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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) PACbrake Disc

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I thought I could nurse my sticking exhaust brake by lubing the moving parts and flexing the activating mechanism with a wrench. Today the brake stuck closed again and when I flexed the mechanism it moved freely. But when I tried again I still did not have boost. This time I rapped on the brake mechanism with a wrench and obtained boost. It is acting like the disc has come loose from the activating shaft and was sticking closed. Is this possible?
 
cwsoules said:
I thought I could nurse my sticking exhaust brake by lubing the moving parts and flexing the activating mechanism with a wrench. Today the brake stuck closed again and when I flexed the mechanism it moved freely. But when I tried again I still did not have boost. This time I rapped on the brake mechanism with a wrench and obtained boost. It is acting like the disc has come loose from the activating shaft and was sticking closed. Is this possible?



You sure it is not the control valve sticking? SNOKING
 
I've been having similar problems, I've cleaned the control valve over and over and the brake still get's stuck closed, then won't release until I get off the gas and go into neutral, then the brake won't work at all?????
 
The failure mechanism mine suffered was that when starting up after using the exhaust brake while towing the day before I would not have any power or boost pressure. Rapping on the turbocharger or flexing the exhaust brake activating mechanism would free the brake and I would have a day of no problems with the exhaust brake working. The last time it stuck the activating mechanism moved freely but the valve remained stuck. Finally it opened after repeated raps with a tool. I then left it turned off as I towed from Michigan to Columbia SC thru the mountains.



Cummins Atlantic worked with PAC Brake to trouble shoot my brake and concluded a new brake body was required. It works now, and if PAC Brake ever answers my request on where to find PACBrake exhaust brake lubricant I'll buy it and use it.
 
I've gotta wonder, do you guys leave your brake on and use it 100% of the time. Reason I ask is, I do, and have well about 110,000 miles on mine with no issues (have cleaned the valve twice as a pm matter).



I've long believed it was better to use it often as opposed to the occasional use when parts could become carboned up and stick.



Could be I've been lucky and need to be ready for problems.
 
One of the feature of the Bank electronics on their brake is to turn it on after each start up to keep it free. Mine has been on for a year and a half with low mileage, but no sticking. Use it or loose it! SNOKING
 
When not towing my truck is usually used once a week. I turn on the smart box and exhaust brake and use it to help warm up the truck on the road. The truck has 106,000 miles and the trailer 54,000 miles. When towing I turn it on when I start the truck and turn it off only when shutting the truck down. I do not know why it failed.
 
Piers said:
Hi Chuck,

Please give me a call, 1-800-663-0096 & I'll send you down a free bottle of lubricant.



How's that for good customer service!!!! SNOKING
 
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I used to use mine every time I drive, but over the last 2 years I've had this problem. I clean the valve, good fro a while then stuck again. Now it won't work for 30 or so miles then work for the next couple miles, then get stuck again. It won't release unless I get out of gear, I've tried to stay on the acclerator to see if it opens, NOPE, just super high EGTs, it absolutely will not open unless I get out of gear, I didn't think vacuum was affected by the speed of the engine, just as long as the engine was running???
 
Kalaehina, a suggestion. Piers is on the job now, I suggest you ask him to come on over to the Island, trouble shoot your brake and do a field repair. The benefit to PacBrake in PR would be great, and they'ed gain valuable data to aid in future troubleshooting.



Of course it'd be a hardship on old Piers, you know the new guy having to go on road (boat ?) since no one else in the company wants to be away from the family and all.



Good luck, RR
 
Now that would be a business trip! Actually he contacted me and is going to assist me with my problem, now that's customer service! But with Piers that's a given!!
 
I would like to get in on this pacbrake seminar. I have the same problem as Kalaehina. I purchased a bottle of pacbrake silicone oil but my brake still sticks closed. I also have to go to neutral or clutch in to unstick it..... help!
 
My brake has been better lately, don't really know if the thorough cleaning I gave the vacuum switch helped, but it does stuck close every now and then. It's almost like I can tell if the brake is going to get stuck when I hear it engage, seems slower to close then I know it's going to be stuck, so I get off the accelerator and let the thing open by itself. Had a few hairy moments a few weeks ago, the brake wouldn't release and I was in afternoon rush hour traffic in the fast lane, I couldn't get my speed up, my truck was smoking like a locomotive, and cars were lining up behind me, but then again I had the ability to let out a smoke screen at will so that was fun! But seriously I think my brake problems could be related to a vacuum pump problem, possibly oil and crud in the lines too. For now I'm living with it.
 
Guys... .

Your local pacbrake dist should have the lube on the shelf... we stock it and sell it all the time... . if you have the old casting thats painted... . and you don't use the brake all the time... . you can have sticking problems... .



I have 2 older trucks... a 93 and 2000 both fords... . and both have the old painted casting... . both these trucks have over 360K miles and the brake housing has never been off..... but we don't turn them off... ... if we don't want the brake on. . we just touch the pedal and turn the brake off... .



The new housing has been nitrated... . a chemical process that treats the metal and prevents rusting... . what I think is happening. . is the moisture from combustion gets in the brake and shaft... and will create rust... which causes it to freeze or lock up... . the nitrating process stops this from happening.....



The test for this... is when the brake is sticking... . pull the two vacuum lines from the solenoid... . and see if the brake shaft is now loose... . if its loose. . than the problem is the solenoid. . if the shaft is tight... . than its the shaft with dirt and rust... and you'll have to clean and lube it... . You'll have to pull it off to do this.....



If you put GREASE on it. . it will just make matters worse... as any grease will go away with the temperatures that the exhaust brake see's.....



Hope this helps... .
 
My brake butterfly valve moves freely, and I've cleaned the vacuum switch solenoid but the problem will come up every now and then.
 
Kalaehina



The ports in the vacuum solenoid that make it work are small pin holes... . these bias the valve and make it work..... if you are having problems, it could be dirt lodging in the circuit... (hose) that is sticking the solenoid... ... in some cases the only repair is to replace both the hose. . and solenoid.....



Jim
 
I think I may have to do that as that is the only thing I haven't done yet. That makes sense why it will work for awhile then get stuck again, just like clockwork. I can almost predict when it will happen. Thanks for the advice Jim!
 
I have been experiencing the very same problem. I have removed the control solenoid, diassmebled, cleaned and lubricated. Then lubricated exhaust valve assembly. Still same symptoms.



Then, I disconnected the actuator rod from the butterfly arm. While moving the butterfly by hand it was smooth. Actuator could be easily moved by hand also (spring pressure was noticable while trying to pull rod from cylinder). I then discovered that when I pusshed the butterfly closed it would stick. It took a bit more effort to open when closed by hand. Then, I started the truck with the butterfly in the "on" position. After shutting the truck off it was very hard to open the butterfly.



My thought is that I would re-adjust the actuator rod clevis shorter by 1/2 turn and see if this stops the butterfly from closing so tight. I believe that the butterfly is jamming in the exhaust housing probably due to wear in the actuator rod clevis pin and causing it to stick.



Anyone else?
 
Please post your results, I haven't touched anything on the actual brake itself, so it will be interesting to see if your idea changes anything.
 
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