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Optima Batteries

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"Tuning box" questions

transmission shifter

I have an optima for a different vehicle and cannot get it to hold a charge for 2-4 weeks. It keeps going to Batteries plus and coming home dead. They don't think it is the battery, but can't prove it to me.

I also want to know how others are doing with them.
 
The red top 34/78.



Thank you for your interest and support of Optima Batteries.



I got this response from the Optima website after I told them what type of truck I have. I haven't bought them yet, but would in a heartbeat.



Travis
 
Originally posted by wrichards

I also saw some mounting systems what are you guys using
I put mine in the stock 97' holders. Watcht the hold down screws because they will go in further and could cause damage.
 
wrichards,



I have the blue-tops (deep-cycle RV) in my truck. My first Optimas were the yellow-tops (deep-cycle). Those yellow-tops are several years old now and still going strong in my 1995 truck. One of the factory batteries went bad after about two or three years. (The other factory battery is still working in my diesel tractor. )



The blue-tops have the regular posts for our trucks, plus a 1/4" post with a wingnut for RV connections. I use the 1/4" post for accessories. Also, I intend to use these batteries in our RV when the oldest ones go bad. I'll buy another pair for the pickup. The only difference between their deep-cycle batteries of the same size is the type of connectors that are provided.



Optima recommends the deep-cycle batteries in our trucks, but many drivers have had good luck with the red-tops.



I cycle batteries down the "chain" so that the least critical application has the oldest battery. That usually works out to be the tractor, since I can always replace that one, or charge it, without too much inconvenience.



IMPORTANT:

If you go with Optimas you will need to pay attention to what QRTRHRS posted about the hold-down screws. There have been posts reporting that the screws will rub against wiring beneath the battery tray and cause all kinds of trouble. When I read about it, I cut an inch off each screw the next day. You should do the same if you install any battery that isn't as tall as the originals.



Loren
 
I have had Optima "Red top" batteries in my 1996 truck for about two years now and run them in equipment at work. These are by far the best batteries I have ever used. Simply put, they are spill proof. No spills means no corrosion on cable ends, hold-downs, and battery trays. I have had some last as long as seven years in forklifts which are used every day. They are exceptional batteries and are MADE IN USA, which is very important to me!

I would say if you use your engine grid heaters, go with the deep cycle type. I have the grid heaters disabled on my personal and work Cummins engines. They are a helluva draw on an electrical system and are not necessary for cranking a Cummins in Georgia! :)
 
I have the red tops also, they are nice. But if you are going to get them, go with the new Group 31 size, it;s awsome. Summit and Jeggs both have them.
 
I have red tops in both Rams. Get the larger 800 cca size not the 720. In the 2004, you need to use the plastic adapters. With the little 720 cca (the one Costco sells for $100 and Pep Boys and Autozone sell for $110), use the snap on bottom plate to widen the battery so the factory hold down plate will fit on the side facing the engine, and the notch in the battery box to the outside will not be too big. Pep Boys and Autozone sell this battery at $120. With the 800 cca in a 2004 Ram, use the two snap on extension plates on the sides to do the same thing. With the second gen truck, you can usually just shorten the battery bolts or use a spacer. Note the 2004 has a battery temp sensor on the driver's side. Don't put something underneath the battery, and position one of the six cells directly over it for best results.



I have two blue tops in my little 21' Airstream. AT the SEMA show, Optima told me the yellow and blue tops are the same battery functionally so long as they have the gray casing.
 
Glad to see Group 31's are available. Those are the sizes most often placed in emergency vehicles such as ambulances and fire trucks. Our fire engine has 5 group 31's. One for the engine/transmission electronics, one for the cab tilt hydraulics/foam pump and 3 for everything else.



I dont see the need for deep cycle just because of grid heaters. True they pull a load at startup and cycle too often. But I still think a normal battery should handle this. Aren't deep cycle batteries really only effective in long current draw situations such as trolling motors running all day? If anything the Dodge Cummins is right on the edge of standard and deep cycle and wont pull deep cycles down far enough to make them useful. Just my guess.



I figure twin Group 31's should take care of just about anything. I plan on ordering some of those!!
 
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I was able to snag a pair of 800 CCA Red Tops from Summit Racing when they had them on sale for $85 apiece & $6 total to ship. They did great starting my rig at -14F last week.



Vaughn
 
ONE red top has been starting my truck alone for 2 months now... . I don't care if it dies as long as it dies within the 3 year full replacement warantee. :D



Prior to this I had 2 yellow tops for 5 year worked flawless!
 
Originally posted by JLEONARD

I have a red top in mine..... only one battery.

Been in all last winter and still holding up well.
Isn't that battery box on the 1st gen pretty large? Could you squeeze in two Optimas in parallel if you need a bit more cranking power?
 
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