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Overloaded tires

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South Carolina and Back .... WOW!!!

TWINS ABSOLUTELY ROCK for Towing

I'm running Michlen Load range "E" @3195# each @ 70psi. I take this to mean 6400# is all the bed of my truck can wiegh, is this correct or is there some kind of safety factor figured in. The rear of ny truck wieghs 3100# empty so I figure that the max that I can load is 3300#. Is this correct or am I totally wrong?

Thanks

Gambler Oo.
 
Yup. That is the max load capacity for the tires, but it doesn't mean the other parts such as wheels and axle can handle the weight. I'm sure you knew that though.
 
That not wholely true, depending on how you load the bed, 15%020 of the load will be on the front of the truck too.



I just installed 285/75 x16 Toyo M055 at 3700 pound per tire rating. Because i had a 2300 pounds of rock in the truck before and the orginal michlin balloned without settling down on the overloads.
 
Like JBlock said, how you load your bed is the key factor. If you take a standard cab, long bed truck with 132" wheel base, load the bed even, you will put about 11 percent of your bed weight on the front axle. Most long bed trucks have the bed mounted about 12" ahead of the center line of the rear axle. The longer the wheel base of your truck, the less goes on the front axle.



Then if you use a 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch mounted dead center on the rear axle center line, you will put no extra weight on the front axle.



If you use a bumper hitch, you will actually take weight off the front axle. In this situation the longer the wheel base the less weight comes off the front. If your bumper hitch is 500 lbs, you will actually have about 650 lbs of weight on the rear axle and the front will be about 150 lbs lighter.



Hope this helps a little... ... .





"NICK"
 
im going to get 245/70 R 19. 5" tires and Aluminum Wheels and the tires are F rated 12 ply at 4080#/tire... . I have a heavy 5th and want to get the margin of safty better than what I have with the stock E's (3415# @80)
 
EricBu12 said:
im going to get 245/70 R 19. 5" tires and Aluminum Wheels and the tires are F rated 12 ply at 4080#/tire... . I have a heavy 5th and want to get the margin of safty better than what I have with the stock E's (3415# @80)





Let us know what you go with. I'll be watching all 19. 5" threads for the next year or so, until my tires wear out. I'm leaning towards rickson, because they have the correct offset on their steel wheels.
 
Forgot to mention the tire... . It is the michelin XDE-MS..... has a 21/32" tread depth... .



I have a spedo corrector that has a switch for 2 different tires so right now I have the stock 16" E-rate tires... In the winter I will use these.



During the warm months, I will use the 19. 5"... . To do this, All I will have to do is switch the spedo switch and adjust the dash-pot for the 19. 5" till it is right on..... Then when I want the 16" tires for winter,... (winter salt is hard on polished aluminum. )..... All I will have to do is switch the switch back to the other one and drive on. This will make the expensive 19. 5" tires last much longer... .
 
Your post about putting larger higher capacity tires on the back of your truck sounds good. what about the clearance between the top of your pick-up bed and the front of the fifth wheel that is over the bed. Have heard of a number of people that had clearance problems especially 4x4,s and were forced to flip their trailer axles to get more clearance. would be easy to check. Just a thought. good luck. Jerry
 
Right now I am level on the trailer... . have plenty of clearance and I have adjustment ability on the 5th if nec. The new tires will raise the truck 1"..... I gained 3" when I did the RV-5 kingpin extension so I could lower the 5th 1 hole if needed but I don't think I will need to.



The 245/70R 19. 5" is the same diameter as a 285/75-16" with shorter sidewalls.
 
Load Range E tires are not usually rated to 70 PSI... . normally 80 PSI. You might want to double check that.



Double the tire limit and subtract your rear axle wet weight.



http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/towing for more info.



But yes - tires are rated to the limit on the sidewall at the pressure on the sidewall.



I will be getting not Rickson but Vision wheels. $160 vs $250... . http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/vision/



Keep in mind that more pressure (i. e. 19. 5's) is better than less pressure when it terms towing/load carrying safety. Why not run them year round?
 
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Those visions wheels, are they Forged Aluminum? or steel?



I bought the Rickson 19. 5" Forged Aluminum Wheel classic 10 hole design for $395/ each



Not running them year round because I don't tow in the winter and I want the rims to look good for a long time so I will switch seasonally
 
Visions are cast aluminum. I don't really know what this "means" in terms of how they will function or hold up versus forged.



I had the Rickson steels, were very happy with them.



Sold them and regretted it then stumbled upon Vision. Still a huge investment - nearly 2 grand to drop on wheels/tires.
 
Forged wheels are made under extreme high pressure, minimizing internal bubbles making it more dense. . and making the wheel stronger... . Lighter weight than steel... . The 19. 5" forged Ricksons is 33# and rated at 4500#... . Cast is where melted aluminum is poured into a mold and cooled... . thats it... . Thats why it is cheaper... .



i bought the 19. 5" Rickson new model of wheel called "Eliminator"... Sorta looks like a dodge wheel. I took some pics with a small camera... gonna do some good pics with my SLR and then post on a new thread. .



So as of now, I have 5 Rickson polished Forged Aluminum rims... gonna rotate the spare in the set... . The backspacing does not seem bad... can't see it... sides of the tires are inside the edge of the mopar fender flares... didn't measure but it "seems" like it might be out a slight bit... but not noticably like WHOA!!... not that...



Tires are the michelin XDE-MS 12 ply "F" rated at 4080# @95 psi. tread is 22/32nd thick... . For empty pressures, I put the fronts at 50# but I might up it to 55 or 60 since the weight is 4300#... . The rears are set at 45# since it is light... I am trying to get a load-air pressure chart to see what pressures need to be for what load...



With that, the ride is like my "E" rate at 50-60# When I up the PSi on the front of the new tires, it might be a little rougher but I believe it will be OK. So look for the tire update tomorrow night with pictures...
 
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Those #'s 10K and 11K, is that the Dana 60 and Dana 80?



I didn't worry about the Axle rating because the 3500 had the same axle as the 2500... The dana 80... the 3500 is rated at 12,200 GVW so that is higher than the 2500... . same axle , higher rating..... hhhmmmm. So, the F rated tires will have better controll and will roll cooler and last longer... . Same tread width as the "E" tires (with the 245 "F" tires)
 
To my knowledge it's the Dana70 and Dana80.



check it out: http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/pdfs/



If you're talking about 19. 5's I would not stop at F. Load range G and H tires are nearly same price so why not go for them while you're spending $200 per tire. H might be more than needed. I had LR H's and was very happy with them. However, Rotating or changing a flat with 100# wheels is not an easy task.
 
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