Pac Brake

[BaileyFlyer]

I got a new trailer which weighs about 10,000 pounds. Coming down hills in CO can be a real bummer on the steep ones. I was reading an article in TDR and it talked about replacing the valve springs so they don't "float" and hit the cylinders. Do all pac brakes require new springs? Since I have Banks stuff on my truck, I figured i would use their brake too. Its Sunday and they will be closed till Tues so I can't call them. Thanks in advance for the info.



I am also curious to know if my transmission fluid is getting hot. I have a 2001. 5 with the 6 speed transmission, and the Banks Power Pack. I use all the power going up the long grades (egt about 1275) and into the wind (about 30 mph headwind for 3 hours on my last trip) at 70 mph.

 

[Ethdee]

The valve spring change you read about was for the 12-valve engines. You can use any exhaust brake (Pac-brake, BD, Jacobs, USGear, Banks) without changing your valve springs.



I chose a BD exhaust brake because I was looking for more low-end braking. I'm happy with the performance and the quality, but I don't care for the microswitch actuation, so I didn't use that. I wired a relay into the ECM and used that to run the brake (with another switch on the shifter). The reason is there's about a 1-1/2 second delay after the throttle goes to the idle position before the brake is actuated. This is handy, as you can leave the brake enabled, and not have it actuate every time you shift. Plus, there's nothing to maintain or adjust. I don't know why they all don't offer that as an option. Jacobs works that way, and so does PacBrake. I don't know about the others.



The Banks looks like as good a brake as any others. They are all limited by the engine; it can only take so much back-pressure. I don't believe that any horsepower is to be gained by adding a brake, though.



You can add a temperature gauge to your transmission, and there are a couple of places that make auxilliary coolers that bolt to the PTO flanges.



I hope that's a pre-turbo temperature that you quoted. From what I've read, that's too hot for sustained post-turbo temperatures. In fact, that's at the limit of pre-turbo temps, and I wouldn't be comfortable sustaining that.



Since you've got a Banks system, they're probably going to know best what will lower your exhaust temps, or even whether to worry.



Hope this helps,



Jim

 

[Doubleclutch]

Good advice on E-brakes. I have the Pacbrake. Same good product. I wouldn't worry too much about the transmission temp. since it gets warmer going UP the grade in the first place. Auto transmissions are more concerned about exhaust brake operation.

 

[DRR-24V]

Pac Brake !

I believe the Pac Brake is much cheaper than the Banks and will do as good or better. JMO.

 

[Diesel Gunner]

I have a Pacbrake on my truck and pull a trailer that grosses at 10,800. The highest that I have ever run to on EGT is 1100 degrees ( that is pre turbo). I have very serious doubts that BaileyFlyer got to 1275 deg post turbo. My bet would be that the truck would be parked if it ever got that high post turbo.



BaileyFlyer, I could not see your signature, but if you have a 24v engine you do not have to change your valve springs.

 

[BaileyFlyer]

Thanks for the info. I do get 1275 (post turbo) but not sure it is right. It is what the gauge reads, but I have no way to calibrate it. I am in CO and routinely get the pyro to read 1275 at full throttle 5th gear and pedal to the floor (so i have to get off the gas to keep it from exceeding 1275 ----- when towing). Is there a way I can check the pyro gauge? I have made sure all clamps are tight (no pressure leakage downstraem of the turbo).

 

[Ethdee]

Find a shop that does process instrumentation. Tell them you have a pyrometer with a K thermocouple, and ask if they'll check calibration for you. It shouldn't cost too much. All they'll have to do is disconnect the thermocouple and inject a signal to the gauge.



Jim

 

[MikeR]

Only the 12v engines need the HD valve spring swap when installing an exhaust brake.

The 24v already comes from the factory with the HD valve springs.



-Mike

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Hey BaileyFlyer, I would definately get that EGT gauge calibrated. I have my EGT switched pre and post turbo and when pulling the TT uphill I regularly see differences of up to 500 degrees. That would be 500 higher on the pre turbo side. That is why I was having a difficult time believing that you were able to hit 1275 post tubo. I know that if you get to 1725 pre turbo that you should be getting an nice aluminum coating on everything from the exhaust valves out because the pistons would be melting!



Sooo... . my guess now is that your gauge is way off. Post turbo pullin' hard, I may be able to push 800 degrees, but definately try not to.



Did you get the gauge and the thermocouple as a matched set from a single manufacturer? If you did that would probably be where I would start instead of paying to have it calibrated.



None the less it will be interesting to know. Please post and let us know when you do. And, Good Luck.

 

[BaileyFlyer]

My pyro is mounted on the exhaust manifold (pre-turbo) and I do plan on having it calibrated to see if it is really getting that hot. Thanks for the input.



The Flyer... .....



2001 Quad Cab, 4X4, HO Cummins with the Banks Power Pack.

 

[Diesel Gunner]

OK, my misunderstanding! I understood that your EGT probe was post turbo. Now that you say that it is pre turbo it is entirely possible that you are getting 1275 at altitude pulling 10,000 hard. I am sorry if I misunderstood but 1275 post turbo might not be healthy, if it is even possible, under the conditions that you had described.



I am not a diesel expert but am a certified aircraft mechanic and basic principles are basic. Aluminum pistons would not like the temps that would be possible with 1275 degree post turbo temps.



Get it calibrated for your peace of mind if you wish, but my guess is that everthing is working as it should be. By the way, what kind of EGT probe, gauage are you using?

 

[BaileyFlyer]

I was so busy typing fast that i didn't even notice that I had said "1275 post turbo" in my second post. Sorry about the confusion.

 

[jgallentine]

I was at Cummins Mid-America a couple of weeks ago and their service manager said you have to have the computer calibrated for use with an exhaust brake. He said depending on the software, it may be as easy as telling the computer a brake has been installed or it may require calibration. Anybody else heard of this?

 

[Diesel Gunner]

When I installed the Pacbrake on my truck, all I did was plug into the ECM at pin #20. It also required a scotch connector in one of the wires underneath the steering column. Initially this was the wrong wire according to the directions, but a call to Pacbrake resolved the problem. The condition that was created with the wrong wire spliced into was no e-brake with the high beams on. Evidently Dodge changed the color of the wire that is requied to splice into.



The brake works just like it is supposed to and I have had no problems since install 4 months ago.

 

[jgallentine]

I wonder if the additional procedure could be necessary because Cummins is selling the Jacobs model?

 

[DRR-24V]

I'm With Diesel Gunner !

I just followed the instructions sent with the PacBrake (other than the power wire) and it worked great from the GitGo. I think it is the best single Bomb on my rig. Questa Grade with a 5th wheel used to be White Knuckle Time. No Problem Now.

 

[JBlock]

Isopro recall?

Isopro has a few guages that had a calabration shift. and require slight adjustment to read correctly. If you have one, you might need to check it out and turn the adjust screw in the ampifer down per the instructions.