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Paint/lights

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I was wondering what the drill is to repainting these trucks with the OEM paint that hasn't bonded to the primer-every time I wash my truck I am one step closer to the hood and cab being totally primer, but I don't want to wait that long. Will a shop charge extra to re paint a truck with this dilemma? I've noticed it is quite common on all the big three truck makes from the late 80's and early 90's. Also, my 91 0ne ton (Single rear wheels) has no cab marker lights. Is this common?
 
My truck is peeling off of the cab... for now... , I went to a local dealer and they told me that they would "warranty" it. As soon as I get the hail damage fixed they are going to repaint the cab.
I also heard that they have been repainting several trucks on the cab, hood and fenders, (everywhere that there is a flat spot) because they sat under the heaters on assembly line too long and got the paint too hot.

But that is just what I heard.

One more thing, when the head paint guy was looking at my problem he also looked at the hood verrry closely. #ad
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'95 2500HD, SLT, White, 4x4, 5-speed, 3. 54 LSD, 4"JRE, 270/675 JRE plate, leveling lift waiting at work for a new track bar... more BOMBING to come!
 
All of the North American manufacturers get their paints from only a couple sources, so they are all basically the same in quality of material. In the early 90's (and even for a period in the mid-late 80's) there was a batch problem with primers. The factories were using a new wiz-bang miracle of modern chemistry called "self-etching" primer. This was important to them because it reduced a labor step in the building process... after priming, the vehicle didn't need sanding, just shoot the color over the dry primer! This is now common practice and it works very well, but back then they were still having problems. Well, as I understand it, several railroad cars full of primer were filled with bad material and distributed to the different plants. Ford, GM and Chrysler had to eat LOTS of warranty re-paints over the years! I would have thought by 94-95 the problem was resolved.
 
I recently purchased a ‘95 2500 that had been very well-maintained. All the rubber trim and paint looks like it had been garaged and well waxed, EXCEPT for the hood and roof of cab. On these two surfaces there is the strangest sort of fading: It looks like the clearcoat is gone in places and most of the color is faded, but when it is waxed, no color comes off on the cloth.

Are these the flat spots that MtnGoat was referring to from overexposure to heat? Is it really possible that DC would repaint after 5 years?!

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'95 2500 LB 2WD, 65,000--Westech gauges, Prime-loc, Brite box, Line X--more to come!

[This message has been edited by Kodiak (edited 09-03-2000). ]
 
I don't know why, but on some of the trucks the color coat (basecoat) peels away from the "self-etching" primer, while on others the clearcoat peels away from the basecoat- usually on the hood and roof (more UV exposure from the sun?). Also, if I remember correctly, clearance lights were standard on DRW 1-tons due to the extra width but optional on 3/4 ton and SRW 1-ton trucks.

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring, cat,& muffler all stolen.
 
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