ONE DEAD KITTY

[Desperado]

Just killed the kitty on my 95 RAM 2500 went to Dodge with the part # that was posted earler the remove and install took about 1. 5 hours. If I had a hoist to use it would have gone alot faster the sound is not that noticable but the boost pressure comes on alot quicker the EGT has also dropped about 50 degress @ highway speeds and up a 7% gread the EGT only came up to 750 degress. That makes me happy and it only cost $46. 00 .

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95 Ram 2500 slight ENHANCEMENTS!!

 

[Archive]

This month I put on a K&N and still could barely here my turbo. Then I lost my cat and what a difference. Now I can tell the turbo is doing something. Cat evidently was to restrictive and not allowing a good flow.

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1995 Extended Cab 3500, 3. 54 gears/Automatic,K&N w/ lost Cat.

 

[danandamy]

Fixing to put the eliminator pipe on the 4x4. The cat looks like it could be a booger to get loose. Got any tips to help get it loose?

Daniel

 

[Paul Herioux]

Dan,
A good torch will help. The factory tends to really overtighten the clamps which leaves a heck of a dent in the pipe. At the shop I normally remove the rear clamp from the cat and heat the raised area around the dent till cherry red then hammer the raised areas down with the ball end of a LARGE ball peen hammer(current choise in tool box is a 32oz dead-blow from Snap-On), this will raise the dent making removal easier. Do the same to the front of cat after muffler/tailpipe assembly is seperated from cat. A short handled 3lb sledge comes in handy for knocking the cat off of the downpipe, just hit on the flanges on either side of the cat.
Little long winded but I hope it helps.

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89 w250, 47rh trans, cleaned up exhaust, Dynomax bullet muffer, 3" lift

 

[illflem]

danandme,
by far the easiest way is to heat the ends of the cat red with an oxy/ace torch. Any other method will take 5 times or more longer. You can then wiggle it to enlarge the fit after it's red and it pops right off, 10 minutes max. The end at the muffler comes off easier because it is slotted, you can also slot the turbo end with an air cutoff tool using care to only cut though the cat, not the pipe. I have never removed any hangers to take out the cat, there is enough play. Notice that the cat and test pipe have locater pins and Vs, you can not twist the cat much because of them. I also use the torch to heat the ends when installing the test pipe, it will fall right together with no pounding.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[PBaker]

I have a '96 and what exactly does the cat look like as I have a flaired or wedged shaped unit that is about foot long, right before the muffler which has about a 2 1/2 foot piece of pipe before it. Is this object the cat which needs to be removed?

Thanks,
Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's, stainless steel rocker panels and alluminum stirrup steps

 

[danandamy]

Flatlander, yes that is the evil monster. It is a cancer on power and should be extracted ASAP #ad


Paul and illflem, thanks loads I had a feeling the blue tip wrench might be called for here.

Daniel

 

[53 Willys]

I am looking for that part # (test pipe) but I can not find the post that it was in. Could someone please post it again.
Thanx Ed

 

[Jeff Burke]

Another method of removal that worked well for me was to take my sawzall and cut the cat off at the intake side. This allows some movement in the system, anf then I used an oil filter wrench to grab and twist out the pipes. The pieces can be welded back together if I ever need to reuse the cat.

The part number I found was #52019170AB.

[This message has been edited by Jeff Burke (edited 03-19-2001). ]