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One break pad wearing out in 10,000 miles?

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2001 or 2001.5

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I replaced the pads 10,000 miles ago. The front right inside is on the rotor. The rest have half the pad left. This was the same case when I changed them the first time. I greased the pins and cleaned the break mechanism real good and it still did it. If any of you have any ideas they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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1999 2500 white quad cab sport diesel. loaded, leather. JRE 4" Straight pipe,JRE injectors,K/N Filter,lund luner visor,lund wiper cowl,Westin nerf bars,silencer removed, 35" tires on 16. 5"x10" rims,bushwacker fender flares. Hadley air horns.
 
Sounds like you have a stuck or non retracting piston in you caliper

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Steve in Spokane,01 4x4 Auto Quad Cab SB, NRA Life Member, Former PSD owner
 
Thanks for the replies. I will just rotate them. I plan on trading the truck soon anyway. I pitty the poor ******* who buys it next.

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1999 2500 white quad cab sport diesel. loaded, leather. JRE 4" Straight pipe,JRE injectors,K/N Filter,lund luner visor,lund wiper cowl,Westin nerf bars,silencer removed, 35" tires on 16. 5"x10" rims,bushwacker fender flares. Hadley air horns.
 
I've got 50k on my OEM brakes. What seems to be the problem? My neighbor is a wrench at a Dodge service center and after reading serveral posts about brake life, I pulled my front tires and asked him to come over and give me his opinion on my brake wear. I have just over a 1/4" of brake pad left and he said I still have 40-50% of servicable pad left; now go figure, and I tow occasionally and only use my e-brake when I tow. I know a person that that has gone through 3 sets of brakes and I've got more miles on my truck than he and his is a 98 and mine is a 98. 5. I think It's more of how you use your brakes than anything else. I never lean on them unless it's absolutley necessary. I always see people race from one stop light or sign to another and stop hard and start hard; that I think is where all your brake wear comes from. These are "heavy" trucks and I don't think any after market pads will give you any better wear if you just pay attention to what your are doing. But, if you have more "bucks" than brains, more power to you.

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98. 5 2500 QC,SB W/ camper shell, whitw w/driftwood lower, 2wd,3. 54, loaded w/o leather,chrome Westin step bars, BD tc/vb and pressureloc,w/trans temp,4" BD exhaust from turbo back, firestone airbags, heavy duty pullrite hitch, Bug sheilds, 4x4 type mud flaps front and back, Amsoil bypass & air filter. Dual pyro-boost gauge,pillar mount, PS boost mod and elbow, Pacbrake w/ BD Autoloc,VA cpc and fuel pressure gauge, Bosch 275's.

[This message has been edited by arar (edited 04-04-2001). ]
 
arar, very well put! I have to agree, your pad wear depends on how you drive

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M. Foshee Jr.
2001-Dodge 2500 4x4
 
Dodge brakes suck period. I do not tow anything and am on set number 3 at 40,000 miles. It is always the inside front right pad and the rest are at 1/4 left.

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1999 2500 white quad cab sport diesel. loaded, leather. JRE 4" Straight pipe,JRE injectors,K/N Filter,lund luner visor,lund wiper cowl,Westin nerf bars,silencer removed, 35" tires on 16. 5"x10" rims,bushwacker fender flares. Hadley air horns.
 
Do any of you guys notice it pulling to the right too? Driving me nuts. Took it to the dealer and it was fine, for a while that is.
It's pulling to the right again. If I let up on the brake and press again. It tends to not be as bad.

I do agree. Dodge brakes suck.

Chris
 
Someone posted a while back about fixing their brake problems. He went to NAPA and got quality, solid caliper pins, then made his own "lube" paste out of antisieze and caliper pin lube. Made a world of difference, totally solved the brake pull and uneven pad wear problems.

I have a copy of the post on my computer at work so will post 'n paste tomorra.

Vaughn
Vaughn
 
Sounds like my truck. It has been doing this since new. I switched to PFCM and they last a little longer (but stop much better) What I do is rotate the pads so I end up with both inside pads warn out, then there good for 40K!

I have tried to polish the slides, take all the mounts apart and lube them but it still does it. always the RF Inside pad. Its not a frozen calaper.

Originally posted by outlawram:
I replaced the pads 10,000 miles ago. The front right inside is on the rotor. The rest have half the pad left. This was the same case when I changed them the first time. I greased the pins and cleaned the break mechanism real good and it still did it. If any of you have any ideas they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 
Originally posted by TowPro:
I agree most of us are wearing our brakes fast because of our driving habits, But the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads cost less then the Dodge pads (around $35. 00), have a life time guarantee, stop better then the OEM pads (ask anybody that has used them), and don't wear the rotors (unless you run them until there is metal to metal contact). I don't think the "more bucks then brains" applies to this equation #ad



I installed the PF pads on my truck when the originals wore out at 50K miles. The inner PF pad on the right side wore out 10K miles later. The guys at autozone were cool and gave me a new set even though it was my calipers fault. I cleaned up the pins real good and greased them with silicone grease for disc brakes and the pad is doing fine so far. The PF brakes do stop alot better than the stockers too.
Steve

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves
 
I agree most of us are wearing our brakes fast because of our driving habits, But the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads cost less then the Dodge pads (around $35. 00), have a life time guarantee, stop better then the OEM pads (ask anybody that has used them), and don't wear the rotors (unless you run them until there is metal to metal contact). I don't think the "more bucks then brains" applies to this equation #ad


Originally posted by arar:
[B I don't think any after market pads will give you any better wear if you just pay attention to what your are doing. But, if you have more "bucks" than brains, more power to you.

[/B]
 
Regardless of driving habits, the right and left side pads should wear at the nearly the same rate. I think this related to some of us who see more brake dust on the right side. I think the guys who have brake pull have what ever causes more dust on the right amplified by heavier brake use when towing/hauling. I would really like to find out is why it's the right side 99% of the time? Whatever the cause, DC did not fix the problem with the brake redesign on the 2000 and later Rams.

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover
 
you guys who are wearing fronts in 10k miles how are your rear brakes?
My oem's lasted 50k and my replacement (front only) lasted 10k (RF inside pad) Brake place replaced the fronts for a minimal price and showed me that the rears weren't doing much. Said there was a TSB on the pads. (they were too hard or something)
Replaced the rear pads and had 1 ton cyl. installed.
I now realize Ive been driveing on front pads alone. If your rears look like new, it may be because you aren't useing them


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'97 2500 LT 4X4, WHITE,3. 54, AUTO, A/C, 35/12. 5-16. 5 BFG A/T, NO LIFT, K&N, 50K MILES, BOUGHT NEW

'69 SIX PAK B 4SP DANA - SCORCH RED
 
It appears the backs are not adjusted correctly and for the 1 pad wearing before the other 3 you should look at the caliper mountings points or pins and see if it is binding or not centering it's self over the rotor.
 
I have managed to fix my front brake problems but it costs! My problem was the left side- uneven wear and pulling to the left. The dealer replaced the front calipers and put PF pads in the front. They sucked my brake pedal felt mushy and slow to respond. The second time less than three months later the dealer refused to warranty it citing a TSB listed at Fritz's site. They say my air bags are the problem. Put in camper, air up truck to stock heigth, rear proportioning valve does not provide more rear braking. BULLS###. Took truck to Les Schwabs, They have installed an average of 1 set of bags a month for five years on new trucks no problems. I did not have bags the first time my brakes went to crap. Sorry about the length but now for the fix. Schwabs installed a whole new brake set up. I will post the pads when I ask them on monday! Everything else was stock. They adjusted my rear brakes, they looked new! My brakes were better than new!! I added a B-D exahust brake and use it ALL the time. I also lengthend the shaft for the rear valve two inches, and felt an instant improvement. As for the one ton wheel cylinders, According to the info at fritz's site rear wheel cylinders on 2500 5spds and 3500 are the same size. Cause of brake problems diagnosted as rear brakes failing to self adjust, inadaquate front brake design, air bags did not help, hard driving. Look for spots on your rotors between the webs that conect the halves. So far everything is still great!

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'98. 5, 24v, 2500 SLT Laramie, Red/Black, QC, LB, 4x4, 5spd, 3. 54 LSD, Full Castrol synthetics, Camper package, trailer package, Kelsey brake controller, CIPA mirror extenders, Happijac camper tie downs, LineX, 285/75x16, 2" front lift, Pro Comp ES3000 shocks(to soft), rear 5K lbs air bags, GUN RACKS, CB, VA box, boost elbow, PS boost mod, K&N, BD E-brake, modified rear brake valve, 9. 5' Jayco Camper, 20' Bayliner cabin cuddy, Yamaha IT490, Life Member NRA & NAHC
 
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