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PacBrake Install

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Flatbed

Just finished the installation of my new PacBrake. It took about 3 hours and I still have a couple little things left, like mounting the switch and tying up a few wire routes. The instructions were ok, but the connections on the in-cab switch may catch a few folks out, because the instructions were not clear enough on hook-ups. I say this because they did not identify the teminals correctly, so it's a 50-50 chance of blowing the fuse the first time you throw it. I blew it first time, but checked the switch out afterward and changed my connections and it worked perfectly after that. Still could be my comprehension skills at fault.



Getting the blank pin out of the ECU connector proved to be the biggest challenge. You have to remove the two bolts that hold the fuel filter to the manifold and move the filter out of the way, in order to see it. But my old eyes have a hard time seeing what I need to see when working in these areas, so it's my problem I suppose. In the process I managed to pull apart my new connector to the MAP sensor and broke one of the latches that hold the pins in the housing... ... ... ..... sheesh. Fortunately my sweet wife came out with the MagLight and patiently held it where I needed it, so I could effect a repair on the connector. I managed to get it together and pronounced it good when the big Cummins started up immediately.



Braking is AMAZING. When you roll out of the pedal and 2-3 seconds later that valve closes, it tosses you forward in your shoulder harness like a big gasser. It works perfectly with the cruise control, but the big test comes later this week when we take off cross country with the 5er.



If you can read and hold a wrench, you can put one of these in. I looked into them a bit before I made the decision to buy and decided that this one would work the best for me in terms of price and performance. It works invisibly until you need it, you don't even know it's there until it engages. Warm-ups are quicker with it on and the sound when it kicks in sounds cool... ... ... . even the wife liked it. ;)



Next up: Jordan Ultima Brake Controller install... ... ... ... ... ... . tomorrow, I think.



Jack
 
When I installed mine, I removed the front wheels and fender liners. Then computer connectors are right in front of you. I didn't even have to remove the connectors. Total install took about 3 hours.



Since then, I added an led indicator in the cab to let me know when the compressor is running as well as a "power off" switch since I have been having problems with the relay (on my 4th relay).
 
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RMachida said:
I added an led indicator in the cab to let me know when the compressor is running.



What a great idea! I would like to know how you did this. Please drop me a few lines when you get time. I just installed my new brake today. What a great unit. Thanks in advance.
 
Remember to check for leaks once after 250 miles or so... . tighten as needed...



You should not have problems with the relay... . in 6 or 8 years we've only replaced one or two... . you have to have a bad connection causing your problem... . check it out... .



We suggest that you not follow the instructions and pull the connector for the ecm... . and when you push the pins into the connector you see that they click in... . we do this from under the truck on a creeper and do not remove anything... .



We do remove the fender liner on the passenger side it simplify the installation... .



We wire all compressors hot with the key... so the tank is always charged... so that later when you add air horns, or air bags you have what you need... .



I think that covers it.....
 
I just picked up a small indicator led from Radio Shack and tapped into the lead from the relay to the compressor. This was done to monitor an ongoing problem, the relay sticking and I didn't want to burn out the compressor.



jaleg,

I really am on my 4th relay in 1 1/2 years. The pressure switch cuts power to the relay but it doesn't open, as if the spring was too weak. Tap on the relay, and the compressor shuts off. The problem gets worse with low temperature i. e. happens more often at -20F than at warmer temps. This is also why I added the power switch since there were times it wouldn't shut off and I didn't feel like stopping, open the hood, and tap the relay. PacBrake has sent 4 relays and some are

worse than others. The one currently installed will go several weeks between events. BTW, I had a 2nd led monitoring the pressure switch for a while, but it worked fine. The leds were used since I can't hear the compressor while driving. Any suggestions?
 
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RMachida



I have 2 suggestions for you... . 1 - find someone with the ability to measure DC current draw when the compressor runs... If you are exceeding the current requirements than you need to decide why this is... . bad connection, bad compressor, underrated relays... relay wired wrong?? etc... 2 - any chance you've changed the cutin / cutout switch to something that is higher than the system is designed to handle... in other words, higher pressure cut out would make the whole thing work harder and burn up the relay... 3 - have you checked the socket that the relay plugs into... . is there arcing on the spades of the relay when you remove it... .



You have to have some other issue causing this problem... these are the same relays used my many vendors in other applications and only over current conditions would allow the contacts to stick... .



Jim
 
jaleg,

I will measure the current this weekend. I just unpacked the compressor (from you, thank you again) and installed it, didn't change any parts. The compressor not shutting off started within a couple of weeks but only rarely. That winter, it started happening routinely, so I contacted PacBrake. They sent some new relays (twice). The fuse wasn't blowing so I had assumed that the current draw was within limits. Also, no arcing on the relay socket and checked the wiring multiple times and it matches the diagram.
 
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