Paint and Tire Options

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I've got my '97 Ram pretty much where I want it, power-wise. "Dr. Performance" has lived up to its claims and delivered horsepower (400+) and torque with low EGTs (never over 800 with probe after turbo).

I'd like to improve my truck's appearance by restoring the paint job; it's full of small scratches, stone chips and has started to fade. Our local (Atlanta) alternatives are pretty discouraging -- places like "Maaco," and "Earl Shive" abound -- but body shop prices for a full-fledged repaint (with original factory color) of my "Emerald Green" truck range from $1,800-$5,000. Big bucks, to say the least.

I know zilch about automotive painting, though I used Maaco to repaint my fleet of remodeling work trucks (white paint, $500 for a full-sized van) years ago. Their paint would hold up, reasonably well, for about three years, then begin to peel around the fender wells, etc. They weren't too careful about over spray into the engine compartment (through the grill) etc. I want something better for my pride and joy...

Has anybody had experience getting a really good re-paint of his truck. . ? Any recommendations about the best way to find somebody really skilled in this "art," for reasonable money -- any "pointers" on the subject would be greatly appreciated. What should I expect to spend for a top-notch paint job? How do I achieve that three-dimensional, awesome depth of color that can be seen on some show trucks? Does a re-paint (if staying with the "factory" color) potentially depreciate the value of the truck, or cause people to suspect that it's been wrecked?

Tires are my next concern. I have been running 285-75-R16 B. F. G. AT tires on Mickey Thomson "Classic" rims. The tires wear well, but I'm just about through my second set. I want to stay with the B. F. G. s, but I want to go with the new 315s. I've already raised my truck 2" all the way around by adding a leaf spring in the back and a spring-extension kit in the front; even so, the 285s rub a little on the mud flaps (up front) going around corners. I don't want to lift the truck anymore because I don't want to mess with the steering geometry (start replacing "pitman arms," etc). I'm finally happy with my truck's steering after replacing the intermediate steering shaft and much adjusting (by the dealership) of the steering box.

Anybody out there running the new B. F. G 315s? And, if so, how did you accomplish this feat. . ? I'm also thinking about replacing my 3. 54 gears with 4. 10s if I go to the bigger tires. I want to keep the truck as strong out of the hole as it is right now. My one experience, when experimenting with 35" tall "Wild Country" tires, was that the truck was "dogged out," and sluggish feeling after the change. I drove straight back to the dealership and had them taken off. Ended up just paying for installation/restocking labor.

I want the taller BFGs, but want to avoid the power loss and rubbing (while cornering) problems

Please let me hear your thoughts...

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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), "Twister Turbo," Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson "Classic" rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake.

[This message has been edited by Sasquatch (edited 10-05-2000). ]

 

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hey Sas, I don't know a lot about auto painting, but the little I do know says the $1800 price could be a good one. The bucks are not necessarily for the paint, (the maaco's and earl shribes do a real quick prep and paint over the problems).

A good job is first to remove all wax, oil and dirt from existing finish. then correct all blemishes, etc. you stated you have chips and scratches which need to be repaired before any paint. once these items have been taken care of including sanding everything smooth, remember this is manual labor, and an experianced eye not some automated process, then first coat of paint can be applied. depending on amount of fixing this probably would be a primer coat. again sanding and checking all surface areas for blemishes etc before proceding. this is followed by first coat, sanding between coats until finished, usually about 2 - 3 coats of "color" followed by at least one coat of clear coat.

you need to ask/specify how many coats and what eles is included in price including warrenty before deciding on a price. when you think about it the $500 job is the rip off?! if you are planning to keep her for a while it would be worth your while to invest in a good paint job not a cheap one.

sorry for the long post, nut JMHO, good luck

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1999 3500 quad cab, auto aero fendor trim and running boards,
bugflector II, K&N filter, Geno's monster tip

 

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A good paint job is all about the prep, the final spray is easy. Best final spray is several coats with a wet sand between coats and a clear gloss as a final. If you don't have anything but minor scratches the job should be much cheaper. Auto paint is VERY time consuming when done right, hence the big money from the good guys. If it were me, I'd get a couple of good books and some supplys from a shop that sells only automotive paint and do the prep myself. Then go to Maaco for the spray work. Fixing dents is an art form and best left to the pros...

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

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I have had 2 rigs painted and the 1st was a 68 Mustang that I spent weeks on pulling chrome, lights, mouldings, elbems and door handles off of just so I could strip 2 layers of paint off and still paid a back yard painter $2,000 to finish (Factory paint was over $500 gallon). Best paint job I've every seen besides at car shows.
The other was the wifes Escort (after the wreck) that was sent to Earl Slob and their $650 special that we paid have price for was exactly that - half off the car and onto the body mouldings, marker lenses, window trim and other non-painted areas. You get what you pay for and the only think these guys do is acid wash, try to mask off and start spraying.

IMO - If you have the time and can find a good shop? it would be worth it to pull your own bumpers, trim and lights so you save on the labor and your the only one to blame if it is dropped, dented, scratched or cracked.

I would pay a good job $2,000 to repaint. Even that little driftwood strip at the bottom of mine from the factory was $166.

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4-sale or Trade
'99, 3/4, QC, SLT, 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 3. 5xlsd, tow pac, HD tcase, tow mirrors, camper pac, White over driftwood, Mist gray interior. With less than 19,000 miles.

 

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Sas... . With paint jobs you get what you pay for, I agree with the others, a quality job cost some serious dough. One way to save money is to take off all trim,bumbers, headlights,door handles etc. yourself. I do paint and body work as a hobby... let me be the 1st to tell ya, it isnt easy. Shop around and look at the shops work. Also most shops are into ... "get it in and get it out" as fast as they can..... good lucky JB

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99 Black/Agate, Quad,Long bed,4x4, SLT,Auto,HX-40 16cm2 & ATS Exhaust manifold treated to Jet-Hot 2000(Gray),DD stage 3 injectors,4 wire Blue Box,"True" 5 inch Jet-Hot Coated exhaust from turbo to Tailpipe(Over the Axle),Borla Shoot-out Muffler,Suncoast converter, BD valve body and pressure-loc,Mag-Hytec trans pan,Amsoil ATF-4,Mobil Super Delvac 1300,fuel line up-grade from lift pump to filter and from filter to injection pump,Auto meter Ultra lite gauges:Boost,EGT,Fuel Pressure,Trans Temp, Valentine 1, EZ-pass

 

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Hey Sas:

Regarding your paintjob... just like everyone else has said... "you get what you pay for. " I just had my '99 about 60% repainted due to hail damage... cost my insurance company over $1600... and my '98 is about to be repainted for the same reasons... looking at about $1500 for the whole truck. For $1500 (white), I will get all prep, scratches/dings/dents fixed, three coats of paint, three coats of clear coat (factory only puts ONE on), and finishing. You don't have your location posted, but what I would do is wait... wait until a hail storm comes and let the insurance company pay for it... then make sure you find the most reputable paint/body shop that will refinish your truck the way you want it done... believe me they are out there... just find a truck or custom vehicle with a great paint job and ask them where they got their work done... that's how I got my referral... GOOD LUCK!!!

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Rob's 98 Ram2500 SLT RegCab 4X4 12-valve Cummins, Automatic, 4. 10 Axle w/ Lim-Slip, Trailer Tow Pack, 255/85R16 Dunlop Radial Mud Rovers... Silencer Ring disappeared; TC lockup switch, CAT removal, and decent paint next... . 53,000 miles; Wife's 99 Ram1500 SLT QC 4X4 w/360 eng, Automatic, Trailer Tow Pack; STOCKER! 41,000 miles - both daily drivers. If your STROKIN, your CHOKIN... on CUMMINS smoke!!!

 

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Sas, if you go cheap on the paint, you will devalue your truck severely. And, a $5000 paint job over $200 body work looks like crap. It is in the prep that makes the difference. The material is super expensive to boot, and the California tree-huggers have made paint booths expensive to own and opperate, so the cost is passed on to us. Spend the bucks, dont go cheap!

 

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since no one will help you out on the tire issue ,I will. I just put on 305 70 16 on factory rims and they look GREAT. They also dont rub so I dont know why your 285's rubbed because I know a guy who has 285 on factory rims and his don't rub. I think it must be your aftermarket rims you said you had. Just wanted to let you know mine are Goodyears not BFG. Goodyear , i think, just came out with this size. Didnt really effect my speedometer either. Never understood why Dodge put car tires on big trucks- they look like crap from the factory

 

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Amen RedNut!!! Why do they use those little rubber donuts on our big beautiful rigs???