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p-pump conversion...?

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Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

More's the pity if 24 valves can make more power, because they haven't. It's also easier to talk 600 than deliver. Come to May Madness and find out who talks the talk and who walks the walk.



They can't? HVAC is MOSTLY #2 only, and runs 12. 0's. Jim Fuller is in the 640's AT LEAST with #2. Not knocking ya Joe, I respect the heck out of ya for what you did in the past, getting attention to this whole thing, not to mention MM.



I would LOVE to goto MM, but it falls the week before finals for me. Kinda bad timming. :(



So ya got a HX60 now? :confused:



Andrew



How did thread end up like this? Anybody got any parts for the conversion, more then has been listed already? Oo.
 
Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

? Stop scaring Greg, DD will do right by him.



What ya mean Skeered



. Cummins had it right in 2001. 24 valves rule.



I might be knocking on that door Joe. I too want a single turboed truck. 600 hp is not out of the question. Drug free!!!
 
Originally posted by TxDieselKid



How did thread end up like this? Anybody got any parts for the conversion, more then has been listed already? Oo.



We better get back on the subject. Moderators might close this thread on us... . :-laf :-laf :-laf #@$%!
 
The highest single turbo hp for a 24 valve with VP44 is Diesel Dynamics' 584 hp. Both Jim Fuller and Nowel Thomas run twin turbos, nothing against that but we know twins add a lot of hp, maybe 100. Twins should put ol' Sickly over 700 hp, keeping the 12 valve comfortably ahead :cool: And, if poor old Sickly were given a shot of nitrous, maybe another 200 over that. . .



To keep it on topic, go for the p pump conversion, but use the correctly valved head too :D

Abbreviated parts list

P pump

brackets and oil feed line

custom injection lines (if using the inferior overvalved head)

gear housing

gear

custom bracket to mount the ecm on the frame rail

lots of tape to tie off all those useless wires--no sea of electrons needed :cool:

[actually the error code in the ecm says injecton pump not found or failed, but the ecm is too stupid to figure out why the tach still works and the engine runs just fine].



See y'all at May Madness; everyone with horsepower will be there.
 
You guys scared me with this P-Pump conversion discussion. I know as we all get older that our P-Pumps put out less pressure. My Urologist told me that I would just have to live with this problem. But based on this discussion it looks like I can fly to Las Vegas and Joe might be able to help me out. :)
 
Originally posted by Pit Bull

But based on this discussion it looks like I can fly to Las Vegas and Joe might be able to help me out. :)



If you want Joe handling your p-pump that is fine by me, I'll get my girl friend to help, she is great with this kinda stuff... ..... truck stuff that is. :p



Really she is, I can show her a truck, and she can point out twins, or a p-pump, she is great. :D



Heard someone called Scheids and asked about this, the reply they got was, "We have a couple of shop trucks, but will not do this due to emmissions. " :{



Andrew
 
Off topic...

Drew: My girl TIG welded last night!



On topic...

Joe: I laughed like crazy when I read your post... . So, if the tach works... what else will continue to work? HVAC? cruise? speedo? 47RE with lockup and OD?



Matt
 
When I visited DD back in Oct. I asked about the conversion since I'm really interested in simplicity. They said "Lots of work", including a new cam for the lift pump and R&D on welding the cam position sensor to the P7100 gear drive.

I figured a new cam would be great, and with a stick shift and aftermarket tach you should be able to get away without the CPS, but when I asked they were kind of vague as to why you needed the CPS.

The big thing in my mind is the new fuel lines, after reading Joe D's posts I'd probably just swap to the 12V head. I'd thought the 12V and 24V blocks were the same but others alluded to differences. Will a 12V head work on a 24V block?

I'd like to rip all the electronics off the truck at the first sign of a problem. The only thing I worry about is keeping the ABS for legal protection in case I have an accident.

My plan would be: 12V head, DD cam and injecters, mild pump, current turbo and replace all the factory gauges. I don't use the cruise much, and I can always install an after market unit. And make the rest work with out the **** micro chips in the circuit!

So can someone tell me where my thinking is flawed?
 
Originally posted by 85CJ





So can someone tell me where my thinking is flawed?



I bet the conversion would cost more than you would spend on the average late model 24 valve in the 1st million miles. Why not sell your 24 valve and buy a 98 12 valve? I guess that might not be as much fun ;)
 
Pit Bull,

I've thought of selling this one and buying an older 3500, I know that would be the sensible thing. I'm to invested time wise and emotionally in this one. Besides, it'll be paid off this summer, then I have the money I used to send to D. C. every month for "improvements".
 
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