P2201 Code

[Topzide]

You should be able to take a magnetic reach tool to fish out your lost tools or at least let service dept know they're in there and could they assist you in the retrieval. Sorry to hear about the defeat and costly trip to the dealer!

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Sorry to hear the sad story. Mine was not easy by any means but fortunately I had the right tools for the job. Cannot recall for sure now which bolt was which but one was a "cap nut" type bolt, probably the top for the bat cable and one below, as you mentioned was at an angle so I had to cobble together something for that. And of course the bolt heads are all different so I had half the garage out there including deep and shallow sockets before finishing. Metric of course. If you did not have one I found six point sockets worked the best on the hard to access bolts. 12 point tend to slip. I am surprised the impact didn't work. The snap torque of an impact is amazing. My tool is a Milwaukee impact with something in the neighborhood of 450 ft lbs of torque. Amazing tool. I guess you can add this to the loss column and I hope the win column is much better. Maybe the Cummins Gorilla tightened this bolt too.

 

[Cummins2014]

Sorry to hear the sad story. Mine was not easy by any means but fortunately I had the right tools for the job. Cannot recall for sure now which bolt was which but one was a "cap nut" type bolt, probably the top for the bat cable and one below, as you mentioned was at an angle so I had to cobble together something for that. And of course the bolt heads are all different so I had half the garage out there including deep and shallow sockets before finishing. Metric of course. If you did not have one I found six point sockets worked the best on the hard to access bolts. 12 point tend to slip. I am surprised the impact didn't work. The snap torque of an impact is amazing. My tool is a Milwaukee impact with something in the neighborhood of 450 ft lbs of torque. Amazing tool. I guess you can add this to the loss column and I hope the win column is much better. Maybe the Cummins Gorilla tightened this bolt too.

I will probably be doing that upstream sensor in the near future. I will do all I’ve read , remove the fender liner , sounds like the air filter hoses too. It’s oil change time anyway , so I’ll get the oil filter out of the way . I’ll get one of those 7/8 sensor sockets , they sound like they make getting the probe out a bit easier. It’s sound like between getting to things from the top , and thru the wheel well it’s not a terrible job to do . There will be no rush on my part on how long it takes , if it gets tedious, I’ll step away, and come back to it later . Plus I got a couple sons that are pretty handy if needed . Thanks for the tips .

 

[rrnut-2]

Yup, I used a Milwaukee impact wrench as well. Great tool! It was the bottom bolt on the bracket that I couldn't get out. Top bolt came out easy.
All of the sockets that I had out were 6 point and like you Mike, I had a pile of tools out and on the floor. I also dissembled a few more things than I had to.

I am going to tell the service tech about the tools, and see if he can retrieve them for me. That ratchet was expensive.

Jim B

 

[Mike Wenrich]

I did not have an issue with the oil filter being in the way but can't hurt since you will be there anyway. I used an end wrench on the sensor even though I have the socket you mention since it's a tight spot for a socket. Once broken loose it twisted out pretty easily. But....there is always a but....I had to free up the long pigtail to the module so the "tail" would unwind. I rerouted the lead different than the assembly plant to make it easier to remove if needed. And it was needed as the first one failed. Guess you could also cut it but you have to remove it anyway.

 

[Cummins2014]

I did not have an issue with the oil filter being in the way but can't hurt since you will be there anyway. I used an end wrench on the sensor even though I have the socket you mention since it's a tight spot for a socket. Once broken loose it twisted out pretty easily. But....there is always a but....I had to free up the long pigtail to the module so the "tail" would unwind. I rerouted the lead different than the assembly plant to make it easier to remove if needed. And it was needed as the first one failed. Guess you could also cut it but you have to remove it anyway.

Don't want to cut it , core charge is $170 for the Mopar ,and 229.50 for the cummins. If they are cut they won't refund the core charge is what I was told .

The one from a Mopar parts vendor show the bracket ,the cummins does not . Are you saying it would easier to just take the whole works off the block , bracket ,and all ?

 

[Larry Willard]

I don't recall having any problems, took 2 1/2 hours. I took out wheel liner, removed oil filter and the hardest part was getting the sensor loose in the elbow. It was on my '13.

 

[Timd32]

Late to the party here, but found the attached directions.

You can always try again.

I don't know the name of the cover where your tools are, but if you need directions on that and know the name I can look.

I'm busy tomorrow but will take a look when time permits in case you need something else.

Even for the pros says level B 1.1hr on this one.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

If I'm clear what you are asking, yes. Remove the entire bracket with the module. You cannot get to all four tiny screws that hold the module to the bracket. But it looks like Jim had a problem with that. My Cummins part came with the bracket in a box labeled MOPAR or something like that. I was surprised when I opened the box and saw the bracket. And you are right. I remember now that they wanted the old part. I gave them my original and offered the Dorman part back to them (Amazon) but they did not want it. You might think it would be a good idea to see what failed but it might not have been a Dorman decision. Just Amazon return policy.

 

[rrnut-2]

Mike, you are right. You have to take the bracket off in order to get to the rear little bolt that holds the sensor to the bracket. The bolt that I could not get out was the bottom one that holds the bracket onto the engine. To make matters worse, this is a combination bolt/stud that ground wires hook onto. So you take the nut off the stud part of the bolt to get the ground wires off, and then pull the bolt/stud out without damaging the stud.

The module that I had bought was from Redline Products and there was no core charge. Somebody else said that the sensor could be cleaned with carb cleaner. I did that but it didn't work.

Jim B

 

[Cummins2014]

Mike, you are right. You have to take the bracket off in order to get to the rear little bolt that holds the sensor to the bracket. The bolt that I could not get out was the bottom one that holds the bracket onto the engine. To make matters worse, this is a combination bolt/stud that ground wires hook onto. So you take the nut off the stud part of the bolt to get the ground wires off, and then pull the bolt/stud out without damaging the stud.

The module that I had bought was from Redline Products and there was no core charge. Somebody else said that the sensor could be cleaned with carb cleaner. I did that but it didn't work.

Jim B

This is all good information from you ,Mike ,and Tim32. I have been dealing with this sensor now for a couple weeks or so . So Mike it sounds like it's not necessary to get that bracket ,it just comes off ,and the new module bolted back to that ? As said in one picture online it showed the bracket ,whether it comes with it or not ,I don't know . Its the only vendor I saw that showed the bracket .It was an actual photo ,those red spacers showed on it .

I have found several vendors for this sensor . I can get that part either from Cummins locally or on line, or a vendor on line for the Mopar , both are a Cummins product . Part # for the Mopar is R8210084AA. If bought from Cummins the part # is 4326873RX . They are all reman . Prices differ ,and if interested I can share all the prices , from Cummins is more expensive ,found one online for the Mopar which is very reasonable . All are subject to a refundable core charge ,the one I checked on ,they supply free shipping back on the core for the refund . Thanks all.

 

[Cummins2014]

Late to the party here, but found the attached directions.

You can always try again.

I don't know the name of the cover where your tools are, but if you need directions on that and know the name I can look.

I'm busy tomorrow but will take a look when time permits in case you need something else.

Even for the pros says level B 1.1hr on this one.

View attachment 132831

Nice detailed instructions on that sensor . Thanks

 

[Cummins2014]

Mike, you are right. You have to take the bracket off in order to get to the rear little bolt that holds the sensor to the bracket. The bolt that I could not get out was the bottom one that holds the bracket onto the engine. To make matters worse, this is a combination bolt/stud that ground wires hook onto. So you take the nut off the stud part of the bolt to get the ground wires off, and then pull the bolt/stud out without damaging the stud.

The module that I had bought was from Redline Products and there was no core charge. Somebody else said that the sensor could be cleaned with carb cleaner. I did that but it didn't work.

Jim B

Jim, sounds like you had fun . I am about to I am afraid . I have a warm garage ,and all the time I need , so if gets too much I will step back ,and come after it a bit later . My truck has not seen any bad roads or salt , that may cause a problem in there . It looks pretty clean on my truck . I don't anticipate any corrosion or rust . I will have that sensor socket , hopefully that makes getting the probe out a little easier .

 

[Mike Wenrich]

For sure you can reuse the original bracket. I was surprised when it came with one. That lower bolt was a problem for me as well but came loose for me. The sensor, as you know, is near the fender well or maybe it's the firewall at an angle which made it a little awkward to get a wrench or socket on it. I have a shorter version 7/8 end wrench but still had to angle it in place. If I recall I was able to tap the end of the wrench with a hammer to snap it loose then it twisted out easily. The second time it only needed a little tug on the wrench. I did leave about a pint of blood behind on the first go around but the second time went better. The way the wiring was routed made it difficult to get to the wire ties and then the insulation also got in the way. The second time was much easier.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Would it be a good idea to blast the bolts with Kroil and let set overnight?

 

[Cummins2014]

For sure you can reuse the original bracket. I was surprised when it came with one. That lower bolt was a problem for me as well but came loose for me. The sensor, as you know, is near the fender well or maybe it's the firewall at an angle which made it a little awkward to get a wrench or socket on it. I have a shorter version 7/8 end wrench but still had to angle it in place. If I recall I was able to tap the end of the wrench with a hammer to snap it loose then it twisted out easily. The second time it only needed a little tug on the wrench. I did leave about a pint of blood behind on the first go around but the second time went better. The way the wiring was routed made it difficult to get to the wire ties and then the insulation also got in the way. The second time was much easier.

Second time ,did you have this go bad twice ?

 

[Cummins2014]

Would it be a good idea to blast the bolts with Kroil and let set overnight?

That certainly wouldn't hurt a think , I am sure going to find out here in the next couple weeks ,need this taken care of. Thanks.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Could not hurt if you have corrosion in that area but my experience with metric bolts/threads is they take a "snap" to loosen then they remove easily. I've busted a few knuckles on them not expecting them to break loose and then spin freely. Just my limited experience though. This problem bolt is difficult to get to and even get your fingers on to remove. It's so near the frame and other items that it's no surprise they moved it on later models.

 

[Cummins12V98]

That certainly wouldn't hurt a think , I am sure going to find out here in the next couple weeks ,need this taken care of. Thanks.

My Machinist friend turned me onto it, works great.

 

[rrnut-2]

I had to use Kroil on the stud/bolt to get the nut off. The information that Timd32 supplied doesn't really show how little room there is in there. Also, I have the Aisin transmission, so the transmission cooling lines are in the way as well. Oh yes, I donated blood as well.

Jim B