Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) P0216 Code and Cold Weather

[JoeCanuck]

Wind effects the rate of cooling. Your fuel, (or deer or anything else), can only cool down to the temperature of its surroundings. If there's a wind, it will cool to that temperature faster.

 

[JDriscoll]

P0216 Code and Cold Weather--More trouble and new codes.

Well the truck had been running fine since my first post. Today is a different story. The temps were a little bit warmer, 8 degrees this morning, but the stumbling came back. The truck acts like it isn't getting enough fuel. This time the CEL came on. On the interstate on the way to work when I was going uphill, 40 mph was about all I could get out of it. When I finally made it to work I checked the codes with the key and got:



1693-again

0216-still

0237-first time

0112-first time for this one too.



I am thinking about replacing the MAP and IAT sensors tonight, anything else I should look at. Could the sensors be bad and cause the stumble and reduced power? This stuff is getting pretty old.

 

[JLandry]

Could the sensors be bad and cause the stumble and reduced power?

Absolutely!



If they turn out to be the source of the problem, you wouldn't be the first to experience it.



Good luck,



John L.

 

[KLauber]

i had the p0216 once, but i had a fass pump installed and havent seen it since. clear the code and see if it comes back anytime soon, if so, you will have to put in some cash for a new injection pump.

 

[JDriscoll]

My truck still isn't running right. I cleared the codes and ran the truck again. Codes P0237 and P0112 still come up, but the 0216 code is gone. The truck starts and idles fine, but it doesn't have any power. Fuel pressure (measured at the VP44) is 15 psi at idle. My boost gauge hasn't shown anything above 6 since this started happening. I replaced both the MAP sensor and the IAT sensor, cleared the codes and ran the truck again. The 0237 and 0112 codes both came back. I checked both sensors and there is 4. 98 volts at the MAP sensor and 4. 97 volts at the IAT sensor. What should I look for next? This is really starting to get old.



Thanks for any suggestions,

John

 

[JoeCanuck]

I think it may be time to talk to a diesel mechanic. You're right. The two codes are; P0237 MAP Sens Voltage Too Low, P0112 Intake Air Temp Sens Voltage Low.

You could be having ecm issues. It may be supplying 5 volts but it's not reading enough voltage.

 

[DanielHaney]

You have answered my question

Thanks guys. I just joined TDR and got my password today... went online and BAM you all answered my question. Got the P0216 code about three months ago. I have a well used 01 Ram 2500 (210000 miles) and looks like I am on my second vp44. Warranty handled the first one. I guess I'll try the Reman from TheDieselstore. I have already cleaned the tank, blown the lines, replaced my lift pump (x3) and still runs like crap. Just wanted to make sure it was the VP44 and sounds to me like it is after reading these posts.

 

[Bob Cochran]

I had these codes and it was caused by my Adrenaline module because dummy me forgot to reconnect the negative leads back on the battery. Yes the truck ran so bad it would not even spin the tires on loose gravel.

My truck still isn't running right. I cleared the codes and ran the truck again. Codes P0237 and P0112 still come up, but the 0216 code is gone. The truck starts and idles fine, but it doesn't have any power. Fuel pressure (measured at the VP44) is 15 psi at idle. My boost gauge hasn't shown anything above 6 since this started happening. I replaced both the MAP sensor and the IAT sensor, cleared the codes and ran the truck again. The 0237 and 0112 codes both came back. I checked both sensors and there is 4. 98 volts at the MAP sensor and 4. 97 volts at the IAT sensor. What should I look for next? This is really starting to get old.



Thanks for any suggestions,

John

 

[EricBu12]

Welcome to the TDR Daniel!!

Hope you find all you need to find to get your rig runnin' good. Use the search feature to ask other questions and find Archival threads

 

[JDriscoll]

Just wanted to update the thread. I think I dodged (pun there) a bullet with the 0216 code. I'm pretty sure it was due to the fuel gelling in the cold weather. I cleared the codes and has not come back. The truck still doesn't have enough power to get out of it's own way, and the 0112 and 0237 codes won't clear. I replaced both the MAP and IAT sensors with no change. I then checked the voltage going to and comming from each sensor and they were within specs. Next I checked and cleaned all of the grounds that I could find, no change, so I'm thinking bad ECM at this point. I finally broke down and took the truck to the dealership (probably should've skipped this and ordered the part). They reached the same conclusion I did, bad ECM. I have ordered a new ECM (online) and it should be here next week. I hope that will solve the problem. Thanks for everyone's help on this. If it wasn't for the TDR I know I would've been stuck paying full price at the dealership. By ordering the part and replacing it myself it will cost less than half of what the dealership would've charged.



Thanks,

John

 

[JDriscoll]

The new ECM is in and the truck is running great. By doing the work myself I paid about 1/3 the price a dealer would've charged.

 

[JLandry]

The new ECM is in and the truck is running great. By doing the work myself I paid about 1/3 the price a dealer would've charged.

Congratulations! Please keep us updated.



John L.

 

[Gordon Maney]

My truck started fine this morning, plugged in, at –24 degrees F. It idled fine, but then as I took off down the street it, it ran well, was accelerating, and then it dropped out and would not to over about 10 mph. I limped around the block a few times to see if it would come out of it and it did not. I got some of the diesel 911, put it in, and then it was fine. I ran it 70 mph on the highway with no trouble. Then, after work today, it did it again, but not quite as bad. I added nothing, and the truck just came out of it. That makes no sense to me, as it has plenty of anti-gel now.

I am wondering if it is this code mentioned above.

I am probably the only person who does not know, but how do you read codes? There is a procedure with the ignition switch?

 

[RAJohnson]

I am probably the only person who does not know, but how do you read codes? There is a procedure with the ignition switch?[/QUOTE]



Turn your key from off to on three times with out starting the truck. On the third time leave it in the on position and watch your odometer, it should start blinking and show both the ECM PCU codes.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Will a perfectly normal truck have no codes, or will some code appear then, too?

When you say ECM PCU, those are two categories? ... or? What does that mean?

 

[RAJohnson]

Will a perfectly normal truck have no codes, or will some code appear then, too?



When you say ECM PCU, those are two categories? ... or? What does that mean?

Sorry for the confusion: It should be PCU & ECU. Off the top of my head I can not remmember what PCU stands for.



A perfectly normal truck would show no codes. The PCU will flash first and show any codes it has. Then the ECU (Electronic control unit) will flash next and show any codes it has, if it has any.

 

[JLandry]

Will a perfectly normal truck have no codes, or will some code appear then, too?



When you say ECM PCU, those are two categories? ... or? What does that mean?

Gordon,



In the Dodge truck world, the computer bolted to the driver's side of your Cummins engine is referred to as the ECM (Engine Control Module). Gasoline powered Dodge trucks don't have this.



The computer bolted to the passenger side firewall under the hood is called the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). It does just what the name suggests... it controls the powertrain (transmission), but also the charging system and many other items not handled by the ECM. In gasoline powered vehicles, this computer is referred to as the JTEC (Jeep Truck Engine Controller) and it does control the engine as well as the powertrain.



DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) can be set by the ECM, PCM, or other computer in the truck such as the airbag computer or the CAB (Controller Anti-lock Brake). If the fault that causes a DTC affects vehicle emissions, then the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) a. k. a. "Check Engine Light" on the instrument cluster will be illuminated.



It's important to understand that DTC's may be active (current) or inactive. Also understand that DTC's may be stored without the MIL being illuminated. So to answer your question... yes... a truck can appear perfectly normal yet may have DTC's active or stored and you wouldn't even know it unless you checked. This is why it's worthwhile to invest in a code scanner for your tool box to read and clear DTC's. They're available from any auto parts store or even Wal-Mart.



Best regards,



John L.

 

[MDowns]

this morning

it got down to about -2 F last nite where im at. . got up at 5:30 am. . had the truck plugged in and it started fine. . got about 20 miles away from home and the truck started cutting out and finally died. . started back for about 1 minute and died again. . fuel pressure was 0 but fass was pumping. . is this gelled fuel?? got 2 codes, 216 and 1691. . wondering if it could be gelled fuel or if its my injection pump

 

[JDriscoll]

My truck threw the 216 code while the fuel was gelled, but I did not see the 1691 code. The fact that there was no pressure but you could hear the FASS running may be due to gelling. I noticed the same thing on my truck, but I was never sure if the fuel was gelled in the filter canister and not reaching the VP44 (I only have the HPFP, not the full FASS system) or if it was gelled in the small diameter line I have running from the tapped banjo bolt on the VP44 to the fuel pressur Isolator. You probably already know this but I'll post it anyway,



P1691 Fuel Injection Pump Controller

Calibration Error

Internal fuel injection pump failure. Low power, engine

derated, or engine stops.





I would suggest you use a code scanner to clear the codes, run the truck and see if they come back. Some auto parts stores (Autozone for sure) will read codes for free. I went in to see if they could clear them for me, one guy told me they couldn't clear codes as it was against company policy. I went back the next day and a different guy cleared them for me. I did end up buying a cheap code scanner for $50 and it seems to work well. Another thing I learned will searching the TDR for a solution with my truck is that more than a few people reccomended changing the fuel filter if you suspect the fuel has gelled. I don't think it would be a bad idea. Good luck and keep us posted

 

[ShawnS]

wow it was -7 here in pittsburgh. my buddies batteries were dead. they are less then 4months old. just had too jump them and he was hot dogging down the road. he got the hot rod vp44 with 6months of life. sorry too here about ur pumps guys