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p0148 fuel delivery error problem

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Trany codes P0822, P0973, and P2709

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problem started a while back after I had swapped my factory nozzles out for some used ddp50's and has run like crap with poor fuel economy and worsened performance, ok so finally got around to pulling injectors out and sending to my local bosch common-rail authorized injection shop, and tested, they failed on return flow bad and had a large spread on flow between them, so 6 rebuilt injectors and one new nozzle later they are all within bosch specs (other than 50hp flow increase), I reinstall them being careful of procedure to avoid leaks with cross over tubes (tighten injector hold downs then backing off then installing cross over tubes to just barely snug, tighten back hold downs and torque cross over nuts to 40 ftlbs) so after driving the truck is still acting up and under wide open acceleration in high rpm's the truck bucks in and out and some times truck feels weak and other points pulls like a freight train, I found a Chrysler checksum procedure to follow but curious if this sounds familiar to anyone and something I could skip right to. haven't watched or check rail pressure. but problem never had a problem until I swapped nozzles and now I know injectors and nozzles are good and fresh off of test bench. also it keep throwing a code for fan speed? doubt its related but not sure?
 
Don't overlook the fan problem. A shorted or partially shorted fan can take down (or alter) the 5v circuit for the sensors. If you want to test, unplug the fan and go for a spin. Just don't sit idling too long and shut off A/C or it will get warm.
 
there is fuel sitting in the pressure reliefe valve and according to bosch shop if it isn't dry then it has pooped and will leak and not function right now. has anyone had experience with that, also have heard there are aftermarket valves that pop at a higher pressure and still safe for your injectors. and cheaper
 
the prv valve can cause the p0148 but you need to do a different check to confirm, the banjo fitting on top feeds a line that returns to the filter. there is a check valve that keeps a small amount of pressure in that line from other drain sources, normally there is a air pocket that keeps the top dry but do this to confirm, take the banjo bolt off and place a ziplock bag over the banjo and line and start the engine, tap the throttle to the floor and immediately take your foot off, this causes a peak spike in rail pressure. have someone watch it to see if anything comes out while you do the throttle. do not go higher pressure. the best place to get one is genosgarage.com genos has a bargain you can not pass up they have a complete rail, pressure valve and rail pressure sensor for $289 part #4929618
 
take the banjo bolt off and place a ziplock bag over the banjo and line and start the engine, tap the throttle to the floor and immediately take your foot off, this causes a peak spike in rail pressure. have someone watch it to see if anything comes out while you do the throttle.

CKelley1 is correct in checking the PRV for a failed condition. I would perform a bit differently... . unplug the FCA to increase pressure to max instead of tapping the pedal to WOT. I would place a zip lock baggy over the top of the PRV too, once the well has been cleaned/dried out before testing. Mine sprayed fuel all over the underside of my hood and made a mess, you would not want to have anyone nearby, especially over the top of the PRV watching to see if there is a leak... If it is failing, there will be fuel in the well after the test.

You may have a bad FCA...
 
fca "clicks" when you cycle it on then off, so supposedly that means it's good

Not necessarily, that's just the solenoid, the actuator slide could be sticking or hanging up from wear or debris in the fuel. If you have a buddy close by with a donor truck you could swap FCA's to compare.

If you can prove it is the FCA by swapping with a known good one, you may get by with a heavy dose of fuel conditioner (or TCW3 2 stroke oil) to free up your current FCA, but for around $100 you can get a new one.

Here is an old thread from DTR that addresses the possibility of a shorted AC/Fan wiring harness that sag2 mentioned above. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=81936
 
jjpage I agree with your way, also that ac/fan harness hit me on two of my trucks and I stopped it on two more before it became a problem.
 
jjpage I agree with your way, also that ac/fan harness hit me on two of my trucks and I stopped it on two more before it became a problem.
Hey, No sweat CK, if I've learned anything at all over the years, it's that there is almost always more than one way to skin a cat!:)
 
well fixing wire harness, but what kills me is this thing ran like a raped ape before I ever swapped nozzles and since have rebuilt injectors and all flow really close to each other and tested good before reinstalled and still runs like ***, what could have happened while taking injectors out to swap nozzles and not run right since? and now injectors are know to be right! but next is a check of prv and go from there
 
oh, and is rail pressure relavent strictly to rpm(I noticed on laptop that it basically doubled pressure from idle to 2000rpm)? this thing only acts up under hard acceleration and curious if it does leak how much pressure/rpm will it take to spray fuel out prv?
 
Disconnect the banjo from the PRV and unplug the FCA when testing. The rail pressure should max out and if it is going to leak it will.

Check fuel pressure at the CP-3 also, you could have a weak LP.

You also could either a bad FCA or a bad COV or even a bad CP-3. Need to check rail pressure when the bucking occurs to see if it is really fuel delivery problems.
 
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