Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) open to any gauge installation tips

[MxerChris]

got my autometer Z-series gauges coming from Summit, and will be installing them (pyro, boost, fuel psi) on the a-pillar, and could use any suggestions on installing. like where to route the wires from the guages down the pillar and through the firewall. thanks for any help. Chris

 

[emjay]

I have Autometer Z-series on the A-pillar. I'll tell you how I did it, and hopefully you'll get some good info out of it. I have a trans temp gauge, a pyrometer, and a boost gauge.



First, I cut the tweeter part of the stock a-pillar out, and sanded the stock pillar down real good. I then used 5-minute epoxy to attach the A-pillar gauge cover to the stock one. I did that because I didn't trust screwing or snapping to hold it in place. If you decide to glue it, dry-fit it first, and figure out how you're going to clamp it before you glue it. You won't have time to go looking for stuff once the epoxy is mixed! I removed the tweeter grille from the tweeter and painted it matte black (3 coats) to match the new pillar (I have tan interior).



I ran the wires and the boost tube down the pillar into the fuse box area. There are some sharp edges in that area, so I used a piece of heavy-wall tygon tubing (about 8") to protect the bundle through that area.



There is a soft rubber plug in the firewall, below the master cylinder. It's probably a plug for clutch linkage. That's where I ran the wires & boost tube through.



I have a mag-hytec transmission pan, so I just put the sender in the location provided in the pan for the trans temp sender. Other guys like to put it in-line. You can find out more info on that topic if you search TDR.



There are two plugs on the cylinder head. Make sure you get the right one for the boost fitting.



Also, there is ample info on TDR on installing the pyrometer in the exhaust manifold. I took some else's advice, and unbolted the turbo, and slipped a piece of cardboard between the turbo and the manifold before I drilled and tapped it. The one thing that caught me off-guard was the lower nut on the turbo closest to the firewall. I found it impossible to get to. I ended up TIG-welding a 15mm socket to an open-end wrench with the ends cut off (about 3" of "wrench bar", and welded that to another socket with a 3/8" drive, you might call it an extended crow's foot socket. When you tighten things back up, if the extended wrench is 90 degrees relative to the torque wrench, I believe you will get accurate torque. I read that somewhere, if anyone knows otherwise, speak up!



Good luck!

 

[MxerChris]

thanks emjay, I will be getting the gauges in on thursday but I will be out of town this weekend so I will not be able to start on them till the following week. I will let you know how it works out. Thanks, Chris... ... .....

 

[CoastyAV8R]

I agree with emjay on his post. I will add a few items. Buy a can of paint to match the interior plastic so you can paint your A pillar to match the rest of the truck, mine was black when I got it. You can get the paint from Dodge.



I don't have the tweeter in my A pillar so I pulled my stock one out and I just used the new one. I had to put a screw through it to hold the top securely. Also, as far as where to feed the wires through, I see you have a 5 speed so the clutch master cylinder feed through will be taken. I fed mine through the boot for the main wiring harness then used some RTV to seal up around the wires.



One of the first things you should do is remove the plastic frame around your dash, and the panel below the steering wheel so you can see where your routing the wires. Like emjay said, there are alot of sharp edges behind your dash so you have to protect the wires and pay attention to where your running things.



I didn't remove my turbo when I put in the pyro probe. Some guys do, some don't. If you decided not to, just put some grease on the end of the drill bit and it will catch alot of the shavings. Then use a magnet (I bought a magnet on a retractable wand for $3 at NAPA) that will fit into the hole and sweep it through there until you pull out no shavings.



Geno's has a boost port adapter where all you do is pull the bolt out and bolt in the boost port adapter. Made it a 2 minute job.



Good luck, take your time.



Pat

2001 ETH DEE QC 4x4...

 

[MxerChris]

thanks Coasty, I've been wanting one of the smoothie cupholders from Geno's so getting the adapter would be a good excuse to order both. just put on a set of DeeZee running boards last night and can't wait to get started on the gauges.

 

[C. Harlan]

Or when you tow alot, mount the thermocouple post turbo so you wont go off the wall seeing high EGT's all the time... Pre is ok in some cases, but I prefer post... with pre, you are only getting 3 cylinder temps, as opposed to all 6... . That's my $. 02 worth. .





-Chris-