of any rubber hose)in case anything starts leaking and I'm not prepared to fix it. I got fussy and ran copper tubing wherever hose wasn't necessary for engine movement. Craig

 

[frijole]

CAUTION! Using copper tube is somewhat dangerous. It work hardens due to vibration, and will eventually CRACK. Usually happens at the flare neck with little or no warning, (what else is new). I used a 1/8 mpt 90* street el to get off the oil filter housing, came out with 1/8 brass pipe nipple to a small ball valve (1/4")w/bushing, and then hooked up w/ 1/4 I. D. aeroquip hose, #FC 332-04, as recommended by Oilguard. Mounted the canister under radiator, next to the horns, 45* fittings out of top, routed around turbo discharge line, up on inside fender, and put 1/4" bulkhead fitting into valve cover, just under and to the left of oil fil cap, on side of valve cover,(1/4" thick and flat). That way, I can SEE the oil flow by just pulling the cap and looking down the hole. Hope I helped. #ad


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2K1 auto 4x4 QC dooley--stock as a rock--except for shiney stuff.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

As mentioned by the above member, copper tubing is BAD NEWS. i would feel safer using rubber hose then copper tubing!. It WILL fail, and usually at the worst possible time. Do yourself a favor and spend the $50. 00 for some braided stainless line and AN fittings. You will be much better off.

 

[C Schomer]

The copper is strapped very well! If it's so frail, I better get ready to replace all the copper discharge lines I've installed on vibrating, spring mounted refrigeration compressors(that hit 450psi and turn blue from heat when the condensers plug up)over the last 30 years! NOT! Craig

 

[jmeehan]

Can someone please tell me what an Oilguard is and what it does? I've searched the archives and this is the only post that came up. Thanks.

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ex Ford tech, now driving '01. 5 2500 4X4 QC LB ETH/DEE SLT 3. 54, Patriot Blue

 

[SmokinJoe]

Originally posted by C Schomer:
The copper...

Your engine really shakes a LOT. That vibration will fatigue copper lines. You refrigerator does not shake like your truck...

 

[C Schomer]

I'm not talking about a dinky refrigerator compressor!

 

[PMalin]

Didnt mean to get you guys stirred up over
the applications of copper tubing, but I
will probably not be using any in this
project. I just ordered several feet of the
aeroquip hose, and am considering having
a new oil cap machined out that I could
add a fitting to one side of it, etc. . Or
may go with the Bulkhead connection in
the side of the Valve cover? Have not decided
for sure yet. But thanks for the suggestions.
PMalin

 

[PMalin]

Getting closer to completion. . Had to wait
on some parts to be delivered that were not
included in the kit. Solved the oil return
problem using the amsoil adaptor BP89 I think
it was. Went to a dealership and bought
another oil cap. The fitting and oil cap
were about the same length, so tackled this
in an interesting way. The oil cap is 2
plastic pieces snapped together with several
small clips visible from the bottom side. It's trickey, but pry several of these over
carefully, (used pennies as spacers to help)
and separate the two halves. Drill a hole
in the smaller piece the diameter of the
threaded part. Be sure it's drilled on center. Assembled the BP89 in the small piece
using the o-ring just above the locknut, and
tighten just enough to get a little resistance to turning it, but it will turn.
Now, drill out the larger piece on center
with a good 1 1/8" hole saw. It may be best
to pre-drill with a small bit first. Now the
large piece will fit over the BP89 and snap
it in place, with a little epoxy because the
ratchet plastic is now removed. Looks pretty
good... It was a lot cheaper than having
a special oil cap machined out, which is what
I was about to do. Just a suggestion, if
this helps anyone. #ad

 

[redram]

Installed the large -60 model on my truck - the 2 quart version.

Mounted it to the driver side frame rail next to the NV4500. Tapped holes into the inside vertical wall of the frame for the mounting head of the Oilguard Bypass Filter.
Added an electical conduit hanger on the rear to eliminate any chance of the filter vibrating loose.

This horizontal posisition allows for easy change out without spilling any oil on the frame / engine compartment and it's safely tucked up from any road debris.

Picked up pressurized oil by teeing off of the oil pressure sending unit using 3/8 hydraulic tubing and push on hydraulic fittings.
Ran the return line to the valve cover #1 cylinder. However, I powder coated a set of valve covers that included an industrial version that had an oil fill cap in it. Modified this oil fill cap with a 90 degree NPT fitting after grinding enough of the turning flap to allow to drill and tap for the NPT fitting.
Fittings and hose cost all of $22 from an industrial hydraulic supplier.

Just had my first oil analysis after 12000 miles with the bypass and all looks great.

For those who do not know what an OIlGuard is, check out www.oilguard.com or www.racor.com as the exact same filter is sold by Racor.



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[Ladders]

TTT
OilGuard is having a sale and I dont know when it started or is ending but the prices are REAL gud if anyone is interested.
http://www.oilguard.com/sale.htm


\\BF//

 

[PMalin]

SALE??? Well, maybe it's still on, but when I placed my order, I used the number from the Oilguard website at that time. The number on that webpage was not actively taking orders, and later found had to place the order through a different place. . MTM is the parent company, as I understand and they are most likely taking orders, but not sure if the sale is still active??? You could probably call Shelly at MTM @ 760-967-0892 to place an order.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Go to www.racor.com they have the same thing and Racor is THE name in filtration. I find there stuff on virtually every diesel i work on. Have there filters in my boat and friends too.