Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) P7100 Injection Pump Removal

[SConklin]

I'm removing my stoopid pump, and I've pulled off everything I can think of and see (the 4 nuts on the front, the two allen wrench long bolts on either side of the middle of the pump, the pressure and return fuel lines, the injector lines, the afc air tube, the oil pressure line, the fuel shutoff parts, and the shaft nut and washer). I put a puller on the pump gear, and the gear would not come off. I don't know if it's just pressed on extremely hard, or I'm forgetting something that's preventing the gear from coming off. The pump wiggles around just a little, but it's still set against the timing case for the most part. Is there something I'm forgetting? Shouldn't the pump gear come off, regardless of whether the pump itself is unbolted all the way? Am I just being too cautious, and should just pull harder on the gear? (the puller was working against an awful lot of resistance that seems like almost excessive). Is there something else holding the gear on the shaft besides the one washer and one nut? Any tips or ideas?
Thanks!

Skyler

 

[Signal73]

That is it, but that sucker can be on there! You need to pop the gear, try tapping the puller with a small hammer just make sure someone is supporting the pump when it pops!

 

[JoshPeters]

Make sure the puller is pulling the gear forward while pressing the shaft backward. If it's loose... the pump's I've swapped there is an O-ring seal on the injection pump where it meets the case... They were pretty stiff comming out. I used a pry bar and Lightly worked it side to side.



JP

 

[nascar mark]

Skyler,



As I mentioned to you, it's on there with 160ftlbs on the pump nut. So it will take a lot of pressure to pop the cam gear off the shaft. It will make a big bang when coming off.



PM me if you have to.

 

[Extreme1]

I'd spin a bolt back in to keep the pump from walking around in that bore too much and to keep it from popping back to far when it does go.

 

[WDimig]

i just had my pump off my truck, and it wasnt that bad of a procedure taking it off, there is one bolt that i think you might have forgotten, on the fuel return line, it's under the pump and tworads the rear, is a small screw that is holding that retuen line to the pump itself, i think i used s small 5/16" line wrench to get it off, but that will also keep you from taking out the pump. you might want to get a buddy of yours to help you get the pump out of the truck, it is a little bit heavy and it's in a awkward position, and you dont want to damage the pump shaft or threads when taking it out. pm me if you got any more questions.



wes

 

[Jim Fulmer]

i just had my pump off my truck, and it wasnt that bad of a procedure taking it off, there is one bolt that i think you might have forgotten, on the fuel return line, it's under the pump and tworads the rear, is a small screw that is holding that retuen line to the pump itself, i think i used s small 5/16" line wrench to get it off, but that will also keep you from taking out the pump. you might want to get a buddy of yours to help you get the pump out of the truck, it is a little bit heavy and it's in a awkward position, and you dont want to damage the pump shaft or threads when taking it out. pm me if you got any more questions.



wes

That last bolt your talking about is the one I leave off. When you have the pump thing down and have a pointer for TDC coming off one of the pan bolts it's a 45 min job. There is no telling how many times I've pulled a pump... ... it's my high breakage item.



Jim

 

[SConklin]

I got the return line bolt, and also the bracket was stuck on the bottom of the pump, so I pulled out the small 10mm bolt below that.
I had a guy with a $300 snap-on puller set hook up to it, and we put A LOT of pressure on that shaft, and it still would not even come loose at all. It actually ruined the threads and bent a cheaper napa puller. I have a puller designed for this procedure (the small circular block with two holes in it), however, it is back in illinois. Would this puller work better? I'm going to have it sent to me, and I hope it works. Any other ideas?

Skyler

 

[WDimig]

i had no problems pulling the gear on my truck and i know for a fact that my gear nut had been torqued to 200 ft. lb! , i had talked to the guy who had tuned my truck before i had to replace this gasket and he assured me that they retorqued it to that spec. , i was a bit leary of going to that, so i to her to 150 ft. lb. , even then that was hard to do, cant imagine 200 ft. lb.



wes

 

[Gio]

You will have to pull the gear with a puller,

when I did mine I got all the tork on it I was comfortable with, and than tapped the puller screw, than it popped off.

If you intend to reset that pump,MARK the gear and shaft first.

When I did mine there was no keyway in the pump gear, I had to order a timing set from snap on to set the timing. Good Luck !

 

[SConklin]

I got the pump out. I had a puller designed for this at home, and had it sent to me. That worked right away. I'm still surprised that the other pullers couldn't do the job. I know they were working hard. Anyways, thanks!

Skyler

 

[WDimig]

there is no need to mark the shaft and pump gear, i dont know what your talking about?