Performance upgrade chip for 92 dodge d250

[DRanger]

Does anyone recomned any upgrade tips for a my 92 dodge d250 if you do could you P. M me please .

thanks.

 

[Greenleaf]

Either you are serious or you did this simply to be a comedian?



Did someone put you up to asking this?



Did you mean to ask for "any upgrade TIPS" ?????

 

[DRanger]

Srry

I miss typed I was wondering if there were any cheap upgrades I could do to my dodge to gain some horsepower and fuel economy?

 

[Headshot zod]

I went from Nestle's to Hersey's and I didn't feel any seat of the pants increase.

 

[Headshot zod]

welcome to the forums...





try here

 

[PToombs]

I think it's web-speak, cheap + tips = chips. :-laf: I like it! :-laf

Welcome to TDR ! Lots of good info here.

 

[Greenleaf]

Oh. OK Pete... ... ... .



Thx 4 lttn me no dat bite of 411









:-laf

 

[PToombs]

U R Wlcm.

 

[JLEONARD]

If you give cheap TIPS... they may spit in your food next time you show up. :-laf



Ok. . TIPS... new injector TIPS = more power.

Move the fuel screw TIP clockwise = more power



Read the FAQ section...

 

[DRanger]

thanks but dont chastise me im only 16 and its my first Dodge Diesel if owned and im trying gain some basic knolwedge about my truck.

 

["Mad Max"]

Don't let 'em rattle yer cage too much there amigo - we're all pretty savvy with the upgrades and there are some easy and cheap ways to bomb yer rig ... . plus there are some easy and not-so-cheap ways to really bomb yer rig .

FIrst off, the basic principle with the 1st gens ('89-'93 rigs) is the injection pump is tunable very similarly to how a carburator is tunable - with wrenches and screw drivers - no lap tops required. The FAQ section has a lot of information, and it will be best for you to first off just spend some time reading those sections to get the basic understanding of the componentry, and after that start with the basics.

The main principle for power is this: More fuel = more power. The basic drawback on that is this: More fuel = more heat. The happy meduim is what everyone strives for - the most power for the most managable heat.

There are several bolt-on components, from relatively inexpensive to very spendy, that will give very modest power levels, and, while you may double your power you will also find your fuel mileage will, unless you're a lead foot, most likely remain the same.

You can get a lot more power simply by tuning up the pump - again, see the FAQ. After that most folks go for a set of larger flow injectors, better turbo, and much better flowing exhaust (to get rid of the increased heat produced by the increased fuel).

Lots of fuel = lots of black smoke. By tuning the fuel (pump) to match the boost level (turbo) your smoke will be almost gone at full spool-up, and that lends to the best overall mileage.

Most stock trucks smoke virtually zero. Have a gander at the FAQ and focus on the parts that make up the VE44 pump. Pay close attention to what our beloved Pastor Bob (RIP) has posted, and you will have begun your Jedi apprenticeship in earnest. After no time at all you'll be making 250 hp at the tires and wondering about how difficult it is to install twins, p-pumps, 2nd gen intercoolers, etc. Don't worry - you'll get it after a couple trips down 'bombers lane'.

Your challenge... is to figure out what 'bomb' stands for. Once you do, you'll get the jist of why we love our rigs so much :-laf. By the way, what's yer name dude?

Have fun, enjoy, and when you have questons, ask away.

- M2



1st gen FAQ link: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...1-governor-spring-ve-info-threads-merged.html

 

[CToney]

If you can't dodge it ram it. With a few minor tweaks your right foot will be happier. Set your valves, advance timing a little, do a few searches to get more info. Try to get back issues of the TDR magazine as they will have lots of good info. If you are nearby anyone on here I am sure they wouldn't mind pointing out a few things. Fill out your signature. Good to have some young people get the bombing bug.

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

You can crank up that VE pump pretty far without spending a cent, and if thats all you do, your heat levels will still be acceptable. All you need is a basic set of tools, you'll be spittin smoke and burning up tires in no time. Start with that an see how it makes you feel. When, like all of us, you come to realize you want more, let us know, but be ready to spend money after that.



First things first though, and I'm surprised no one said this yet, GAUGES. Pyro, Boost, and a Tach are a good start. If you get a tach, find one that says it will work with the factory tach wiring on a 92-93 ram diesel. The Cummins motor has everything you need built in, so you don't need to buy any goofy sensors or anything. Anyone here can point you in the right direction there.

 

[RitterD]

All the above advice is correct an great info.

I remember the first vehicle I had, spent every $$$ I had to get it and hoped the previous owner left enough fuel in it for me to get it home!



So there are a few things you should check to protect your new “investment”, before you go fast.



“First things first though, and I'm surprised no one said this yet,”



BRAKES!

Make sure your are in correct working order.

Never trust that the PO (Previous Owner) that you bought it from with YOUR and your LOVED ONES lives!



If you haven't done a brake job before, or been taught how,

find a professional. Either a place that specializes in 3/4 to 1 ton work trucks or some place that has a continuous business with larger professional work trucks.

Go to a place where their customers rely on their vehicles to put food on the table.

Chances of getting a bum deal will be reduced, compared to some of these “assembly line” shops.



Also surprised no one mentioned first to check for the dreaded KDP!



Do a search for “KDP” on the forums and do it now!

The cost to repair the aftermath, will feel like buying your truck a second time.



Then hook up a pyro gauge, and a tach.

Many instructions are here on the forum as to how, where to put the sensor, and where it should be reading.



Then you should find out where a Dyno Day is being held.

This will give you a baseline to work from.

Depending on you graph, your milage and other factors.

You can have someone knowledgeable tell you if your vehicle is running at its best, in it’s current state of tune.



You might find you need your valves adjusted, your injectors are plugged up, your pump might be getting tired.



Get it running right, first.



Then if something needs to be replaced, you can always justify getting the “better” part to replace the wore out one.



Remember, it only costs 100% more to go first class!



And listen to the old guys.

They’ve already spent their children's inheritance, and broken a bunch of parts finding out how not to do it.

Why would you want to repeat their “experiments”. :-laf



You’ll have a lot of fun for a long time to come.

I’ve already got over 300,000 on mine... ... .



Don

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

Not trying to be a smart*** or nothin' but what I was saying about the tach is you can avoid mounting a sensor all together. Cummins put one on these motors, but the Dodge trucks didn't have anywhere for a tach in the dash setup. Behind the dash, under the steering column, near the fuse box, there is a factory harness for a tach. For your truck, you can get a kit to hook up an aftermarket tach to this harness for around $30, plus the cost of the tach itself. Don't mess around with mounting sensors. Check out the stickies at the top of this forum, we went over the wiring to make this method work with an Isspro tach and harness kit.



Also if you have an auto transmission, get a temp gauge, and be ready to either upgrade it or be rebuilding it every 6 months if you really start getting serious about power. I've had mine rebuilt 3 times in just over a year at somewhere between 2 and 3 grand a pop. If you have a manual transmission, it'll hold up to a little more. So I hear overfilling it by a quart helps... don't quote me, ask one of these guys who have one.

 

[JLEONARD]

thanks but dont chastise me im only 16 and its my first Dodge Diesel if owned and im trying gain some basic knolwedge about my truck

We were just trying to see how much we could get away with... sort of a test by a bunch of sick puppies Ok by a bunch of sick OLD puppies:-laf:-laf present company included



Don't feel like D(lone)Ranger here... we all get cracked on. That's part of da culture.



Look in the FAQ section. It describes a general order of things on how to BOMB your truck ... (did you figure that one out yet??)

Better Off Modified Baby!!

That should tell the whole story and set the tone. There are lots of ways to BOMB your truck... . some free, some expensive (Tippin already admitted to that LOL)



So get some gages, or BOMB and drive lightly untill you get those gages and most of all... . have fun!

Jay

 

[RitterD]

Not trying to be a smart*** or nothin'



Sorry, not trying to step on any toes here, Spotted Cow.

Just sat here trying to think if anything came before the gauges.

And those were the answers I came up with, from personal experience. #@$%!

(like I said, old men, and money)



Since I discovered first hand that the KDP was not a 2nd gen only problem. :--):{

(Check my pics)

I felt it was important to let DRanger know.

Just think, with that information, his subscription just paid for itself... ...



Don

 

[DRanger]

Thanks for all the advice and my name is Vince.

 

[PToombs]

Okay Vince, most of us like to bust chops, some more than others. :-laf It's good that your 1st truck is a diesel.

On the KDP thing, on the 1st gen trucks, the 5 bolts by the cam come loose more often than the KDP falls out. When you pull the cover to do the KDP, remove the 5 bolts, clean, and loctite back in there. You need to bend a 10mm wrench to get the ones behind the cam gear. 1 or 2 don't come out because of the gear, just tighten the heck outta those.



I think we have the basics covered. If you need anything, just shout, we're always here. Heck, who'm I kiddin, I live here! :-laf