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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) OK How do I run down oil leak????

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) how do i check for error codes?

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collecting on my pan bolts - and I do have the oil bottle bypass setup hose so it's not coming from there,,,but I have oil dripping down on the front driveshaft and over the drivers side of the engine..... what to change... . and what might be the $$$$$$. How much is involved in changing the pan... . looks like a nightmare... .
 
Clean the engine as best you can, then start it up, and I do mean clean. No oil residue or buildup.

Parking brake on, trans in nuetral (manual) or park (auto) then crawl under the truck with a flashlight and start watching for oil to come out.

If after 5 minuets, nothing, then take the truck for a short drive (1 or two trips around the block) then repeat the inspection.

Could be the front main seal, vacuum pump, timing cover, or indeed, the pan gasket. 2000 and up 24v truck are not immune to KDP issues, just real rare.

Verify the location of the leak before you start throwing parts at it.

Let us know where the leak is.

It is doable to change the pan gasket without pulling the engine, just a pain in the arse.
 
Presuming it is the front cover, it is not that bad. Worst part is going to be getting the front pulley off. It is either going to slide off, or fight all the way. Never had one meet me half way. Water pump and idler pulley are just a couple of bolts.



If it is the back side - READ the timing gear housing, then yeah, that sucks.



If you can read instructions, have a few basic tools, and minimal skill, you can DIY.



First off, where exactly is the leak? Top, bottom... . ? If it is in the angle on the drivers side of the engine directly across (towards the passenger side) from the crank breather, you may have a dowel pin issue happening.



The first thing I would do is pull the serpentine belt, get a torque wrench, and re-torque all the bolts to spec (18 ft #). It may or may not cure your ills. Not exactly the proper way to do it, but I have about 5 trucks and 3 pieces of heavy equipment at work that had big time oil leaks that just needed the bolts re-torqued. Over a year on a couple and still dry as a bone.



If you do have to replace the gasket, you will need a new front main seal, that can be a PITA to do, and if you don't have the proper tools, you may want to take it (just the cover) to a shop and have them do it.
 
Go to fishers or a napa store and get uv dye. You might need to bottles being it holds 11 qts. Run the engine no cleaning off involved. Use a blacklight to trace it where its coming from. Alot quicker and effective!
 
When i had an oil leak at the timing cover to block gasket, somebody on here said try tightening the bolts behind the cam gear. You will have to bend a 10mm wrench th reach them. I did this 2 years ago and my front has stayed dry, my leak was making a good mess.
 
as mentioned before check your bolts. the only major leak I was having on my 02 prior to relocating the puke bottle was the oil pan. seems every 20k miles they would start to show accumilation. I finally cleaned the area. pulled bolts one at a time and put loc-tight on them so far so good its been over

50k and no more accumilation, it always seemed the front of pan those bolts where the ones that wanted to loosen up not the back of the pan bolts. as said also try the uv dye its a cheap way and quick and may also be less hassle to nail the leak. good luck
 
I was having the same problem (if I am understanding you correct, oil on the oil pan bolts?)



What I did was remove a couple of bolts at a time from the pan, cleaned the bolt and the bolt holes with break/parts cleaner, then used some high temp sealant in the bolt threads (think I used some Permatex Copper if I remember correctly) and then reinstall/retorque. No more oil from the pan bolts.



Oil seemed to be weeping past the gasket at the bolts and down the threads.



Might be a quick/easy fix to try first, if this is what you are experiencing.



Hope this helps



J-
 
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