Pedal adjustment

[upf7flyr]

'95 2500 w/ manual. Trying not to feel dumb, but while fighting with a 'new' left end pedal bushing I also notice that my brake and clutch pedals don't line up and I don't see how either one of the pedals gets 'adjusted'. Am I missing something simple? I keep reading and can't find it. (Had new clutch master cylinder unit installed a year ago, and last month, all new master cylinder and booster. I'm seeing no pedal adjustments). The clutch pedal is 'higher' than the brake pedal. Please tell me how dumb I am..
Another revelation..I just found videos showing how to 'adjust' a new booster rod. (The end facing the master cyl). And I never checked that when I assembled them. (new booster AND master cyl). After all my, long ago, working on old trucks in my 'youth', I don't remember ever having to adjust this rod, and one hint in a recent videos I saw, the guy said 'modern replacement boosters' have this adjustment. Do they all have this feature now? Is this.. Maybe.,. why I'm still having slight drag on my front brakes? (But even this shouldn't affect the 'height' of the brake pedal as the pedal IS all the way 'up' already). (Judging by the clearance at the brake switch). When I checked again yesterday for front brake drag, (it was 'light' but not non-existent'), I did it only after truck sat all night. I guess I need to drive it again then jack it and check for drag. I know I'm jumping back and forth between 2 'problems' but seems they could be related?.. maybe? If I need to dis-mount the master cylinder and check this rod adjustment.. ok.. but will this even affect the pedal height? (I'm doubting it). As usual, I'll take all the help I can get.

 

[GAmes]

My clutch pedal has been higher than the brake pedal ever since the truck was new. It's normal.

 

[NIsaacs]

' If I need to dis-mount the master cylinder and check this rod adjustment..

Yes, you need to check it, that is why the brakes are dragging. It may or may not change your brake peddle height.

 

[petersonj]

When I checked again yesterday for front brake drag, (it was 'light' but not non-existent'), I did it only after truck sat all night.

The brake drag you are talking about here is likely to be normal. Disc brake pads do not move away from the rotor immediately after a brake pedal is released. Square cut o-rings and rotor runout is what moves brake pads slightly away from the rotors. Since the last thing you do when you park your truck is to step on the brake pedal, it would be logical to have some brake drag when being checked.

If the pushrod for the booster did not have the proper free play adjustment, brake drag would likely be very noticeable (on either / or both axles) after driving a few miles. It would show up in the form of a heated rotor / drum. If the piston in the master cylinder cannot return to home position, then brake fluid will be trapped in the brake hydraulic system, which will not allow the brake caliper to move that pads away from the rotor. Thermal expansion from dragging brakes would force the pistons to extend even further, even without brake application. If you haven't noticed any abnormal braking, or brakes getting hot without much brake use, then the pushrod adjustment is probably okay.

As for clutch pedal height, on my truck the clutch pedal is higher than the brake pedal.

- John

 

[upf7flyr]

Thanks. Good info. I'll drive it some more and check it again. Maybe it needs some 'breaking in'. As for the booster, I remember when I installed it, the push rod looked quite short and just a plain rod. No lock nut or threads or any of that. I'm thinking the one for the Dodge doesn't have the adjustment (?). (I got the master cyl and the booster from Rock Auto). Anyone else seen one lately?
And so the pedals aren't going to ever line up..? I gotta wonder why? They had to be lined up better when new, yes?. Looking again, I'm thinking I'll try to adjust the brake light switch bracket all the way 'up' and then adjust the brake rod? (That one is adjustable, right?).

 

[upf7flyr]

I've been told there is no adjustment on the (front end), of the booster. (Or the booster rod to the pedal) (I know there is on other makes ad models). Drove home from shop yesterday and the brakes are dragging more after driving 9 miles. This amount of drag is NOT normal. Something's causing, (heat?) to expand the brakes. Can't tell yet if it fronts or backs or both. Can't find excessive heat with my hand. Before leaving the shop (after they're troubleshooting turned up nothing yet), we couldn't get the brake lights out. There's a 1/2" 'slop' between the 'resting' brake pedal and the actual top of it's stroke when pulled up by hand, (or foot) to get the switch to turn off the lights. WTF? Why is there 'slop' at the top of the brake pedal travel?. (I know, different problem than the brakes dragging, but still).. Is there a spring missing or what. This is making me nuts. All the 'stuff' is new. Calipers, pads, rotors, rears, drums, master cyl, booster.. everything except the rear wheel cyls. (and they looked clean as a whistle). I'm beginning to think more about the Combination Valve and / or the RWAL valve. I have pulled the fuse on the RWAL system years ago, (after the anti-lock almost got me in a wreck, bouncing over wet RR tracks and almost plowed into car in front of me), so does that have any thing to do with this?. Something is holding fluid in the master cylinder or the lines somewhere. Please help me. I think It's going back to the shop today and I'll be having more discussions with them.. but..

 

[GAmes]

There's a 1/2" 'slop' between the 'resting' brake pedal and the actual top of it's stroke when pulled up by hand, (or foot) to get the switch to turn off the lights.

It is normal and has nothing to do with your brakes dragging.

 

[upf7flyr]

Thanks for the response, and I'm sorry but this can't be normal.. If it was, everyone would be having the same brake light switch problem. The way the switch is designed, it is adjusted on initial installation by allowing the pedal back up to it's normal, (after switch installation), Fully up position, thereby pushing the switch rod up to it's 'happy place'.. (by clicking the shaft back in), and there it sits.. (During switch installation you hold the pedal DOWN, until the switch is in place, then release it after switch installation).. Problem is, if there is still more 'room' for the pedal to move UP FURTHER, and you now pull up on the pedal, (with your hand or foot), ..(that 'extra' half inch I'm talking about), the switch will 'click' further into itself.. THEN when you release the pedal, the brake lights stay on because the switch rod is now further in than it was initially. (and I know it has nothing to do with the brakes dragging.. entirely different problem). I just re-checked and there is NO rod adjustment on the new booster.. This is nuts! There HAS to be a way to get rid of this 'slop' in the last upward end of the pedal travel. If you have to be that careful, so as to NEVER..accidentally pull up on the pedal, you'd always be wondering if your brake lights are on all the time.. Which mine have done now..after the new master cylinder and booster were installed. I'm left to assume this new booster is built wrong, or something. NO adjustments anywhere.. Crazy.

 

[upf7flyr]

Just to clarify, my 'first' post on this subject, Nov 4th, does contain some errors. My brake pedal was never, in it's 'normal' resting position, "all the way up".. It was 'up' far enough that it's position seemed normal.. and about the same as it was before installing all the new 'stuff'. But pulling on it, will allow it to come up another good amount, screwing up the switch adjustment. And my contention is that this 'extra' travel, should not be there.. and should be able to be 'adjusted' out somehow.. or corrected by using a 'better' booster.. This is the question I'm searching for an answer to. The booster is NOT adjustable.. at least definitely NOT on the back, (rod) end. And I've been told the 'front' end is, likewise, NOT adjustable on the booster for the Dodge.. Is it POSSIBLE I'm wrong about the adjustment on the front end?

 

[GAmes]

Thanks for the response, and I'm sorry but this can't be normal.. If it was, everyone would be having the same brake light switch problem.

You only have a problem if you pull the brake pedal up with you toe or your hand. Why do you do that? I can do the same with mine and I could when it was brand new off the dealer's lot. The normal resting position of the brake pedal is about one and a quarter inch lower than the clutch pedal. 5 and 6 1/4 inches off the carpet to the top of the pedals respectively. No adjustable booster rod necessary.