Pilot bearing & Clutch Petal

[M Barnett]

About ready to put in a con-o clutch in my 94. Now I'm wondering if I should replace the pilot bearing with a bronze or oilite bearing? The small needle bearings are prone to early failure, right? I have the kevlar bearing that came with the clutch, but don't know if I can trust anybody to bore the flywheel out and maintain . 001 concentricity. If they didn't, then I would have another problem.

I also notice a problem with the hydraulic clutch petal, it seems to be hanging up on something when close to the floor or complete disengagement. When you are letting it up is when it seems to hang up and a couple times I felt the brake petal move as though the clutch petal hit it. I've checked the ball joint connected to the petal and can't find anything wrong. The hydraulic unit has been replaced once. Anybody know what this is? It is shifting fine.

Thanks---M Barnett

 

[bighammer]

You might check out (remove) the pivot pin that the two pedals ride on. The plastic bushings might be hanging up. Unless there is something else causing interference, that's my best guess.

 

[rhoads]

kevlar

Trust me use the supplyed bushing. the . 001 can be done by any good machine shop. Your other choice will be beaten out as the needlle's have or whill in the miles to come. . As for the brake pedal movement It does even though they are not connected except at pivot point. .

The hang up/catch at floor or near is a sign of those needles getting close to failure. Been ther had that. If this were a double disc set up OOOORRRR some one installed a disc with out the damping spring 's in the center hub Then the # 1 bet is the hub splines nave worn a grove on the input shaft which will cause the hang up. .

On the movement of the brake pedal ,push down slightly on the clutch and my bet is you will see the brake wiggle. .

 

[M Barnett]

Thanks bighammer, I will check the cross shaft, I hadn't thought of that. And tdramrmbr, it makes sense about the hub splines being worn. Maybe its a good thing I'm putting in a new clutch. Guess I will go ahead with the kevlar bearing. I have a lathe, but it isn't big enough to swing the flywheel!

Thanks Fellows

Michael

 

[Big John]

I went back with a new pilot bearing from DC. It is my understanding that the kevlar bushing is to use if there is existing wear or wallow on the pilot bearing. That's the way I read instructions from the clutch people anyway.



Big John

 

[rhoads]

Wear/bushing

The bushing can be used with a New input shaft OR used shaft.

And i can tell you you will never replace IT. Where as the needel bearing set up Will be visit'ed. I know mine (with out digging thru paper) has been in place over 500 K.

While we are in the area,IF you ever have a needel bearing failure and some D/c or any other shop say's it has spun and trashed the flywheel ($ 500. ) slap the the tec first (get his attention) remove the flywheel and take it to a machine shop and have it sleeve'd (for needel bearing) or cut it out for the kevlar.

This is done on big rig's every day and there is plenty extra mest on the valo/d/c flywheel . . Half the cost!!

 

[Deezul1]

I talked with the folks at Southbend yesterday and asked about the needle vs oilite bronze. They said use the needle bearing setup as they see less problems with that and the kevlar bearing is especially good for 1st gen trucks with Getrag trans, not such a big improvment on 2nd gen unless there is shaft damage in the bearing area.