Parasitic Draw Test

[CVR222NV]

Truck died and determined my Odyssey batteries had been drawn down to 6 volts! Couldn't get my charger to charge them so pulled them and took them in to Battery Systems and they charged and tested them and said all was good with the batteries.

Performed a parasitic draw test today and these were the results:

Driver's side battery (passenger side completely unhooked):

Total draw - 3.1 to 3.3 amps
Remove fuse 36 - down to 2.3 to 2.5 amps
Remove fuse 11 - down to .258 amps

Passenger side battery (driver side battery completely unhooked):

Total draw - .252 -.253 amps

Got on the Ram Body Builder site to look up the fuses and this is what I found:

Fuse 11 - page 8W-13-9 - Lamp Underhood (SRT)

Fuse 36 - page 8W-13-16 - Amplifier Radio (Premium)

With regard to the underhood light I had removed the light from the socket before I did the test. I had previously replaced the bulb with an LED version and also replaced the hood with an SRT-10 hood and the body shop reinstalled the light in its original location. Otherwise no modifications.

As to the radio, no modifications.

Any suggestions where to look for the problems?

Does an amp draw of between .252 and .258 sound like the resting amp draw on these trucks?

I have not done any additional research but thought I would check with the Forum before proceeding. Thanks!

 

[PWong]

A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from 5 to 35 milliamperes with ignition OFF, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order.
250 mA was too much.

 

[cerberusiam]

Just removing the load does not guarantee the load is gone. The TIPM's in these vehicles will draw power on the relays even if the load they control is disconnected. Finding out where the draw is actually located can be a hair tearing experience.

 

[CVR222NV]

Thanks for the responses. I removed all of the accessories attached to the positive driver's side battery terminal and the 250ma draw continued until I removed the positive cable going to the TIPM and it then went to zero. I'm thinking of going back through the fuses one more time to see if it is drawing from one of the remaining fused circuits because the meter was fluctuating and easily could have hidden a 250ma change. If that does not result in finding this draw what is the next step? I note that the bottom of the TIPM has 10 connection points marked C1 through C10. Can I pull them one at a time to see which connector has the draw? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[PWong]

Take the multimeter reading at least 3 minutes after turning everything off and closed all doors.
Start from the high amperage reading on the meter, then switch to progressively lower amperage scales.

 

[PWong]

I note that the bottom of the TIPM has 10 connection points marked C1 through C10. Can I pull them one at a time to see which connector has the draw? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Guess you can.
Better off doing it dead then then doing it live!

 

[BILLUA]

Just removing the load does not guarantee the load is gone. The TIPM's in these vehicles will draw power on the relays even if the load they control is disconnected. Finding out where the draw is actually located can be a hair tearing experience.

It sure can be! I finally fixed the parasitic draw that I had been chasing on my 2005 by trading it in!

 

[PWong]

It sure can be! I finally fixed the parasitic draw that I had been chasing on my 2005 by trading it in!

No you didn't fix it.
You just passed it to somebody else. LOL

 

[BILLUA]

Fixed it for me

 

[cerberusiam]

Fixed it for me

That is fixed in my book.

I note that the bottom of the TIPM has 10 connection points marked C1 through C10. Can I pull them one at a time to see which connector has the draw?

If you can, yes. Still won't tell you if the TIPM or the circuit is the problem but you will know where to dig deeper.

 

[sag2]

On your 2006 the draw should start out at around 3-6 amps, then slowly ramp down as modules drop off the BUS. The normal is around 25-50mA when everything is asleep. Take a photo of your fuse locations and pull ALL the fuses watching the draw after pulling each fuse. The BUS may wake back up a few times but should go back to sleep and mA draw should go down with time. On 2006 a common source of a draw is the cluster, but it isn't really a cluster problem. The interior lighting goes through the cluster so if you have a lamp circuit staying on it keeps the cluster awake.