Old School's new truck

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Hey Old School.

How do you like your '98 12V? How does power compare to your '92? Will you tack weld your 5th gear nut? Do you miss your 1st Gen?

The info you posted on the site about the injector #'s is REALLY neeto.

I'll say it again: This site and the TDR magazine is ALL you need for Dodge/Cummins info.

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'93 W350 Club Cab, 5 sp. , Factory Options: LE, 4. 10, LS, 7600 lb. rear springs, tachometer, front stabilizer bar. Mods: Banks stinger plus, Linex bedliner, 25,000 lb gooseneck, 10,000 lb receiver, Tekonsha brake controller,
PW injectors.

 

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I've really got to hand it to you 1st Gen guys. There's no need to blast out a headline "HEY! I GOT ANOTHER TRUCK!!!!"... just slip in a one liner in the signature, and bingo! you astute folks pick it right on up
Mark 93: I'll answer your questions:
I really like the '98, after a little searching for a 5 speed, and a 3. 55, and a '97 or '98 4wd, I found the truck with 5,750 miles on it. It's mint.
My '92 would blow it away, right now.
NO! I wouldn't even consider welding on any transmission shaft. I purchased the 5th gear nut kit from Dodge two months ago, without even having a 2nd Gen truck, with the plan to machine a "bulletproof" internal tapered split collar to fit between the shaft, gear, and nut. We'll see how that works out.
Yes and No. I think of the '92, and I know it's at a good home.
I'll keep y'all posted as to the enhancements.
Got to get the thought pattern working on the manual hub, real axle, gear transfer case "drop in"... ... still 12 valves! ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTIONS!

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'98 2500, Cummins 12v, 5spd, 4wd, 3. 55, GOT DIESEL?

 

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A '98 with 5750 miles! Man you got a deal!!!

Your mods are exactly what I would do.

Dodge should offer an upgrade option with those things and call it a Power Ram.

 

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Hey Old School!

Man, I love the way you think! I've been over to Dave Fritz's website checking out his "Reverse Rotation Dana 60 front axle" installation. Quite the job, I must say!

The only modification I would have to make would be to ditch the coil springs & track bar and install some old fashion Skyjacker leaf springs! I believe this also would make this installation much more straight forward & robust. GOT MIG WELDER!?

After reading over Dave's website I begining to think that maybe you should find yourself a super clean '92 or '93 and just do a "Cup Holder" and "Arm Rest" conversion! Seems like a lot work just to obtain a "P" pump!

We haven't even touched on the transfer case yet! All kidding aside, I know your looking for a new truck challange and this seems like an awesome truck.

Congratulations on the new ride!... ... Keeno

 

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old school.
Congratulations on the acquistion of your new truck. Sounds like you got yourself a real nice #ad
"diesel puff".

Keep up with the good advice and information to the First Generation Folk.

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92LE,Cummins,tach,4x4,5spd,Borgeson steering shaft,

 

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I'm with Al, write down everything you can remember about your '92. We are all going to be calling on you!!! #ad


Jason

 

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Thanks All:
Rest assured that I'll continue to comment on, help with, and answer questions and concerns with the 1st Gen trucks, TIP to TAIL.
I really don't think I need to write down the experiences and mods. thru the years, even though I'll admit to keeping a "stash" of paper and slips concerning repairs, upgrades, etc.
There will be no hesitation to rise to the challenge of keeping the 1st Gen trucks running.
New truck Challenge? Truck Project? Believe it.
The '92 powerhouse was a project, and a daily driver. 1st a dependable truck, 2nd a project to improve.
The "new to me" round Dodge presents the same opportunity.
12 valves? P7100 pump? of course. no contest.
Keep on keepin' on.

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'98 2500, Cummins 12v, 5spd, 4wd, 3. 55, GOT DIESEL?

 

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Hey Old School!

I understand that your new 'Long Board' haulin' Rig has an upcoming appointment with TED and his top-notch surgical staff over at JRE!

What do you have in store for the 'New' girl or is currently considered to be a secret? Come on, you can tell us, we won't tell a soul!

Have a great weekend... ... Keeno

 

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Planning to get a real early "dawn patrol" session in at Narragansett or the point. Going for a Sat. and Sun. "get some swell" weekend.
For the Ted J. stop next week, we're planning:
4" exhaust, tip to tail, JRE Power kit for the pump, AFC spring, injectors, pyro/boost gages, 2 1/2 coils, upper and lower control arms, rear springs, DT Heim joint track bar, and then a coffee break.
Now: to keep this post 1st Gen related: Here's old school's "Tip of the Week":
For relatively low bucks, you can replace the upper king pin bushings in the 1st Gen 4WD trucks. If your truck appears to have the top of the wheels tipping in toward each other (negative camber), and over 100K miles, you might consider this for a Saturday morning (or in the evening after the lawn is mowed, and the porch steps fixed) couple of hours thing. The archives have this mentioned. And the manual (which everyone has) has a great write up. The Dodge kit includes the bushings, and the gaskets. Part # 04384127 is for a '92. The price is reasonable, check it out.
Steering, response and tire life is improved.
All the best to the 1st team!


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'98 2500, Cummins 12v, 5spd, 4wd, 3. 55, GOT DIESEL?

[This message has been edited by old school (edited 06-27-2000). ]

 

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Well "OLd School"

How did things go on your Friday appointment over at the customer focused establishment of Jannetty Racing Enterprises? Is the new girl as powerful as that immaculate '92 powerhouse you let go to a good home?

Please make certain to include a tip of the week to keep us legal over here in the First Generation Forum. I would hate to see you get booted thru cyber-space!

Keeno

 

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Things went very well indeed. The day was complete and successful. It was nice to hear the Cummins on the way home doing the power song the way it was designed to. I'm going to post the blow by blow recap in the 12 valve engine and drivetrain to share the experience with those folks that may not get over here to the 1st team forum. I know all you fine 1st Gen. folks understand. After all... We got along just fine without cup holders. I use the one in my "new" '98 to hold my round cake of surfboard wax!
Check out the 12v Eng/Drivetrain Forum - "'98 12 VALVE DAY OF ENHANCEMENT"
Now for the "old school's tip of the week". .
When changing your 1st Gen fuel filter (the wonderfully easy to get at one), and the fuel heating disc element loosens and turns with the filter element, don't sweat. You can hold the heating element gently and firmly with a good pair of channel lock pliers. Loosen and remove the filter, then set aside the pliers. Loosen the hollow threaded mounting stud, noting the O ring position. clean the threads, square the heating disc, put the O ring back on the mounting stud, and hand thread it in. Final tighten with an open end wrench, be careful to avoid marring the threads, which are used to spin on the new filter.
Now pre-fill the new filter with clean diesel, wait, fill it again, wait, fill it one more time to the top. Now standing on that plastic milk crate you are using, you should carefully and surely thread the filled filter onto the threaded stud. Tighten by hand and with a clean rag wrapped around the filter as tight as you can. Wipe off any mess you have made, and now start your truck. IDLE for a few minutes, check for leaks, Shut it down. Restart, rev it up from idle a few times, now shut it down, it's done.
All the years on my '92, this method has produced trouble free restarts, and no lost prime.
Good sharing with y'all.
Long may you run.

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'98 2500, Cummins 12v, 5spd, 4wd, 3. 55, 300 injectors, JRE III power kit, 4" turbo to tail system, boost/pyro, did I mention 12 valves? GOT DIESEL?

[This message has been edited by old school (edited 06-27-2000). ]

 

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OLD SCHOOL I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT MY T. P. S. I HAD IT REPLACED BY THE DEALER AT ABOUT 65,000 MILES AND I NOTICED THE POWER WASN'T THE SAME. THE PROBLEM CAME BACK ABOUT THREE MONTHS LATER. THE UP AND DOWN SHIFTING WHILE AT SPEED. I PULLED IT OFF THE PUMP AND THE FIRST THING I NOTICED WAS THE HOUR SHAPED BOTTOM OF THE T. P. S. THE PUMP SIDE HAS A MALE SCREWDRIVER SLOT. THE T. P. S. DOESN'T ACTIVATE UNTIL ABOUT QUARTER THROTTLE. SHOULD THERE BE A RUBBER GROMMET BETWEEN THE TWO TO TAKE UP THE SLACK?

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1990 250 4X4 REG CAB, 1993 1 TON EXTENDED CAB DUALLY 4X4,
1982 1 TON CREW CAB 4X4 SHORT BOX 440 C. I.

 

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I'm familiar with the pumps and components on the manual transmission trucks. Not having, or having to, remove the TPS from an auto trans truck, I can't help you out on a possible missing component. As you may know, the TPS works in conjunction with the speed sensor (Dodge calls it a distance sensor), the engine speed sensor, and the engine controller to determine the 3-4 upshift, and the 4-3 downshift.
As the TPS is a potentiometer, the voltage output to the controller varies from approx. 1 volt at idle, to 3. 5 volts at wide open throttle.
This would lead us to believe a progressive increase would occur, meaning not a quarter throttle of "slack" in the operation of the system from missing components.
Anyway, this may help shed light on the system design, but does not answer the "what parts connect the throttle and do I have them all?" question.
Are there any auto trans folks here that have lifted off the TPS and remember the pieces and any play in the installed unit?


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'98 2500, Cummins 12v, 5spd, 4wd, 3. 55, 300 injectors, JRE III power kit, 4" turbo to tail system, boost/pyro, did I mention 12 valves? GOT DIESEL?

 

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concerning the tps there is no missing piece. The tps is spring loaded internally, there should be no play when its installed. Infact because of it's internal spring when installing the tps it needs to be turned slightly one way to get it to line up with the slotted piece than turned back the other way to line the bolt holes back up. There is a 10 mm bolt at the bottom of the slotted piece that is turn to set the tps voltage at one volt when the key is in the on posistion. The voltage is measure between the middle wire in the tps connector and ground,I use a safety pin inserted into the middle wire at the base of the connector to read this voltage. Than as old school said at full throttle it should read over three volts. I'm on my fourth one, they do wear out but should last a lot longer than three months. Good luck
Gene
92 350 4x4

 

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There you have it J&T! Good post Gene.

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'98 2500, Cummins 12v, 5spd, 4wd, 3. 55, 300 injectors, JRE III power kit, 4" turbo to tail system, boost/pyro, did I mention 12 valves? GOT DIESEL?

 

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Thank you very much for the info guys. I deal with potentiometers at my work place and they are a very delicate component. It's hard to believe they would put this device on a vibrator like a diesel . AGAIN THANK YOU!!!

 

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A few months ago my truck started doing the 4-3 and 3-4 thing uncommanded. A trip out to the local tune up shop and they zeroed in on the TPS in no time at all. A quick check found that it was out of position.
For as long as I've had the truck (1/96), when accelerating while towing I'd switch off OD until I was at a good speed, otherwise it would engage at a high power setting. Now it will not engage unless I back off a lot on the pedal.
My 2 cents worth.

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Ian.

'93 D250 ext. cab. Upgraded injectors, 3. 5" exhaust, K & N filter, Xmsn oil cooler and fan, 4 gauge mount, mirror tubes reversed, RACOR fuel filter, larger transmission oil pan.