Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) PACbrake Disc

[Diesel&Donuts]

I also suggest checking the vacuum hoses to the Pacbrake. I was having problems with mine and while I was going to dismantle the the exhaust elbow where the butterfly is, I discovered a small hole on the underside of one of the vacuum hoses where it was too close to the exhaust manifold (someone else installed it). I replaced both hoses and re-routed them and now the PB works fine.

Harold

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Well, I shortened the actuator rod by turning the clevis in 2 full turns. I still have the same sticking problem. Although, now it does not have that weird sort of squeak when the butterfly opens.



It seems to me that it would be possible for the actuator to have enough travel on its own to negate the shortening of the rod by only two turns. But it also does not seem to make sense to design the unit to close the butterfly so tightly that it would eventually wear into the walls of the housing enough to cause this situation. Which is my suspicion. Unless the true cause is a warped plate or corrosion.



I installed my brake 4. 5 years ago and it has about 30k on it. Not allot of miles I know but I do use the brake everytime that I drive the truck whether that is driving around town or pulling the TT. I am sure that Pacbrake is going to tell me that the problem is corrosion. I don't think that this is the cause because when I have the pin out of the clevis and plate control arm the valve moves very smoothly and freely until it contacts the wall of the housing. I am of the mind that if it were corrosion on the inside of the unit where the valve plate contacts the casting then a few cycles should scrape the corrosion away and no more sticking.



Well, I could try to second guess them all day. I am just going to call tomorrow am and ask for their guidance.

 

[jelag]

I sent a reply to Diesel Gunner... . but will post it here as well... .



If you have a painted housing on your pacbrake... . you might have sticking problems from carbon... the new design uses a nitrate coating that has less problems...



We have on the shelf. . a lube... that requires you to take the brake off the truck, clean the carbon... . and lube it up... I'm guessing it will last 2 to 3 years on the painted housing design... we have 2 old trucks... both have the painted design and both have been run hard and put away wet for years... . both are over 300K miles... and we've never had a problem...



That said... if you don't run your truck hard... and only have a few thousand miles you might have a problem..... I offered Diesel Gunner a package of the lube, for 10 bucks freight prepaid... . through the mail... . It would last you years... its like 6 or 8 oz and only takes a few drops..... Don't use oil... . it will burn off and carbon up... too much heat... . I might get this pulled as I mentioned a price..... and now my number... 8-5 M-F on the west coast..... with freight this is right at our cost I'm sure... . 800. 445. 4696... . Jack or Bobby can help... . If the powers scold me... . and pull this... I'm sorry..... it was a way to help those of you who might need it... .



Jim

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Well, I have removed the brake, cleaned the crud from the inside an lubricated with the Pacbrake Lubricant that Jelag recommended and had sent down. I also readjusted the clevis back to the original spot per Jim's instructions. And, by golly, it works just like the day I put it on new.



Thank You, Jim, for your assitance with this. Anybody in the area that has a brake that starts to stick give me a call, cause this bottle of lube will last ten years(just like Jim said).



This is very simple to do and not very time consuming, either. I would not replace the unit. Just maintain it.

 

[Kalaehina]

Unusual, but my brake has been working fine for the last 2 weeks??? Didn't do anything to it.