OK, first off, thanks for the replys.
I pryed the cover off from the top with my pocket knife. Be careful, the plastic scratches very easily.
The block I purchased is the 7 position all ignition hot. I didn't want constant hot, I'm planning on running all my gauges and train horns off this block.
Sorry I didn't have more pics to post. I thought about taking pics of this when I was already half way thru.
Each relay has its own power lead that runs thru the firewall to its own circuit breaker then to the battery. I terminated the two leads into one with an eye connector. There is also a power lead off the new block the runs to the trucks block that you connect to any constant 12V source. The two grounds off the new block are terminated into one lead that has an eye connector on the end that you run one of the mounting screws thru to bond it to the frame.
I'm not going to run any of these leads outside, I'll run outside leads into the cab thru the firewall and make connections inside the cab.
The model I got is, PPP-70117-all ignition hot. It was $71. 95, a little spendy but well worth it. It comes with ALL connectors and hardware.
When you pry this cover off, there is no room for anything as is. There are metal dash supports that protrude towards you when looking in. All I did was bend these supports in towards the dash. I can't see how this would decrease any of the dash support integrity and why Dodge didn't mold it this way from the get go. On this support, I pryed it in starting with a screw driver. Once it started to bend in, I beat it the rest of the way with a hammer. Channel locks were my final tool of choice to form it to the shape I needed.
Here's a couple more pics. The first is where I ran thru the firewall, the second is where I mounted the two circuit breakers.
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
