Part numbers for brakes?

[rlyons]

Does anyone have the part numbers and the list of parts needed to change my rear brakes over to the bigger brakes like the D350? I need to change seals and drums so I am going to upgrade the brakes at the same time. Thanks in advance.

Roy

 

[Greenleaf]

Ok then,,,, here ya go... ... .....



NAPA by the way



Shoe. 3 incher SS-358

Drum didy drum 440-1417

Wheel Cyl. (this is the standard 1 incher) 4609025 and 4609026

Spring kit 2243

Cable fer the adjuster arm bidy arm 80808

Wheel hub seal 28746

Studs (like me) (just in case you need 'em)... ..... 641-3207



GL

 

[rlyons]

Thanks man, just what I needed.

 

[EZGZ]

For future reference



What is the advantage to going this route?



More stopping power?

Longer life?



"D" all the above.



Does it effect your brake bias?



A inquiring mind (pin head) wants to know?



I got brake light showing on my dash and I haven't pulled the axles yet. Murphy is a pal of mine.

 

[TKingsbury]

Absolutely it will affect brake bias. Larger shoes and wheel cyls will do more work. From what I gather, all of our trucks are different in the braking dept. If your truck already has a lot of rear brake, you may have to switch to an adjustable proportioning valve. Although some on here say they haven't done a thing after the swap and they work just fine. If you decide to go this route, don't be surprised if you have more rear brake than you need or want.

Travis. .

 

[rlyons]

All the above really. The brakes are the weak spot on our trucks. My drums are worn out and I wanted to replace the shoes and cylinders anyway so I might as well change over to the larger brakes while I am at it.

 

[Greenleaf]

FWIW...



The drums are the same drums. They will be no different. Cause, they already are 3" wide. The shoes are for the 350 series trucks... . 3 inch wide. You can keep the original drums but have them cleaned up so you are using all the surface of the used drum. I like new stuff, so I bought new drums.



The wheel cylinders I used are the OEM. Some folks have swapped them out for the 350 series truck cylinders. They be 1. 5 inch. However, the argument remains: if that is nesessary to do. I'm not sure if the 250 and 350 trucks use the same master cylinder or not. That could effect performance (if you go changing cylinder size if the master cylinder isn't designed to work with it).

 

[EZGZ]

Ok, I get it.



If you stick with the stock wheel cylinder your bias won't be effected and if you go with the bigger 1. 5 it may be noticeable.



Based on past experience I am thinking the shoes won't center just right if you stick with the stock cylinder or they will be jammed against the backing plate. Still haven't looked at mine. I am waiting for a warm weekend.



All of my problems have been related to the front brakes grabbing and shaking everything up in my overhead camper. I thought the previous owner had overheated them so I had them turned and new pads. That cured it for about 1k miles and one vacation trip and I was shuddering to a stop again. I just lived with it for all these years. I am not one to ride the brakes ether. My Dad always screamed at me to keep my foot off the peddle unless I meant to use them and then use them like you mean it.



What about doing a similar swap with the fronts? Is the 350 set up bigger up front too?

Thanks

Greg

 

[rlyons]

Here is an interesting artical on brake rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml



You may be overheating your front rotors due to the poor brakes on the rear of these trucks. I think I too will use the stock rear cylinders and go with the larger shoes and new drums. My rear brakes have always been poor but I pull a 5th wheel trailer which has it's own brakes.

 

[Greenleaf]

The wheel cylinder will not effect the centering positioin of the larger shoes. . The (larger) shoes just seem to fit like they are made to be there.



The(all new) front brakes (on my truck) took a beating as well and warped somewhat untill I rebuilt-ed the rear brakes



Now we have stoppage.



GL

 

[JLEONARD]

brakes are the weak spot on our trucks

I think the real problem with our brakes is that the rears don't self adjust well and hence get out of adjustment quickly.

At least that's what I have found.

Jay

 

[mysteryman]

poor rear brakes?????????

I read your comment about the rear brakes being poor on your truck... ... I am sure yours are most likely are... But have you ever really wondered just why that is ?

It really is not the brake system that the truck has..... The 357/358 bendix drum system has been around for a long while and used at one time or another by all the car companies. . The real reason most of you have poor breaking is because your using poor and or incorrect friction material on your shoes.....

Another reason is because the ABS system that is used on the rear brake systems on the first gen trucks is worthless... . At Chrysler we used to call the system the ASB system which stands for Anti Stop Brakes... . LOL



Some years back all the friction material manufactures stoped using ASBESTOS in their friction material..... Most of the friction material being used now on the 357/358 shoes does not have the correct properties to make the brake system function as it was intended to do... The friction coefficient is low while the heat that it generates is high ! With out going into great details on friction materials I will just say that you are making 3 times the heat and only getting 1/2 the stoping power that you would normally get if you were using the correct friction material that was intended to be used with this system. .

The only friction material I have found that is currently being produced that comes close to working properly is manufactured by a company out west called Performance Friction... . I buy this lining from them and put it on my shoes... . While it is a good material. It still is only about 85% compared to the original Bendix asbestos lining ... It also wears out twice as fast.....

There is an article in the current TDR magazine I got last week that explains friction material/brake system properties..... Refer to it for greater details...



As for the the ABS system... There is a large ABS valve bolted to the inside frame rail just about over top of the rear axle... . There is a brake line running in and another running out..... Cut these two lines and connect them together... Remove the valve and toss it in the trash... . Then find the big black box that sits behind the glove box and unplug it..... Your brakes will stop much better... . Most of those valves are malfunctioning by now anyway and they never worked properly when they were new... . They were also designed to operate with the correct friction material... ... That material is no longer available.....

If your hauling heavy trailers you will really notice a difference in how the truck stops... .

The information above you use at your own risk... ABS brake systems were designed primarily for people that do not know how to drive... So if you are one of those people that do not know how to drive or do not know how to work on break systems . Please disregard everything I have mentioned.....

Here is an interesting artical on brake rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml



You may be overheating your front rotors due to the poor brakes on the rear of these trucks. I think I too will use the stock rear cylinders and go with the larger shoes and new drums. My rear brakes have always been poor but I pull a 5th wheel trailer which has it's own brakes.

 

[Greenleaf]

I noticed that after a number of trips I have to manually "self" adjust the rear shoes out a tad bit. I can actually "feel" the difference between adjusted and not-so-adjusted.



Hey... . isn't that why they called them "self adjusting"????



-S

 

[JLEONARD]

isn't that why they called them "self adjusting

:-laf :-laf

 

[EZGZ]

The point on self adjusters is well taken also. I generally monitor mine by how far the emergency brake goes down when you set it. When they are adjusted right I like mine close to the top. When it works its way down past 1/2 or 3/4 I know it is time to adjust.



Seemed like they were acting poorly after I took it in for my last brake job. One side adjusted real easy and the other side was a hassle. I pulled my axle and drum and found they had put the star adjuster in backwards. To bad I didn't discover this right off. I would have taken it back but thats why I prefer doing the job myself.



Being curious and mechanical has its good side and bad.