Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Overflow Valve Washer

[Dave Remillard]

I just replaced my overflow valve, however when I received it from the vendor it did not come with any washers. The original one had what appeared to be a rubber washer on the bolt head side of the banjo. I couldn't tell for sure if a washer existed on the pump side. I decided to get some copper washers and use them. Was this a mistake or will I be alright. I have driven it this way without problem, but I changed the supply and return fuel hoses and I just can't get this thing to prime. Probably reaching deep on this one, but I'm getting desperite to get this running again. I've tried all the tricks for bleeding the system, and have gotten it to run, but after a few minutes it dies again like it's run out of fuel. When I remove the filter, it is only about half full. At any rate, I've posted in the 911 forum for help, but was hoping for any new ideas.

 

[PHaller]

I just replaced my overfow valve and I reused the fiber washers on either side to prevent leaks. I think that copper would seal but I don't know for sure. I did not have trouble starting after the replacment.

-Paul R. Haller-

 

[drees1]

The overflow banjo bolt has a washer on both sides of the banjo. It is a steel washer with rubber molded into it so the steel limits the crush on the rubber. These washers in various sizes are used throughout the fuel system.



On a similar note, last summer I pulled my injection pump and when I reinstalled, had a minor seeping at the supply line to the pump body. That was with new washers. I replaced the washers and all was ok for a couple thousand miles, then leaking again. I bought new washers again but not yet installed them. Cummins says some lines crack at the braze or banjo area. The leak is only a little wet and does not drip on the floor or effect starting or performance. Can't even smell it, but it is always wet there. Anyone else seen this??

 

[Andy Redmond]

TO Drees, no but possible.



Ok now onto Mr. 911:



There should be a fiber/rubber encased steel washer on each side of the line. As long as it's snug (3/4" or 19 mm box combo wrench) it shouldn't leak. The copper washers should work, but maybe its best to use the exact replacement.



Carefully examine the banjo on the return line (pump side) to make sure you aren't doubling up on the washers (air or fuel leak, maybe). The old washer may have fallen down lower on the pump or wedged against the pump and block. Get a good light and some fine wire for fishing it out unless its long gone.



With your situation, I think you are loosing prime or have a air leak somewhere. Have you tried putting the old overflow valve back in? Maybe the new one is stuck open.



The prefered overflow valve Bosch part number ends in 093.



Good luck

Andy

 

[Dave Remillard]

Got it Fixed

I finnaly found two locations that could have caused the air leak. One of the bolts for the fuel return line from the injectors was a little loose, plus one of the hose clamps for the supply line was pinching at an odd angle and may have been leaking also. Thanks to all for the help.