OK I have new Pads - trying to get done tonight ?????

[hammersley]

I've changed lots of front pads on vehicles, my own, I'm not a mechanic, but never on my 2001. Usually it takes longer to get the vehicle jacked up and the wheels off than actually changing the pads. Is this the same for my truck? Are there any oddball tools, like starr or hex sockets I need or any unusual tricks? I'm trying to do this tonight... . so help... .

 

[illflem]

Assuming an '01 is the same as older models you will need a 3/8" allen head socket, torque wrench and some silicone brake grease, the rest takes common tools. When you squeeze the calipers open crack the bleed screw open, you can damage the master cylinder by forcing the calipers open. Other than that it is the same as most other pad replacement. I find the most time consuming part to be torqueing the lug nuts down.

 

[Diesel Junkie]

you will need a #50 torques socket to remove the caliper bolts. you should also antiseize these before installing to prevent chatter.



Good luck, Scott

 

[Steve Campbell]

Iwould only use the anti-seize where the metal parts move. I would use the silicone grease where ther caliper bolts go through the dense rubber inserts. Just my experience.

 

[sam peterson]

Steves right. :---Sam

 

[hammersley]

Help - the Torx isn't a 50 - does anybody kkow if it's a 47 or 45?

Also - does the caliper slide inward to be removed?



Thanks

 

[Bob Wagner]

at this time

I would like to thank sam peterson for helping the TDR with all of his brake knowledge.



Whenever I have a brake problem I do a search using "sam peterson"



And I do have a hell of "brake squeal" that I can't shake.



The squeal is on the rear. Any suggestions?



I did adjust to no avail



I hate the sqeal

 

[illflem]

Bob, my rears used to squeal every time I crossed the Cascades to the wetside, mostly on the first few breakings after have been parked. I attributed it flash rusting on the drums. My rigs also have rear squeal when driving on dusty roads. Another problem could be a slight leak in the axle seal oiling the shoes.

 

[sam peterson]

Thanks for the kind words Bob--I am here to help when ever I can. I am assuming that you have rear drum brakes on your 01. Try sanding the shoes with some heavy grit paper [60 to 120 grit] to see if the noise goes away. If it does but comes back after awhile its probably the lining material. If the noise is worse under light pedal pressure you might try a chamfer on the leading edge the primary shoe---Sam

p/s--I have a product that sprays directly on the drums to help the shoes seat better. It is made by the makers of Lube Gard. [international lubricants of seattle] It has helped with various squeek problems on front & rear.

 

[Gray Ghost]

Since I'm an old woodworker, I use an old wooden clamp to retract the brakes. I take the brake assm. off and clamp it in and start squeezing. Doesn't damage anything because it is a wood clamp and I can get the presure I need. Mr Auther Ritus is always in my way. you can find the clamps in various sizes at Sears. My 5 cents(inflation)

 

[Extreme1]

Rear Drum Break Squeal

Sand the rust off and put a dab of silicone based (calipar pin) grease at the points where the shoes contact the backing plate. This will usually cure it.