ONE PIECE DRIVESHAFT FOR 2007 3500 SRW QC LWB 4X4 w/G56

[cerberusiam]

I need to get the auto shaft out and measure it compared to a G-56 shaft in on 07 truck and see the difference. The NV5600 is 1.25" longer than the G-56 and it might be such a thing that the auto shaft is the same length as the NV setup.

 

[MarkEkberg]

I just went and measured mine. I am 78 1/4 inches from the front of the flange on the diff to the rear of the seal where it seats against the tail of the t case.

Hoping I can just buy from Dodge. Seems price listed elsewhere is resonable?

 

[cerberusiam]

The slip yoke and flange should be all the same distances. Measure center to center on the u-joint is the best indicator of length of the DS.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Center of cup to center of cup is 71 1/2

 

[cerberusiam]

The automatic DS I have is 75.5" center to center on the caps. The G-56 DS is 73.5" center on the caps. I do not show listing for the NV5600 trans the 71.5" sounds right as it is longer than the G-56.

 

[MarkEkberg]

I have reached out to a place inOH and TX that supposedly makes these things with no response from either. When I walk into my local dodge dealer I will need a part number or they will be a monkey doing a math problem.

Anyone have one?

 

[04blackcherry]

My 5" is from Driveshaft Specialist of Texas. I want to say my measurement was 79+" (QCLB). They have a measurement tutorial to get it right. They will stand behind their stuff. I sent mine back just because I thought something was a little off. They paid to send it back and to get it back to me after they checked it. I even offered to pay to get it back to me.

 

[cerberusiam]

I want to say my measurement was 79+" (QCLB).

Better check that again, your confusing the measurements. We are measuring center to center on u-joints to be consistent. A G-56 is 73.5" and it is shorter than an NV5600.

 

[Mhennessy]

52123162AA is the correct one for your truck. The Mopar shaft is only 4-4.5 inch in the bigger part, necked down to 3" at each end.

The Driveline services DS is a 5" full length and filled with foam to kill vibes. You can get it with the standard flange drive or have them just make an open yoke end and switch to the GM style u-bolt design. The flange drive has its issues.

Finding the 52123162AC is getting pretty scarce. I will probably go with the single DS from Driveshaft Specialist. I think the extra $ is worth the full 5 inch and foam filled.

Cerb, you have me thinking about the GM upgrade to the U-bolt. Is this an option with their package or do I need to outsource the parts? I tow a 5'r and keep it reasonable so maybe it is over kill for me.

 

[cerberusiam]

I never asked Driveshaft Specialist as had already sourced the parts from here: http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/NDT-00107.html


From what I have seen it isn't over kill, it is the only way to get rid of problems especially when you go to the longer 1 piece DS.

 

[Mhennessy]

Thanks for the reply good sir.
I will note in this thread that I contacted Tom Woods drivelines (a well known driveline builder in the jeep world) He is local so I thought I would hit him up but he only deals in 4inch drivelines up to max of 74 inches due to his machine. He stated an aluminum DL to accommodate these trucks would need to be at least 5inch and never dent it. He referenced it as standing on a soda can that will hold a lot of weight until it's dented. This makes me wonder about the OEM line that is being used as I think it was 4inch necked down to 3inch?
It's always interesting getting different opinions even from the respected pros.
I will be ordering from DL specialists in Texas based on the info from this forum.
Thanks guys.

 

[cerberusiam]

The OE is 5" with 3-3.5" ends for 6-8" on it. It is not a full length 5" and according to DL Specialist it isn't adequate for the TQ these trucks make either.

The DL Specialist shaft is a full 5" end to end and filled with a closed cell foam that adds strength, stiffness, and helps the harmonics coming off the diesel engine. Without the foam fill they claimed the DS could deflect under heavy power and ripple hence the fill.

Downside to these one piece shafts on a long box truck is ground clearance, you lose some going to a long 1 piece shaft. As I alluded to earlier someone, not ME this time, managed to ding the shaft on my truck and we had .011 deflection in the middle of the shaft that introduced a vibration. Upside was took a chop saw to each end and sent it DL Specialist and they retubed it for about 1/2 the price of original install.

Have the same shaft on a short bed truck and it has better ground clearance and we have never had an issue with it getting dinged up. Always a tradeoff it seems but switching to the DL Specialist shaft with the open yoke stopped the vibes we were having and the rear diff quit leaking. Had a constant seep on it even after multiple seals and messing with it thats went away with the open yoke and 5" shaft. The flanged rear yoke was just one of those that did not fit quite right and caused issues.

 

[Mhennessy]

I can totally see the decreased ground clearance with the one piece on the LB. Thats a trade off i can work with.
Since you are running this set up what is the difference in inches with the open yoke?
I guess I can just order the yoke and hold it up close to it for the measurement. DL specialist are 3-4 weeks out. I am not in bad shape yet on the two piece but its on the way out.
Thanks again!

 

[cerberusiam]

IIRC, 1.25" longer than the flanged DS. Because the flange is gone their default way of measuring doesn't work I found measuring form center of u-joint to center of u-joint works as well as can be done. Measure from existing center to center then add 1.25" is correct from memory. I found the 1.5" was a little long so backed the slip yoke at the t-case out another 1/4" for more movement. Do not want to bottom that slip joint out if you load it heavy or bounce it hard.

If I can get both trucks here I will check that measurement again on center of u-joint to face of diff seal.

 

[Ozymandias]

I wouldn't drop the flange if your truck was trouble free for 150K miles.
Never touch a (good) running system.

 

[AEdelheit]

The OE is 5" with 3-3.5" ends for 6-8" on it. It is not a full length 5" and according to DL Specialist it isn't adequate for the TQ these trucks make either.

I have had the Mopar 1pc for about 4 years, running EFI live, 37's and tow regularly and no issue with the 1pc same goes for about 8 people I know with similar setups, has anyone actually seen a Mopar 1pc fail other then maybe on a Dyno or Sled pulls?

DL specialist is a great setup just not buying that the Mopar one is inadequate at any reasonable power level.

 

[Mhennessy]

When I first researched the one piece I was set on getting the OEM DL but after reading guys were getting them for $650-$750 I figured I would go with the DL Specialist as I believe they put out a better product and others have said their customer service is top notch. I figure that is worth the extra $2-300 bones.
Another factor was that I can't even find the OEM DL but if I could fine one in the $350 range I would pull that trigger.

 

[cerberusiam]

Vibe issues are endemic with these trucks. The amount of NVH done to limit what eventually gets thru to the operator is eventually ends up being part of the problem, it just doesn't stand the test of time well. The other problem is the cheap AAM u-joints in the factory shafts, the lack of decent and adequate grease in them, and the effort to change them to something better without causing issues.

Add to that the standard approved technique to address vibration issues is flip the flange 180 degrees to see if that changes anything then replace the whole shaft if that doesn't work is telling. With 2 different trucks, different configurations, etc., we ended with the SAME problem being fixed by a 5" DS and loosing the flange that the problem is not more common. That defies the odds and experiences.

Removing the flange removes a known issue, for the extra $150 it is well worth the result in my experience.

 

[AEdelheit]

Vibe issues are endemic with these trucks. The amount of NVH done to limit what eventually gets thru to the operator is eventually ends up being part of the problem, it just doesn't stand the test of time well. The other problem is the cheap AAM u-joints in the factory shafts, the lack of decent and adequate grease in them, and the effort to change them to something better without causing issues.

Add to that the standard approved technique to address vibration issues is flip the flange 180 degrees to see if that changes anything then replace the whole shaft if that doesn't work is telling. With 2 different trucks, different configurations, etc., we ended with the SAME problem being fixed by a 5" DS and loosing the flange that the problem is not more common. That defies the odds and experiences.

Removing the flange removes a known issue, for the extra $150 it is well worth the result in my experience.

So its not an issue with the driveshaft actually failing just vibration issues? I am not in any way saying the Mopar one is better then the DL specialists just pointing out the stock one seems to be able to handle the torque just fine, just has other issues.

 

[seafish]

I have been running the oem aluminum one piece DS with 19.5" Rickson wheels and G tires for 100k miles now and no problems. (knock wood)