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Part 2 - Towing Capacity, How best to beef up this suspension

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Torqloc

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I thought it very appropriate to respond and let you know the results of the advice I received to my previous towing problem, what I did and how it worked.

I am towing a gooseneck trailer with an #18000 bed capacity carrying medium square hay bales (3'x3'x8' weighing #1000 each) to an auction, and delivery to the farmer that purchases them.

As you remember my first experience I carried 11 bales (11,000) on the deck and suffered greatly. I wrote about suspension and received great advice. Here's what I did.

First I found a company to do springs and airbags. They installed two additional leafs on each side, and pulled off the overload springs for the camper special option. Since the Firestone compressor and airbags was on back order, I had to make my next trip on the new springs alone. Empty the truck sits 2 1/2" higher in the rear end. The ride is the same empty. Loaded it no longer bottoms out and rides fine, but its still close to its limit, so I will add the airbags next.

Second, I decided to pop in the TST kit, without waiting until my 100K warranty period was over. The results is the power is there but I notice when starting out it takes forever to get upto speed.

Well here is the story of my second towing adventure... see Towing Capacity, How best to beef up this suspension for my first adventure.

After adding the spring leafs and the TST kit, I popped in the Painless Wiring kit in anticipation of adding the Firestone airbags, which I found out later were backordered. I also added three gauges which I only got one finished hooking up when I took my second load (the boost gauage). I figured I could now carry more hay to the auction, so I watched as my son loaded 18 bales on the bed of the gooseneck trailer. We loaded evenly this time and also loaded 6 bales over the beaver tail of the trailer. The springs seemed to hold up, so off I went.

As I went onto the on ramp on the freeway, it seemed like I had plenty of power but it took forever to get up to 65-70 mph. I believe I need to find an article on the Torque Converter Lockout kit (I understand this may help). The springs did a great job! No bucking going down the freeway!

I made it over the scale 90 miles away just in time for teh auction weighing 30,880#. Remember my truck alone weighs ~6,800#, trailer ~ 6,400#, so I had more hay this time to sell. After the load sold I had to haul it 62 miles to the farmer, that's where the adventure began!

As I was following the farmer, my pickup was slow, but I noticed traveling through rush hour, my brakes were fading. I came over a hill doing about 50 mph. Going down hill the stop light at the bottom of the hill changed. I began to brake... slowing but not quick enough. I boosted up the electric brake and tried again... not enough. I began pumping the brakes... oh boy pump baby pump. I picked out my "out" if I needed it. But I finally stopped about 10' short of the car infront of me. Oh yea! My front brakes were smoking like BIG TIME! There goes a new set of pads I thought.

After I was at the farm and the farmer was unloading, I got out the book on my electric brake control. I checked the adjustments and found when I took off the control to put in the painless wiring system, I must have accidently turned the "agressiveness" control to low. So I adjusted it and can stop on a dime.

Well thanks to all the members that responded to my previous post. I added TST, springs and leveled the load better. A much improved ride. I'll still go for the airbags, get all the gauges working and investigate the Torque Converter Lockout switch to see if that will help with my pickup. I will also investigage a jake-brake of somesort. Although we don't have a lot of hills in Minnesota, I can see where it would really help on saving brakes, but I don't know how well it works with automatic transmissions.

This moring over breakfast my son (15 yrs old) mentioned that once you start Bombing its hard to stop. My wife and I both asked what that is. He said that's what TDR calls people obsessed with upgrading their Cummings Dodge. I thought about it for a moment and knew he was right.

Also on last footnote. Braking is really important and I don't recommend towing more that you can safely control and stop with. But I did research vehicles which were larger and by the time I got to a FORD which was rated large enough for towing my load I was into a 750... oddly enough with a Cummins (same engine).
 
glad to hear that all went well and you are on your way to spending lots of money. I do not pull nearly as much as you (19,900) but I will say that you should look into the Diesel Transmission Technologies Tourque Converter and Valve body for your application. Bill can set you up for specifically towing and you will not have all the sluggeshness you are experiencing from the TC. You might be having a problem with the TC slipping now that you have added more power with that much weight and a new TC can help alot with it, it made me go from having to run at a hill with my trailer to being able to start on a hill and get to speed. I DO NOT RECOMEND putting a TC lockup switch in for the use of acceleration, with that much weight you will only destroy that TC lockup clutch and lining; however it is necessary to use it for e-brake application. Also I have the PAcBrake on my auto and love it, you will find that you use more than you think, especially if you upgrade the trans you will not have any problems. If you have any questions, give a E-mail

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TAZ... 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto ETC Cummins, LSD 3. 54,Quad Cab, Long Bed, Agate Leather, White/Driftwood Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group, Cab clearance lights,SPA-Technique Digital Dual Gauges (Pyro/Boost, Trans pressure/temp) Aux. Backup lamps. BNM 5th Wheel Hitch, Additional Body Molding on Bed. BD Torc Loc, BD Pressure Loc, Line-X bed-liner. DTT's TC & VB, Pac Brake, Power Edge, Edge EZ, Grover Air Horns

2000 32' Aljo Triple Slide 5th Wheel.
http://www.ramtaz.com

Add on's to come: any other Ram Runner required modifications...

[This message has been edited by MCrossley (edited 10-24-2000). ]
 
I've read both parts of this thread & I'm totally amazed at you people.

Did you ever stop to think that the engine isn't the limiting factor in towing capacity? Maybe Ford/DC/GM/Freightliner knows something we don't.

The modifications you have made - TST, springs - have not necessarily increased your GCWR above 18K. What about the axles, frame & brakes (by your own admission)?

Your DOT apportioned tag does not mean you can safely tow/haul that amount of weight - it only means that's the amount of load you can put to the road thru that number of axles. The F750 that is rated to tow your load is probably only a two axle truck but it is rated much higher than your 2500. Kinda makes me wonder why the F750 has a higher GCWR - it has the same engine.

Please call me if you are ever hauling hay in Northern California - I'll stay off the roads that day.

Brian
 
I don't know what year truck you have but It helps to lock-out the over drive on the auto/trans till you reach at least 55mph because 2nd gens shift into OD to early as far as I'm concerned and that's where you get a lot of slip.
 
Brian, I am with you on the gcvwr, I have seen stress cracks on truck frames, light and heavy duty, they are not pretty.

Imagine if all the ovr trucks overloaded like some of these light duty trucks

the gcvwr is posted for a reason

B... ... ... ... ...
 
Folks: I've been thinking this over the past few days. I have the same concerns as you do regarding gcvwr. As I am new to this whole area of upgrading a truck, I came here looking for advice. Well I've found as you upgrade the engine, and suspension, the next item is the transmission.

I've talked to TST & BD-Power about those upgrades. When I talked to my local transmission guy about installing any of those upgrades, he had a 'come to jesus discussion with me about why I am not going with at least a 2 ton truck. I am thinking about it or hauling smaller loads for marketing purposes and hiring a semi when bulk loads have to be shipped.

I guess I am still torn about seeing several (maybe 8 or 9) pickups at the auction hauling much more than I am and wondering about the frame, rear axle, stopping ability... etc. My transmission guy who repairs only dodge transmissions, kind of woke me up yesterday. He said those upgrades will all help, but the next thing to go will be your Dana 70 rear axle. Why not consider a used 2 ton truck. He mentioned that my front suspension are made up of coil springs, with the weights I am hauling, front leaf springs will be needed. I mentioned by the time I got up to say a Ford 750 I was looking at the same engine. He mentioned that, I was also looking at a much heavier transmission, transfer case, rear axle... etc. He said basically, I am trying to turn a light truck with a beefed up automobile transmission into a semi rig. Although he said he'd do it, he reminded me of the 94-95-96 transmissions he seen blown because idiots are trying to haul just way too much.

So guys I am thinking over my next moves carefully.

Gordy
 
Brian:
With regards to springs, the tag on my front,left spring is missing. On my print-out the right spring has a zxgp and the left is zjhp. How do you tell the no. from the code?
Preston

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96 3500 Black 5 speed turbo diesel, SLT, with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , with other goodys on the way.
 
I have made two posts about the possibility of over gcvwr, i never meant it in a bad way, But it is kinda cool you are thinking about a real truck that is ample (gcvwr)

Any way good to hear you thinking about your alternative possibilities

B... ... ... ... ... ... .....
 
I never see a discussion on the TIRE RATING when we get into these topics. With the weight on the rear, are the tires overloaded? My 265's are rated at 3085# @ 80psi so that means the rear TIRES can carry 6170 gross. BUTT, the rearend, axles, springs and etc may not be rated even that high or they could be more - who knows. Just wanted to bring up the tires in this discussion.

\\BF//
 
My 2500 has a Dana 80 rear end. Did Dodge also put Dana 70s on them as well?

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2000 4X4 SLT QC 8' bed; 6 spd, 3. 54 ; BD exhaust brake and 4" exhaust syst; TST PM2; Airlift Super Duty rear air bags; RS 9000 shocks; pyro/boost gauges in 2 gauge a-pillar mount; back preasure gauge mounted under dash; KN air filter; Brown's Welding brush/grill guard, rear bumper & headache rack; nerf bars and aluminum roll top rear cover
 
Originally posted by Wiredawg:
My 2500 has a Dana 80 rear end. Did Dodge also put Dana 70s on them as well?


<font color=blue>You have a "hybrid" Dana 80 because you have the 6spd transmission. All the auto's and 5 spd's come with Dana 70 on the 2500 trucks. Only the 3500's have the "True" Dana 80's.
 
As I mentioned I looked over the RIckson 19" rims and tires. They will
handle a heavier commerical load. But here is some new information.

Presently I run Hancook tires. Kind of an agressive on-road/off-road tire,
rated at 3048 or so. I think I looked it up and emailed you what they were.

Well yesterday, I took another load of hay for sale to a guy. I decided I
wanted to go over the scale empty and loaded again to get the actual weight
distribution. So... here are the results.

Steer Axle Drive Axle Trailer Axle Gross Weight

Empty 4340 3580 5640 13560
Loaded 4400 5040 20160 29600

I figure that if my drive axle is handling only 5040 I should be ok since
both tires combined handle over 6000. I realize there is stress when you
hit bumps, but I think I am ok... at least so far.
 
I posted a question a couple of days ago about towing capacity and got a few answers, but the comments here answer most of them. It looks like if I am towing a 13000# load with my 98. 5 QC 4x4 short bed 5 sp. 3:54 Cummings, I will be technically approx. 2000 to 4000 pounds overweight, depending on whose specs. are correct for this model.

What determines the legal limit? One answer I have seen says the limit posted on the door jam + the max cap. of trailer as stated on the registration. If this is true, it seems that with the proper trailer, I would not be legally over weight. Does this vary state to state or is it governed by U. S. regulations?

I also understand that if your combined weight exceeds 25k, you have to have a commercial truck drivers license. I presume this is a U. S. regulation.

Any of you know more about this. I can't go buy another truck but I have to buy some heavy equipment which will only be moved around locally within the city.

Any comments are welcome.
 
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