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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Overflow valve - Need help please....

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I took my overflow valve off to check the spring length and (like a dummy) forgot to note if the ball or small cap goes in the assembly first???



I reinstalled it in the following order: dropped ball into fitting - installed cap on top of the ball - then spring and now it is leaking?? Please help... Thanks
 
shendren - Thanks - I am going to get a new one but in the mean time - (over the next couple of days) I want to make sure the one I have is assembled correctly... ball - cap - spring



It is leaking diesel right now when I try and drive the truck...
 
There are two sealing washers. Did you loose one of them? It both of them are there it should not leak no matter how you have the inside put together.
 
I just got some valves from Marty,I'm alittle surprised he charged sales tx I'm in Ohio about 100mi away. Ups was $8. 50

Bob
 
Joe G. -

The two big washers that go on either side of the banjo type fitting are in place and not leaking - it is leaking around the brass (tapered) bolt that screws in the top. There is a copper or brass washer under this bolt as well - all the parts are in place just not sure about the order of the spring - ball - and ball seat. I am afraid to torque too hard on the brass (top) bolt. I may remove it and put some Teflon tape on the brass bolt to see if that helps the leak - that is after I verify the order of the assembly...



I am going to call some local cummins dealers in the area 1st thing in the AM and try and find a new pressure valve locally. If I cannot source one in the AM I have got to fix the leak till I can get one in mail-order...

Thanks

Jack
 
I can't quite make out the order from the below picture -



Is that the ball sitting on the cap or the cap on the ball on the brass assembly to the right? That's what I need to know.



Found this picture in another post -
 
No luck finding one locally - I tightened up the brass bolt about another 1/4 turn and it seems to have stopped leaking. I will order a new one on Monday.



BTW the local Cummins shops want $89. 00 for a Bosch overflow valve and they told me the Cummins part number has changed from - 3932096 to a 3963593 .
 
The overflow fuel exits the pump through the overvlow valve and through the banjo bolt into the return line.

So it looks to me like the ball should be dropped in to the bolt first with the spring holding it down then the cap screwed on to provide pressure on the ball.
 
If it's like mine there is a ball, a little piece that looks like a derby hat, and a spring. The hat goes between the ball and the spring so that the ball sits in the hat and the rim fits on the spring. If you have the bolt in your hand with the spring up the ball is the top thing and is sitting in the hat.
 
Joe G. - That is the way I assembled the valve BUT when I fired it up and I had a leak - I thought oh S*** maybe I did it wrong... I did not want to screw up my injection pump.



I appreciate you verifying that I was correct -



I did not drive the truck till today (worried about the leak and my assembly order of the parts). WOW :D what a difference stretching the spring made!!! When removed the spring measured 5/16". From reading other posts I knew that the spring should be 1/2" so (like others) I stretched the spring to about 9/16" and reinstalled it. My rough idle I had been blaming on the 370s is gone, and I can tell a significant difference in power... . I will order a new one, as stated above, on Monday. .

If you are reading this and have a 12v with the original O. F. valve I would recommend checking it out.

Jack
 
If you didn't overdo the spring stretch so that it weakened the metal, it will last a long time. I stretched mine and when I get a roundtoit I will get another. That was over 140K miles ago. I have very good fuel pressure. In fact, I have a little too much pressure at times.
 
"call marty tompkins and get a new overflow valve. $25. 888-734-7349"



Are these the non-Bosch valves or are these genuine Bosch valves?



$25 is a lot more reasonable than $45-55 that I usually see these things going for.



Matt
 
Called Marty Tompkins 1st thing this morning and ordered one. He is sending me the OF valve and new seals. Marty is a great guy, i ended up talking to him for about 30 minutes about injectors, delivery valves, pumps, timing etc. He sells an aftermarket 12v lift pump for about $90 - wish I had known about Marty 2 months ago when my lift pump started acting up. His price on Bosch DVs is darn good too - may have to order a set...



Thanks to all for the help and the info on Marty... .

Jack
 
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Matt - I believe they are "Bosch" valves - they do not have the brass bolt in the top like the ones that are on most of our trucks. Marty said that they hold a little more pressure than the stock valves... . You might want to call him to verify this.
 
Hi, I received my valves from Marty today. The box they are in has the name Flag on it. They are made in Germany. The box reads:

1 pc.

82 0767

1 417 413 047

K 004100/61



The part number on the invoice is 1417413047 for the valve.

The part number for the gasket (two are required) is

090222-0071.

He charged me sales tax also and I am in Utah.
 
Cool. Buying "Flag" parts in Germany must be like buying "Standard" ignition parts here in the 'States... lot cheaper than OEM and still gets the job done just fine.



The early P-7100's didn't have the superfluous bolt inside the banjo bolt/overflow valve... . about the only disadvantage to these is that they're slightly harder to drill out to turn into a fuel pressure test port. :D



Matt
 
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