Pacbrake PRXB installed.

[tjm]

ok installed this on sunday. I think its working.

ACC on and the compressor fills the air tank. leave the key where it is for an hour and the compressor doesn't cycle so assuming no air leaks.

pacbrake on, cold start:

The pacbrake warm up feature activates. I can hear what sounds like quite a bit of air coming from the passenger side if the car while the pacbrake is engaged. I suspect that air is coming out of the brake cylinder exhaust port. The same air sound occurs when driving when the brake engages. It does slow down the truck (no load) but the slow down effect hasn't really wowed me yet.

Is that air escaping sound normal when the pac brake is engaged?

 

[bcbender]

Air cylinder should not leak air when engaged.. sounds like you have an air leak on a line or fitting. when engaged air cyl closes the plate, then when dis-engaged it will vent to atmosphere... there si a "shooosh" sound when the valve returns but that's it.. no continuous air sound.

 

[tjm]

Air cylinder should not leak air when engaged.. sounds like you have an air leak on a line or fitting. when engaged air cyl closes the plate, then when dis-engaged it will vent to atmosphere... there si a "shooosh" sound when the valve returns but that's it.. no continuous air sound.

Thanks @bcbender . Will take the wheel off and the plastic shroud to trouble shoot.

Maybe I'll get wowed after done.

 

[bcbender]

I loved mine!! But with 4:10 RaR and NV5600 it would really hold a load back and almost eliminated my need for service brakes

 

[tjm]

Ok the v clamp between the brake and the turbo outlet was loose. Works better now.

Sort of can't wait to see what happens when I'm carry a load

 

[Ozymandias]

Hope you greased that connection very lightly before putting it together, so it can center itself correctly while in use and retighten it after a couple days.
In the past I put mine always dry together and had always trouble with leaks, then @AH64ID recommended the grease theory and bang, perfect.

And second, with the EB you hear every minor leak at the manifold the first time whistle, I had to fight these too.

 

[tjm]

Hope you greased that connection very lightly before putting it together, so it can center itself correctly while in use and retighten it after a couple days.
In the past I put mine always dry together and had always trouble with leaks, then @AH64ID recommended the grease theory and bang, perfect.

And second, with the EB you hear every minor leak at the manifold the first time whistle, I had to fight these too.

Thanks for the heads up @Ozymandias.

 

[Motorhead]

I used anti seize on the inside of the band and mine tightened and sealed very well, no leaks. As I tighten the band, I lightly tap the outside diameter of the clamp while tightening. I have 3.73 gears and the G56. Mine works almost too well as I have to shut it off on some long grades. I have a 27 ft 5th wheel and the PRXB works well towing. Are you sure the torque converter is locking when the PRXB is applied?

 

[tjm]

I used anti seize on the inside of the band and mine tightened and sealed very well, no leaks. As I tighten the band, I lightly tap the outside diameter of the clamp while tightening. I have 3.73 gears and the G56. Mine works almost too well as I have to shut it off on some long grades. I have a 27 ft 5th wheel and the PRXB works well towing. Are you sure the torque converter is locking when the PRXB is applied?

anti-seize is a great idea @Motorhead .

Instructions for use of the pacbrake are : push the tow/haul mode button. Green light indicated Torque converter lockup.

Ima gonna ask Pacbrake what happens if I dont push in the tow haul button.

 

[Ozymandias]

I don't recommend to use antiseize there, this connection needs to be rigid after final setting down, the grease burns off within a couple miles and leaves back a dry surface.

 

[Motorhead]

I have 100,000 miles on my brake unit and the joint has been solid with no leaks from the joint or band using anti-seize. I used a small amount spread film thin.

 

[White2005]

I have an exhaust leak between my exhaust manifold and turbo, will definitely give this a try-

I used anti seize on the inside of the band and mine tightened and sealed very well, no leaks. As I tighten the band, I lightly tap the outside diameter of the clamp while tightening. I have 3.73 gears and the G56. Mine works almost too well as I have to shut it off on some long grades. I have a 27 ft 5th wheel and the PRXB works well towing. Are you sure the torque converter is locking when the PRXB is applied?

 

[NIsaacs]

I have an exhaust leak between my exhaust manifold and turbo, will definitely give this a try-

Give what a try, some anti seize? You need to replace the gasket.

 

[Motorhead]

I was talking about the clamp between the turbo outlet and the exhaust pipe.
white2005, you do need to replace the gasket between the exhaust scroll but before you put it back together, check the flatness of exhaust manifold outlet and the face of the turbo.

 

[White2005]

@NIsaacs & @Motorhead

Yeah (at the risk of derailment of the thread)

I should have been more clear. I have the new gasket for between the exhaust manifold and turbo. The initial install of the exhaust brake went smoothly (onto OEM parts). When we upgraded the exhaust manifold and turbo we had trouble getting the EB to seal to the downpipe- was glad to see the suggestions for grease and antisieze to help with such…

 

[Motorhead]

Just a tip I learned. Make sure the exhaust brake casting aligns with the exhaust flange on the exhaust down pipe. I would suggest putting the clamping rings on both the turbo outlet to the brake assy and the brake assy to the down pipe. Tighten the clamps enough so the brake assy can be rotated either way to get your best alignment with both connections, then do your final tightening.

 

[CharlesinGA]

As stated above, assemble everything but leave it loose enough to move around, keep wiggling and tightening. V band clamp on the down pipe can be tapped lightly with a small hammer to help seat it.

I installed my PacBrake last fall. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-pacbrake-kit-on-my-03-5-9l-ho-nv5600.273276/l

I am actually shocked you are having the good luck with the compressor holding air. Engine off, my leaks down in about 15 minutes, engine running, it will hold air at least 30 minutes, as I let it idle and had a clamp amp meter on the compressor power lead and in 30 mins of idling it never ran. My guess is the check valve seats due to the vibration of the engine running. I took it apart and cleaned corrosion out of it (nearly new) and slicked it with some thin grease, but still the same.

Is your transmission torque converter locking up when the exhaust brake engages? What RPM are you seeing? Brake is most effective above 2000 rpm, which you get by downshifting.

Charles

 

[tjm]

As stated above, assemble everything but leave it loose enough to move around, keep wiggling and tightening. V band clamp on the down pipe can be tapped lightly with a small hammer to help seat it.

I installed my PacBrake last fall. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-pacbrake-kit-on-my-03-5-9l-ho-nv5600.273276/l

I am actually shocked you are having the good luck with the compressor holding air. Engine off, my leaks down in about 15 minutes, engine running, it will hold air at least 30 minutes, as I let it idle and had a clamp amp meter on the compressor power lead and in 30 mins of idling it never ran. My guess is the check valve seats due to the vibration of the engine running. I took it apart and cleaned corrosion out of it (nearly new) and slicked it with some thin grease, but still the same.

Is your transmission torque converter locking up when the exhaust brake engages? What RPM are you seeing? Brake is most effective above 2000 rpm, which you get by downshifting.

Charles

Hey Charles. Yeah my torque converter is locking up. Haven’t watched the tach to determine what the rpm’s are. I do follow the users manual and place the vehicle I’m tow haul. If I recall correctly they say you have to be above 40mph before the torque converter locks up. And they also mention that sometimes you have to tap the accelerator to get it to lock up if it doesn’t when you take your foot of the pedal.

 

[CharlesinGA]

I read thru the instructions for your installation. While they say 40 mph, you might try it at lower speed. Watch the lights in the switch for it to turn green, and let off the accelerator to see if the brake activates. I'm glad I don't have an automatic, though with the '06/early '07 the instructions are the same as mine, there is none of that lockup crap as its all integrated into the trucks computers.

I've read thru instructions for PacBrakes on Fords for instance and it gets complicated. The Cummins is a piece of cake as the computer handles the operation of it.

Just keep playing with it.

Charles

 

[tjm]

I read thru the instructions for your installation. While they say 40 mph, you might try it at lower speed. Watch the lights in the switch for it to turn green, and let off the accelerator to see if the brake activates. I'm glad I don't have an automatic, though with the '06/early '07 the instructions are the same as mine, there is none of that lockup crap as its all integrated into the trucks computers.

I've read thru instructions for PacBrakes on Fords for instance and it gets complicated. The Cummins is a piece of cake as the computer handles the operation of it.

Just keep playing with it.

Charles

hi Charles. My pac rake is working