Ok Here Goes "which Syn Oil To Use"

[JNeeley]

Ok, not to start another topic on a beat down subject but:

Getting close to 20k and want to use a synthetic oil, of these three which one do ya'll beleive is the best?



Valvoline Extreme blue

Amsoil

Royal Purple



and should I stay with 15/40 ?????

 

[pwr2tow]

Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme is not a group IV synthetic, it's group III.

Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil turbo diesel, Redline, Schaefer, are the only true synthetic oils that I know of.

Redline is the highest grade with group V, the others are group IV.

I use Rottela T synthetic 5-40 (group III) because it's the lowest cost out of any synthetic and I need a 5-40.

Exteneded drains on synthetics is a hype propoganda. You can use conventional oils using the same methods for extended drains as you would with synthetic oils.

 

[XXLTexan]

Full Syn? If so I believe I believe they are all the same. I used Mobile 1 on my 05' and thought it was fine. Most people use full syns to increase their change interval. I have power adders, tow heavy, and use power service and marvel m. o. so I change my oil every 5k on the dot. Most say thats overkill especially with full syns but it gives me warm fuzzies. I do not use full syns anymore on my 07' 31,000 miles because I change it so often. This is a heavily debated topic and probably most are tired of arguing. I have been on both sides and have come to this conclusion. Use the best oil you can afford (15-40 dino or syn) and change it every 5k... my $. 02

 

[DeezelDood]

There will be strong support in this forum for all three, and then some. I'll add Mobil1 Turbo Diesel. Big bad ExxonMobil gets a bad rap, maybe deservedly so, but their R&D is second to none, also top quality base stocks and additives. Mobil 1 is their signature lube, but it's a low volume product and they don't really make much money on it. It's more of a marketing tool. The last time I checked it's only available 5w40. The 5W gives you easy cold starts. Best part, you can buy it at Wal Mart. I've been running Mobil1 about 30 years now (change at 10k) in gassers, and now in my diesel. I sold every one of my gassers at 200-250k miles, not an engine breakdown among them. Not a spec of sludge in any of them either. Decision on synthetics should, of course, be based on annual mileage. The time the oil is in the engine is the important factor. I'll soon be reducing my annual mileage from 25,000 to about 10,000, mostly short towing/hauling trips. I will then switch back to 15w40 dino oil as I don't like going more than 6 months w/o an oil change. No need to waste $$$ on syn at 5k interval.

 

[ENafziger]

Full Syn? If so I believe I believe they are all the same.

No, they're not all the same. The 2nd post summed it up pretty well. If you use the search function, there's enough reading for several cold winter nights.

Most people have great luck with the syn Rotella... I didn't. Metal wear analaysis indicated very high iron wear.

This subject always brings about strong opinions, but from my little research and experience, Schaeffer's 9000 with Moly is probably one of, if not the best, oils out there. The price is only a couple dollars higher than the Rotella. The only downside is that it is a little harder to get than some other oils.

--Eric

 

[mberry]

I have used RP, Amsoil, Valvoline, and Delo 400. So far, the oil I have gotten the best results from has been Amsoil. I'm trying to find some Schaeffer 9000 now since I'm in need of an oil change. Anyone know where I can get some?

 

[AHire]

I have used RP, Amsoil, Valvoline, and Delo 400. So far, the oil I have gotten the best results from has been Amsoil. I'm trying to find some Schaeffer 9000 now since I'm in need of an oil change. Anyone know where I can get some?

My local diesel shop is a Schaeffer dealer they could get it i would say. The number is in my sig.

 

[XXLTexan]

I'll say MY OPINION again. If you are changing your oil and filter every 5k and your not going to the strip or sled pull with two staked chips, water/meth,nitrous and twins, they are the same. I have have 4 ctds, since 96. I put over 320,000 on my 96 and changed the oil every 5k with 15-40 "good" dino oils with no problem. I do not argue that syns are better especially if you are going to get a test kit and go 20,30+ but if you are changing your filter and oil every 5k why spend the money for syns? (rhetorical)

 

[DPellegrin]

JNeeley- I believe what some of the previous posters are refering to is called Delvac 1, not Mobil 1. Delvac 1 comes only in 5W-40. Also this oil was marketed as Mobil 1 SUV, 5W40.



I think the Cummins Extreme Blue is an excellent product as is the Delvac 1. The Shell Rottela 5W 40 is a good product as well. All these oil have API licences for CI-4 and CJ-4. This allows the producer to display the API "donut".



I'm uncomfortable with oils that do not have API licences. While many oils say: "meets API CI-4 or CJ-4" they in fact do not have an API licence. So just be sure that the oil you select does have an API licence.



Regards,

 

[DPalmquist]

well I've only got 57k+ on my ctd and the last oil change I put 2. 5 qts. of syn. and the rest torco 15-40 dino w/12 oz. of torco EAL (engine assembly lube) suppose to be the slipperyest stuff on earth. just heard about trying that so I did. don't know what it will do but when I get 10k on it I'm going to get oil analysis. Oh and by the way I ran into a guy that had business w/hauling stuff nationwide, used dodges w/ctd's that got over a mill. miles changed oil 12-14k and used rotella 15-40 dino. Said he'd have to put inj. pump in about every 350k.

 

[JDiepstra]

My local diesel guy swears by Amsoil. Sold me a bunch of it. Maybe he gets a kickback?

For a second there I forgot how to spell diesel. What the???

 

[RDietze]

... ... ... ... ... ... The time the oil is in the engine is the important factor. I'll soon be reducing my annual mileage from 25,000 to about 10,000, mostly short towing/hauling trips. I will then switch back to 15w40 dino oil as I don't like going more than 6 months w/o an oil change. No need to waste $$$ on syn at 5k interval.

What is the truth behind "time the oil is in the engine?" Even on the Amsoil site, they recommend changing yearly. I run RP with an Amsoil BMK-11 bypass -- oil analysis was fine after over 25K and about 2 years in the crankcase. Thanx!

 

[JNeeley]

I have read in another thread that Cummins dosen't recommmend "MOLY" inhibitors in the oil, yet I understand Royal Purple and Schaffer 9000 use MOLY inhibitors - whats up with this ??

 

[DeezelDood]

What is the truth behind "time the oil is in the engine?" Even on the Amsoil site, they recommend changing yearly. I run RP with an Amsoil BMK-11 bypass -- oil analysis was fine after over 25K and about 2 years in the crankcase. Thanx!

I'm going to try an attachment, fingers crossed. Its a text file to reduce size, so the charts are useless. Full article is in issue 57.

 

[mberry]

My local diesel shop is a Schaeffer dealer they could get it i would say. The number is in my sig.

Thanks AHire. I was hoping for someone a bit more local to save some shipping costs.

I change my oil once per year or every 10K whichever comes first. This time it took 15 months to reach 10K miles on the oil.

 

[BillGotthelf]

I have very good results with Amsoil Series 3000 synthetic but I also run bypass filters.

 

[RDietze]

I'm going to try an attachment, fingers crossed. Its a text file to reduce size, so the charts are useless. Full article is in issue 57.

Very informative readings!

I noticed royal purple was not tested?

Anyone have the values for the following for royal purple 15w-40?



Viscosity @ 100°

TBN

Calcium

Magnesium

Phosphorus

Zinc

Boron

Molybdenum



The website of course was of no help.

Thanks!

ron

 

[amsoilman]

Ok, not to start another topic on a beat down subject but:

Getting close to 20k and want to use a synthetic oil, of these three which one do ya'll beleive is the best?



Valvoline Extreme blue

Amsoil

Royal Purple



and should I stay with 15/40 ?????

I think you should go with the oil, filters and drain intervals that you feel good about.

With that said, I use the Amsoil by-pass system (BMK-11) with the EaBP-100 filter and the Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine CI-4+ 15W-40 engine oil. The filtration system and the oil was installed in my 03' CTD in April 2003@8,700 miles. The truck now has 73,000 + miles, and the oil has over 64,000 miles.



The last analysis (2-21-2007) showed the oil to be still in good shape. Viscosity was still in the middle of 40 grade range of 13. 99 cSt Viscosity@100C. soot was 0. 08 percent, wear metals were still low with the exception of copper. The high copper reading is most likely coming from the oil cooler, as chromium, tin, and alluminum and lead are very low.



The BOTTOM line is: Do what you think is comfortable! I am very comfortable with what I am doing.



Wayne

 

[AHire]

First off im not saying one oil is better just my experience.



I have a local Schaeffer dealer that does a demo from time to time. He has some type of bearing machine that you can put x-brand of oil on to see how much pressure it takes to stall the bearing out. We tried all sorts of oil from the shop, rotella, mobile1, delo, amsoil, schaeffer, royal purple, redline, even tried adding lucas to the ones that didnt last very long. The only ones that stood out was amsoil and schaeffer 7000. The schaeffer 7000 was the only one that didnt stall out. Amsoil took ALOT of pressure to get it to stall. Also we couldn't get the schaeffer to mix with water.



I have had people tell me that the guy has the machine rigged or something in his bottle of Schaeffer, but he let us choose what to try out of what we had not what he brought.



What does the bearing test have to do with how good an oil is?

 

[betterthanstock]

Ha, ha. In the 3rd gen forums alone, there are 82 threads that have the word "synthetic" in the title.

Hundreds (it stops at 500) that have it in the body of text.