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Paper Towel Oil filter

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Debs, I like your style!!! POINT OF CLARIFICATION: My fathers 12 valve that I referenced earlier runs very soot free as compared to my 24 valve. I just went to Amsoil about 5,000 miles ago. The Amsoil is like a laxitive for dirt, grime and sludge in an engine. Therefore, I have been trying to change the T/P every 1 to 2 thousand miles. I have not seen any channeling in the media. When my oil starts to soot up, I just change the T/P, add a quart of oil and keep going. I am sure that all by pass filters have some effectiveness. All the "Johnny come latelies" that are here now is a mind boggling thing. The one thing I do know is that Frantz Filters were "cool" before these other guys could spell F-I-L-T-E-R. Say you don't like 'em but don't say they don't work... ... ... ... mi dos pesos.
 
If you buy direct from oilguard you'll pay $140 plus shipping. I bought mine from Longrider (Royal Purple) for a bit less than that. Lonni at Longrider (get the tel# from www.longrider.com) is who I spoke with. If you buy from oilguard they send all the fittings AND 8' of oil hose. If you buy from longrider you'll get everything but the hose. I went to the local "EVCO House of Hose" and picked up some "Push-lock" hose for $1/ft. All total my install was about $137.
 
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Hello JPark and other Gentleman. This is Deborah and if you want to put your filter(Oilguard) where your mouth is, sort of like your money where your mouth is; why don't we do a little challenge between yours and Garry's, Barry's & Mark's filters, if of course you are up to the challenge!?:D Then we can see what the #'s of an Oil Analysis prove. Of course, I want to see it done compleatly fair and honest and then we could see where Barry's "Buffalo Chips Land". :cool: The #'s have already been showed on another thread with another bet between some other members and other filters, but hey I think my Product is up for the challenge. ;) How about yours?:confused:
 
Just got off the phone with Debbie. Yep, she is George's daughter alright! No doubt about it... ... ... ... ... .
 
my oil is at the point that it was needing a filter change with the amsoil bmk-15 (8500mi). I have installed the Frantz but haven't cranked the motor yet. I let the BMK-15 go a little long but it has been all highway miles. Most of my trips are 30-150mi with very little idling and in-town driving.



I'll get a sample now and at 1,3,5Kmi from now to see the difference.



We'll see how it goes.
 
Comparing oil analysis from different installations across a sample of TDR members who's driving habits likely differ, whose engine service lives likely differ, i. e. how they were broken in and how they are used, etc is HARDLY SCIENTIFIC or conclusive.



Why don't these companies put THEIR money where their mouths are and have an independent third party evaluate their claims and do a more scientific test to keep things comparable and objective?



MaX
 
I agree with Max on this point. I am sick of trying to evaluate products on unsubstantiated propaganda and testimonials. I use Amsoil and it works for me but they fall into this catagory as well. Until it is all tested with stringent standards by a third party it will all continue to be just claims. I can hear all the claims and the excuses for not doing such testing for ever but they will still be excuses:-{} . It would greatly improve the profit potential of all these companies to get conclusive data about there product but the big picture either illudes them or their produces just don't perform to the claims. I have a feeling we will not know any time soon.
 
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I have the Frantz I purchased from Barry. I can honestly say that I believe the oil is visually cleaner at a higher mileage,than before the filter. I'm running fuel that has sulpher in it, so it aint as clean as some get it.

Can someone make some reccomendations on the TP to use in it?

I've tries several with mixed results. Most rolls seem too tall. I look kind of funny walking through the local wally world with a tape rule in my hand in the TP area. :D

Also, how often should I be changing the filter? I've been doing it about every 1500 miles. I dont plan on running the same oil in my truck forever, I would like to run it 5-6K miles, if the sample comes back OK.

Eric
 
Eric, does that mean that the 'Rio Grande' roll is out of the picture :mad: . Seems to work the best around my house :rolleyes: :D .



Scott W.
 
Originally posted by Mad Max

gulf's monster takes up more space than I'm will to give up under the hood, not to mention what it takes away from my B1 fund.




Heheh... I know what you mean about the B1 fund (not that I could make adequate use of one with my 1st gen).



Anyway, admittedly there's no way you'd be able to fit a GCF under the hood--I doubt you could on a 1st gen even with the extra space it has vs. a 2nd gen. Most installation pics I've seen have it mounted on the underside of the chassis, to the frame or a crossmember.



Also, someone mentioned earlier that a GCF O-1 is $550, and that's not correct (well, maybe if you buy it from www.bypassfilter.com). You can buy them from the manufacturer (www.gulfcoastfilter.com) for $395. Still pricey, I know.



Mike
 
Originally posted by Frantz Filters

Hello JPark and other Gentleman. This is Deborah and if you want to put your filter(Oilguard) where your mouth is, sort of like your money where your mouth is;

[snip]



Deborah:



I already put my money where my mouth is, that's why an Oilguard bypass filter is in my truck.



My truck has 7600 miles on it now. I intend to run another 7400 on dino oil and then switch to synthetic Royal Purple 15W-40. From that point on I will change the full flow filter twice yearly and the bypass filter (and oil) yearly. I probably will only do an oil analysis once a year (at the halfway point on the oil).



Surely someone who sells bypass filters can't be unaware of the fact that different oils, different trucks, different service schedules, different sizes/capacities of bypass filters, different full-flow filters, different oil analysis labs, different oil sampling methods, etc. etc. etc. will all have a direct bearing on the test results. Such a "challenge" appeals to the emotions, but has little real value.



I'm sorry you feel like I bad-mouthed your pet filter. In my posts I never mentioned anyone's filter by name except for Oilguard. I only mentioned that the TP filters had a certain susceptibility to channeling and that this was a factor in my decision to go with the Oilguard. You have explained that channeling happens because of using the wrong TP. Fine, I accept that--it's information I didn't know. Even if I had known, I'd have still chosen the Oilguard.



jrp
 
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Originally posted by Barry

I just went to Amsoil about 5,000 miles ago. The Amsoil is like a laxitive for dirt, grime and sludge in an engine. Therefore, I have been trying to change the T/P every 1 to 2 thousand miles. I have not seen any channeling in the media. When my oil starts to soot up, I just change the T/P, add a quart of oil and keep going.



I also took this into consideration before choosing the Oilguard. Consider that the Oilguard filter can be used for up to 25K miles (depending on your oilpan capacity and the size of the Oilguard filter installed). By the time you put TWELVE ROLLS of TP and TWELVE QUARTS of Amsoil makeup oil, are you really saving anything? The oilguard filter elements only cost about $13 ea. Heck, three quarts of AMSOIL cost more than that. Using the service schedule I described previously I doubt I'll need ANY makeup oil unless I decide to go ahead with the oil analysis at the "midway point" in the oil's life. (I usually drive about 15K a year so 7500 miles would correspond to the "midway point" and would be where I would change my full-flow filter).



I may even install a sampling valve in the bypass line to facilitate easy and accurate sample-taking. If I do that then I probably won't remove enough oil from the system to worry about needing to add any makeup oil.



Also, is there any chance that your TP doesn't channel because you change it so often? Might it exhibit a tendency to channel if it was left in for the 15K miles that I intend to run before changing the filter element? I don't know the answer to this question. If you have run one this long without channeling I'd be interested to hear about it.



I agree that the Oilguard isn't the end-all be-all of bypass filters. I'm just describing the factors that led me to choose this filter over others.
 
THX JP, I came across that later. I know there are some SAE test out there that would probably appropriate to do some form of bypass filter shootout for first and second pass efficiency; it would also be interesting to see if there's anything out there that checks to see if the bypass media itself is adding anything to the test fluid during the course of service?



From that point, cost, ease of instalation, ease of service, SIZE, service/maintenance requirements (some of the centrifuge types need seals and bearings maintained?) etc would come into play.



I have an Eaton/Fuller PTO filter on my NV5600/DEE, its filter element is similar to that of Oilguards and I've been quite pleased with it. (available from Geno's garage for the unaware)



MaX
 
Filament-wound filter elements have been commonly used in large industrial engines for decades. Full flow filter elements typically come in 16 micron (engine) and 10 micron (turbocharger) ratings. For bypass filtration, the centrifuge approach seems to be the system of choice these days. I can honestly say that I've never come across a toilet paper filtration system installed on any multi-million dollar engine or gas turbine in my 30 years with a large industrial engine, compressor and gas turbine manufacturer.



JM2CW. :rolleyes:



Rusty
 
Originally posted by Midnite







Also, someone mentioned earlier that a GCF O-1 is $550, and that's not correct (well, maybe if you buy it from www.bypassfilter.com). You can buy them from the manufacturer (www.gulfcoastfilter.com) for $395. Still pricey, I know.



Mike



That someone was me and I didn't give the wrong price, it's $550. 00 for the 02, which is what I would need, based on their HP ratings on their web page.



Scott W.
 
Originally posted by Bigsaint

That someone was me and I didn't give the wrong price, it's $550. 00 for the 02, which is what I would need, based on their HP ratings on their web page.



Ahh--okay, I see. The O2 is double the size of the O1, so it uses a pair of paper towl rolls, and holds 12 quarts of oil. This would really be overkill for our engines, although if you REALLY didn't want to change your oil, and only wanted to change the bypass filter and add makeup oil, then the O2 would probably be the one to get. The O2 is really designed for bigger engines, ISC, N14, etc.



Even with the O1 though, you're supposed to be able to go 10k miles between element changes without doing a full oil change.



I suppose I should have clarified before now that I have nothing at all to do with GCF, I've just read a ton about their stuff in both light truck and marine applications. For some reason the GCF is particularly popular with the Ford-Diesel crowd (www.ford-diesel.com), and there's a huge amount of information in their forum archives.



Mike
 
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