Old Ugly, New Clutch

[GHarman]

The Clutch is installed!!!!!!

Got er done today with the help of my A&P Bud. All the way to the bell housing, including the actuating lever and the throwout bearing. That feels good Oo. . One question in my mind is the new clutch surface area vs the original equipment clutch surface area?. Wow, what a difference. The South Bend Con-O has half of the engagement area of the O. E. clutch. Anybody got a comment on this ? Lots more to do, another day. GregH

 

[DValentine]

Is the material organic or ceramic? The OE was organic. Ceramic clutch material sheads/stands up to heat from friction much better than organic. It also grips better, so therefor only half the material is needed. The same is true on class 8 truck clutches.

Gee when you get done you'll have to give her a bath and such to make her feel good. LOL

Dave

 

[GHarman]

Dave, I dont know what the material is. It has copper fragments embedded in it? BTW, It'll be me that needs the bath:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf

The best I can do fer "Old Ugly" is a coat of rustoleum paint and several tubes of silicone caulk on the cab. GregH

 

[dpuckett]

Is the material organic or ceramic?... .

His original post mentioned a ConO, leaving me to believe organic. One also has to consider spring pressure on the pressure plate. If the clamp load is higher, torque capacity will also be higher. I dont think the 750lb-ft is much higher than the stock Sachs.



DP

 

[GHarman]

transmission And T-case are installed!

YESSSSS!!!, What a grunt. Them suckers are awkward, heavy and a royal pain in the #@$%!. Lots more little stuff to do. Got to make a punch list.

It took both of us old buzzards to git er done:-laf. . I think the Harbor Freight transmission jack helped alot. There were some learning curves associated, such as ; set the gear box on wooden shims placed on the steel tray of the jack. Steel is slippery, ( I knew that!!!) and when you use the tilt adjustments you will find the normally stable gear box in yer lap. Laying the transmission sideways and making the approach input shaft first, from under the frame next to the muffler on the passenger side, then right the transmission and chain it down, placing wooden shims under the front of the transmission so there is adequate tilt adjustment on the tray.

We figgered that the T-case could be handled similarly, approach from the same side jack handle first. Use the tilt adjustments to rock the gear box under the exhaust and frame. Jack handle to the driver side, under the door and tilt forward toward the passenger door to align t-case studs. Needed a better tiedown to the tilt plate. Just about lost it there. One man would have not been able to control it unless you can bench press a t-case.

Thank You LORD, No one got hurt. GregH

 

[GHarman]

punch list

pull transmission mount plate. Cut off even with factory plate. CV joint clearance. Reinstall with washers at the bolt head on frame and threadlocker on bolts.

electrical hookups on t-case, speedometer sending unit and transmission. Use Dielectric grease.

Hook up wire loom on frame.

top off engine oil, Amsoil 15W-40 Marine Diesel

fill transmission with flush oil. Drain replace with Amsoil 5W-30 Syncromesh- 4. 5 Quarts

fill t-case with gear oil. Amsoil 80W-90

Hook up clutch slave cylinder. Check for clutch engagement and disengagement before starting.

remount rear drive shaft.

remount front drive shaft.

grease U-joints

replace rear diff lube with 75W-110 Amsoil Severe Gear oil. Make gasket for diff cover.

replace fuel filter

adjust valves ( got some slack time on this)

Rotate tires ( Discount tires, Free)

caulk cab rain gutter

Trailer towing wireing short.

 

[GHarman]

Cross Member Orientation

In the process of removing the transmission mount to trim it for front driveshaft clearence, I noticed something odd!. The transmission is not centered on the mounting plate and the cross member!. The cross member has a triangle cutout on one side about 3/4" on a side. It was oriented with that triangle on the shotgun side of the truck, as I remember. WE assembled the cross member to the frame with that triangle cutout on the driver side. The mounting plate has to be flipped for the holes to line up. With a generic home made plate, The 13/16" shift of the transmission to the driver side was not noticed. While cutting the edges for front drive shaft clearance, I noticed the offset of the holes and compared them with the original and took the original under the truck for a closer look. "Shonuff", The sucker is in back'ards. Hope my bud has a spudbar to align holes:-laf. Got some pictures. Will try to load'em. Cant do it wont resize my picture files and I dont know how to resize them manually. Greg

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Here is a couple in photobucket. Thanks Steve!

 

[GHarman]

PS, Anybody familiar with the crossmember orientation? Does yours have a small triangle cutout in the shotgun side, up inside the formed "U" near the top crossmember brace attachment? I also wonder if a difference of 1"+ in the location of the outpot yoke on the T-case will cause driveline problems? Got to change it anyway. Thanks, GregH

 

[DValentine]

Greg, any time a u joint is run as close to true, it will last longer and run without as much vibration. I looked at my truck and the crossmember has a Vee on the passenger side front...

 

[GHarman]

Thanks Dave, My thinking also, Just didnt have the words. Will be turning things around today. GregH

 

[dpuckett]

On the 2wds anyway, and possibly the 4x4s, there is a second section that braces the crossmember at an angle from the lower part of the frame. That goes on the driver's side, as the passenger side has to have clearance for the exhaust pipe.



DP

 

[GHarman]

Hey Daniel, Dave, Got'er turned around today with considerable help from my Bud. We also got most of the punchlist items taken care of. For me , another week if I can get over to the shop a couple of days. It should be done.

Daniel, On the 4X4, the crossmember is bolted to the bottom of the C-Channel frame and those angle braces come down from the top of the frame, on both sides.

Tried the clutch, not started. Seems smooth. Lots of play at the top and a LOOOONNNNGGGG throw. We'll see about the engagement at startup. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Links to pictures in post 10 and 27. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Triangle cutout

A heads up! Here is a picture of the triangle cutout on the crossmember that supports the transmission mount, on the shotgun side of the truck. The triangle is pointed toward the front of the truck. With this triangle switched to the driver side of the truck, the c/l of the transmission output shaft is moved 13/16" toward the driverside of its original position. By the time you get to the output yoke on the T-case, that move is magnified. BTW, this crossmember completely supports the weight of the T/case hanging off the rear of the transmission and the transmission mounted to an adaptor plate that sits on this cross member. Greg

 

[GHarman]

Finally got to do some work on the truck after 9 days of bunny trails. Reattached the rear cross member and the skidplate. Double checked the U-joint bolts. Glad I did, the front strap bolts were loose. Did an eyeball of everything. Hooked up the T-case breather tube and installed a new 3" exhaust clamp onto the exhaust hanger that attaches to the bell housing. Took a little time to inspect the raingutter on the cab. Very rusty with rust spots on the cab roof. A nice break from floor work, up and down, hands and knees. Used 4. 5" angle grinder and knot wheel brush and dug out the rain gutter and hit the rusty spots on the cab roof. No penetration! Painted the cleaned up areas with aluminum spray paint. Next time; Caulk raingutter with clear silicone RTV, fuel filter and rear axle pod oil change. Then we should be ready for startup and a transmission flush, run through the gears and drain-refill. Almost two months of my prime outdoor time gone for this year:{. I need a backup truck! Most of you out there would have had this done in a week or less. Greg

 

[GHarman]

Lessons Learned again; Frustration

You wrench crankers are gonna laugh at this one! I will when its done:-laf. Started the truck and rolled it out of the shop. Checked the clutch engagement and went through the gears on the transmission with no load, T-case in neutral. Checked t-case shift engagement. The shift lever bracket is not adjusted correctly for the t-case. No problem. Walked around the truck whilst it was idling and saw some oil drops. Looked under the truck and oil was coming down the front of the bell housing adaptor plate. I had a bad feeling about that during assembly of the rear main seal adaptor plate to the engine. We did the assembly in the wrong sequence. Should have been the rear main seal adaptor plate, first, then the pan gasket and oil pan. #@$%!#@$%!#@$%!. Now Ive got to fix that leak or replace the gasket again! Anyone have any ideas on replacing the pan gasket on the 5. 9 with the drive train attached. I've never done this one before. I reckon that the motor can be jacked up from below with a bottle jack blocked on the pan rim against the block. I may be able to pull the front frame member at the motor mounts? How to support the motor with a 2 ton engine hoist while working under the motor. It may take some engineering to use the motor mounts while the frame member is on vacation? Any thoughts? I'm definitely gonna get help. Greg

 

[GHarman]

Cost Saved?

Went to Cummins Rocky Mountain yesterday to pick up a new pan gasket, sump pipe gasket and bolts. Sump pipe bolts are supposed to be assembled dry ( light oil ) and torqued to 18-20 foot pounds. Asked for a price from the mechanic side of the shop and got 8-9 hours to replace the pan gasket on the 5. 9, 4X4 configuration. Thats @ $107/hr. plus parts and disposal fees. We will have alot more than 8-9 hours in this one. Hopefully we can get it right the second time around. Thursday, 18 October is the target day to get started. If we get the clearence needed I may replace the motor mounts any way. Hopefully another 183,000+ miles worth of service! GregH

 

[DValentine]

Go greg go. I have felt sorry for you. I could tell you a story about a guy who was getting married in the summer of 05, trying to get a 235 chevy six together for the 1946 chevy he wanted to use in his wedding. He does a quickie rebuild (honed cylinders and bearings) only to leave a rag under the crank as he put the pan on. On maden voyage notices oil pressure falling off. Thinks gauge is bad..... hears noises... . pulls pan to find rag. Puts new oil in minus rag-still low oil pressure. Buys new con rod bearings, as the crank bearings are not slip in, still low oil pressure... . a week before wedding. Puts heavy oil in and uses said truck in wedding. Still mad about stupid mistake.



Dave

 

[GHarman]

Dave, Thanks for the encouragement!! Dont feel sorry for me. There are those out there who are alot worse off than me. I am thankful that we do have an option here. Boy, could I tell you stories! This year has been nothing but 3 broken down vehicles, furnaces, water heaters and a failed septic system. ( Short Version, no more is appropriate in this forum) I am very thankful for the LORDS provision in people and finances to get these situations corrected. Nobody has shoveled dirt in my face as yet:-laf! Reckon that means, keep going. GregH

 

[RTRAM]

I have read your tale and it reminded me of several of my repair issues. I wish you God's speed, patience, and wisdom to fix your truck. I have been down this path tooooooo many times and now I only tackle the smaller jobs, like steering gears, etc