Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oilpan plug torque?

[GO 4LO]

Well, I was going to change my oil over to some synthetic 5w40 for wintertime (this'll be my first oilchange since buying the truck in July). The dealer had changed the oil right before I first bought the truck three months ago, but I was going to change it myself this time, like I do on my other cars. Anyway, I went to loosen the plug, and I can't! I had a 1/2" ratchet (~14" long) with the 1/2-to-3/8 adapter and a 3" extension and I can't break it loose! I had to have been putting 150+ ft-lbs of torque on it - enough that I was afraid I might break something.

I called the dealer about it, and the mechanic said they have to be real tight in order to withstand the vibration of the diesel. My questions are:

1. What is the torque spec for this plug?

2. Is it possible that the mechanic put it on this tight straight, or is it probably cross-threaded?

3. Should I just put a cheater bar on it and break 'er loose, or take it back to the dealer and make him do it? I just don't want to break anything...

Thanks.

Chris

 

[snowracer69]

torque-spec is either 35 or 45 ft-lbs. Not much at all. Usually I torque mine to 35, and if it's still seeping a little I'll crank her up to 45 (note, I only drop oil every 10k miles). I do think that once I ended up torquing to at least 60 to get it to stop leaking a small amount of oil, but I know this last time that 35 did the trick just fine.



Yes, it's probably cross-threaded, and yes, he's probably going to break it trying to get it out... he's actually probably going to crack the pan, which is a whole nother ball of fun to change (I remember talk of hoisting front of engine in air to get pan off).



Let them do it... the dealer too, not some local quick-change place... that way when it's broke, it's already where it will be fixed.

 

[Fireman Dave]

I torqued mine to spec once... . once. I darn near killed myself breaking it loose after that. It definitely tightens up after awhile. Since then, I tighten it the same way I've always done oil changes before - just snug. It's still a bear to break loose. Mine never leaks either. My advice is to never torque the oil pan drain plug to spec - it's too tight.

 

[RustyJC]

All I've ever done is use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a short handle and tighten it snug. No leaks, and it's never come loose.



Rusty

 

[B9Mile]

Its 44 ft-lbs

The book for my 98. 5 says 44 ft-lbs. When the ISB first came out, there was some confusion. I think the torque for 12-vavle drain plugs is 62 ft-lbs.



Before you remove the plug, get an extra one. These are notorious for developing cracks in the shoulder area of the plug when they are over torqued.



Fortunately, I am still able to use my original plug and gasket, without any leaks.

 

[FourBarR]

44 ft lbs. is too much torque. lots have been broken . mine broke where the flange meets the threaded part. would have bee big problem if i had not had a new one. i have since changed to a felco quick drain, which is permantly mounted in the pan. has a cap that screws on to protect. when you want to drain the oil , you screw on a fitting that has a hose attached. no mess, or burned hands.

 

[Chief USA]

The 2002 owner's manual I have says 37 ft. /lbs. I torque mine at the time of oil change that then I take the truck out for a drive and get the engine up to full operation temp and then retorque the plug while the engine is hot immediately after shutdown. Torque values vary depending upon where you look but 37 and not more than 40 ft. /lbs. is a good safe figure. I tried 37 ft. /lbs. and it just didn't seem like enough so I go with 40 ft. /lbs.

 

[y-knot]

Chris,

According to the Haynes manual the proper oil pan drain bolt torque is 60 ft/lb. I think there has been many over the years who have had problems with their drain plugs, but I don't think they were necessarily torque related. I think most of the problems stem from guys not wanting to spend 1. 95 for a replacement drain bolt sealing washer. These seals were not meant to last the life of the truck, like almost every other product today routine maintenance is on going and constant. Most imports supply you with a replacement sealing washer when you buy their filters, Cummins and every other filter manufacture doesn't support this ideal. So, it's left to the consumer to determine when it's time for replacement. Unfortunately, most don't think about the sealing washer, just the filter and oil. As the washer ages, it requires more torque to seal, so you can see how over the period of several oil changes the drain bolt get abused.

You have no choice but to go ahead and break the oil plug free, but before you do, drop by the local Dodge dealer and pick yourself up a replacement oil drain bolt and a couple of sealing washer.

 

[RKohn]

Once you get it out...

Put in one of those easy drain things. Then all you have to do is remove the brass cap, screw the hose on and out the oil comes, no-muss, no-fuss.

 

[Dartman]

Fumoto Valve

Here's a link for the Fumoto valve. I originally bought mine from Geno's garage. But couldn't open the Dodge Cummins section. If you do get one, check how far the threaded portion of the valve sticks into the oil pan. If it up above the lip of the pan drain hole, you will leave old oil inside the pan @ every change. I drilled four 3/16" holes at the bottom of the threads (as the valve sits installed) above the gasket to allow additional drainage. Also a picture of the holes I got off these forums afew years ago.



http://www.fumotovalve.com/

 

[GO 4LO]

Thanks for all the help, everyone. Were there any design changes for the plug? The reason I ask is I don't see where a sealing washer would fit on my truck. My plug takes a 3/8" square drive and is tightened flush with the pan... Thanks again for all the replies - great info!

Chris

 

[y-knot]

Chris,

All drain bolts should have a sealing washer on them, that is what stops the oil from seeping out. If you do not have one on now, i suppose that is why your drain bolt is so dang tight, some idiot left it off and used excess torque to seal the threads. The Mopar part number for the replacement sealing washers is 04882049 WSH,SNG. They are cheap and I would advise you to pick-up a couple while you are their. I did last time I ordered them, and have given away 5-6 to people like yourself. For a replacement drain bolt itself, Geno's garage has an oversize HD plug that incorporates a magnetic tip on the end. They offer it in three models to comply with the three different types of plugs used over the years. The 94-01 year trucks takes the big 22mm plug, and gets tightened down to 40ft/lb (recommended for this plug, the manual states 60ft/lbs). It also will fit the sealing washers from Mopar, and runs 19. 95. Good luck with the clutch and oil plug.

 

[C4gan]

Chris,

I had the same stinkin problem when i bought mine... . Whomever changed the oil last did not install the washer and put blue thread locker on the plug. Needless to say i broke the plug, 1/2 to 3/8 reducer and put a nice gouge in my right elbow from the trans cross member when everything decided to let go! I put a heavy duty plug from Geno's for 19. 95. Good luck trying to get it out! Might want to wear some elbow pads!

Chris

 

[slo-ryde]

The drain plug actually has the specified torque stamped on it around the outer edge. Mine says 35 foot pounds. I've always set it to that torque, it never leaks, and comes off easily when it's time to change the oil. The plug has a rubber washer molded on to it, mine is starting to show some age but still seals up perfectly everytime. I keep a spare in the glove box, paid around $8 for it.