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PCM: keep or chunk?

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I bought a '94 12V engine originally set up for automatic. My plan is to go NV4500 or 5600. Looks like there are 50 wires going to the PCM and was wondering, do I need this thing or do I just run 12vdc to the fuel shutoff, toggle switch to the grid heaters and be done? What are y'all doing?



Anyone have an engine wiring diagram for a '94 that they could scan?
 
Scot

When I did my conv. I tryed using the pcm. It ended up being a waste of time. Theres too many sensors that are inter-related and if you don't hook-up all of them, nothing works. I ended up wiring using individual switches. Be CAREFUL with the fuel shutoff solinoid on the P-7100 pump. Its a double wound unit and MUST be wired correctly. The pull-in part is energized by the starter solinoid and the hold-in part by the ign. switch. If hooked up wrong or if the ign. switch is left in the "on" position without cranking the starter first, the sol. WILL fry.

Be sure to use the two HD solinoids to activate the grid heaters.

I used a double throw/self centering toggle sw. to activate the grid solinoids.

Hope this info helps. CPFF
 
Hey Scot?

Are you planning to put that engine in your, hmmmm, 93'? :rolleyes: Just thought I'd ask, that would be one really cool conversion :D.



Russell
 
Chuck it Scot. Make sure to get the solenoids for the grid and fuel shutoff from the doaner vehicle. I just have a push button that you have to hold in for the grid. Never use it anyway.

Larry
 
Is that what they call a 'Marine' mod?



Can you post more info on doing this? I've been curious and others have too.



I'll be attempting to put something In my yellow beast and would like to know.



Thanks,
 
Russell,

I am putting this setup in a 1979 Ford F250 SC 4x4.



Some years ago I did a 75 F250 4x4 Highboy and put a 6. 9 Navistar/T19 in it. After becoming good friends with Mr Cracked Block from the 1500 watt heater that almost touches the block and then Mr Machinist Got in a Hurry and didn't size the cylinder bores resulting in 3 galled pistons, then finally Mr Cavitation Erosion, I put the gas engine back in and sold off the whole mess. In spite of it all, the extra mileage from the diesel x miles made the thing a wash. Of course, the 6. 9 couldn't pull what the 390 could by the time I finished with it. My plan when I bought the thing in 1980 was to put the 6cyl 354 CuIn Perkins TD in it.



So I am finally getting the vehicle that I wanted since high skrool. The frame and steering setup on the 77 1/2-79 is better for dropping in the Killer B.



Frame is sitting behind the shop. Body is in the shop and I am currently shaving the drip rails (due to rust). Even in this relatively rust free climate, most of this vintage SC's have rust or the beginnings of it on the drip rails (top) and particularily behind the SC window due to design defect.



The plan is to try for 300hp +or-. We will see if the frame can hold the torque! :D





Larry, Thank you for the diagram. Did you abandon the fuel heater? The chance of me needing it in this climate are remote.
 
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Scott,

The 'Marine' mods are for the simple wiring done in boats. . basically rig it up where you have to attach a ign hot and a starter wire among other minor items. It just makes the engine where it will run anywhere very easily.



If someone knows how to do it to a 24v I wanna know, but I'd like to know about a 12V also.



thx,

Mark
 
Originally posted by Scot



Larry, Thank you for the diagram. Did you abandon the fuel heater? The chance of me needing it in this climate are remote.



Yes I did. What I understand is that the grid and fuel heater is primarily added to reduce smoke when starting cold. My backhoe has a 4B in it without any heat whatsoever. Always starts, smokes but starts. My Rabbit has no fuel heater. You just may want to add a anti-gel to your fuel if you will be traveling into cold areas.



Just my thoughts.
 
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