Yes all the valve seals are green = for exhaust. Stock intake are tan and exh are green. Green seals/exhaust, I'm guessing, are silicon? Recommended to us to use all exhaust when running high egts, Kelly is running twins, Don's Mach7 sticks, etc. and doesn't always have his water meth charged, so once again "Cheap Insurance". Note the seals we used that came from same supplier of springs have shims built in.
Set VP timing gear to line up with mark on timing cover @ TDC, do 1 and 6, then turn crank 90*, 2 and 5, 90* 3 and 4. To make sure we had the piston @ TDC we removed injectors (were swaping in the new broken arrows anyway and because the welded bolt on bottom of tool may have contacted inj top), held long Phillips screwdriver in inj hole barred engine until screwdriver top reached top of swing to make certain piston was all the way at the top of travel. When springs were compressed and keepers out, we held each valve individually with a magnet and pushed down till we felt it hit piston (just to be sure we didn't loose a valve), loosen spring compressor and remove tool top plate to swap seals and springs. Compress new springs & old retainers, install keepers and loosen compressor . . . next hole. The socket you see in 3rd and 4th picture (either a 3/4 or 5/8 I forget) and plastic plug (saved from a new air tool I recently bought - was in the air inlet fitting for shipping) was used for cheap insurance see picture 5 with it installed in the inj hole = you don't want a keeper to end up inside the combustion chamber
. The socket fit rather nicely in the inj hole so much so we had to pull the inj supply tube out a little when putting it in and taking out.
I recommend (after doing this job and screwing up the valve lash on one cylinder, of course it "had" to be #6) not adjusting the valves using this - "set @ tdc, do 1 and 6, turn 90* do 2 and 5, etc" - method. Makes sense when your all apart like this and since you have to remove the rocker assy to compress springs to reset the valve lash, but once you have all the springs, rockers and injectors installed, go thru the normal valve lash procedure don't set lash as you go. Even though you are certain (when doing the springs) the piston is @ tdc this doesn't mean the cam, pushrods and rockers are in the exact sequence/position to set the lash "correctly". After I set the rockers "as we went along" we ended up with the #6 rockers being off from the 0. 010" Int and 0. 020" they were supposed to be to more like 0. 050" and 0. 100". it sounded like it was puffing air out of the turbo while we were cranking it to start. . . So for sure go thru the "normal" valve lash sequence as stated in the shop manual
The spring compressor tool worked very nicely, I don't know it there's another way to do this job "head on engine, engine in chassis" without this tool. It probably wasn't as fancy as the billet red one you can buy from other vendors, but it worked fine, just make sure the holes are lined up on the valve stem retainers and valve tips are centered on the hole before you start cranking the springs down. A strong magnet is a must to help get the keepers out without dropping them . . . somewhere they don't belong:{. We used part of an egg container and marked the holes: RL, RR, FL and FR, RL = Rear Left to keep track of what came from where and help us get them back where they belong. It worked for us, you could mark the holes LE = Left Exhaust etc. as well, whatever works to make sure the retainers, keepers and rocker bridges end up where they came from. Also worthy of mention, make sure the little tit on top of one side of the rocker bridge faces the exhaust side of the engine "and" the intake bridge will not go on if you tighten the rocker assy before installing them. Keep rocker assy bolts just threaded in a few turns to hold in place, set the bridges in place then hand tighten the rocker assy bolts. Rocker assy bolts torque to 27 ft. lbs and the inj hold downs torque to 89 in. lbs. note: that's "inch pounds" on the inj hold downs not foot pounds . . . .
Yes this was a fun job that took us about 12 hours, including: stopping to run out for cheese steaks and eating them, bull ****ting around too much, taking many "man are my friggin calf muscles sore from leaning over this blasted thing" breaks. All totaled work time was probably like 6 hours, which was not bad considering we never did this before and installed new injectors, set valve lash etc. Next time it'll probably be about a 4-5 hour job.
Hope this helps someone sometime.
Your friendly neighborhood Mad Scientist:--)
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