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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Pilot bearing dead, replace worn clutch with new OEM dodge clutch disc?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Lower Raiator Hose

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I've got a lovely pilot bearing problem, mainly a disturbing dry-bearing noise, so I figured that I had better pull the transmission and check it, which means a clutch re and re while I'm in there (if it needs it). Looking at SBC and other possibilities, when it occured to me that the OEM clutches seem to hold up pretty good. Has anybody just resurfaced their flywheel and replaced the clutch disc without buying 800+ dollars worth of this and that in clutch upgrades? I do plan on towing 14K, but the power will stay stock and I've heard of people towing 15-18K often with the stock setup. Any input?



Also, anyone have any suggestions for the pilot bearing. After many searches it seems that the oil-lite bushing is popular choice, but I'm a little worried about it drying out.



Thanks in advance.
 
Hi,

I removed the NV4500 in my 95 last year to have the bearings replaced. 100K miles and I thought it was a bit early for a stock truck. I pull about 8K infrequently. I too was going to replace the clutch at the same time but when I measured it, it was nearly like new. (Stock truck). The flywheel looked good but I did polish it up a bit by hand. I did replact the pilot and release bearings Standard transmission (they replaced the bearings) recommended the oil-lite replacement although my original bearing looked good. The release bearing was also in good shape.

Anyhow, I went through the same thoughts you are having and so far I think I did the right thing. I don't think you have to spend that much money for a modest SBC upgrade if you think the disc needs to be replaced. I would go with SBC if you need a replacement. The oil-lite bearing is fully impregnated with lubricant and won't dry out.

Rog
 
Here's the lowdown:



I have gone through 5 clutches... One stock, and the other were SBC's... Not one time did I get poor customer service. Peter and South Bend Clutch are second to none, and I would never own another product. Sure, it is a little more, but why dont you try to get the kind of customer service, and someone who won't just look at you, laugh, and tell you "Tough luck. "? You spend so much money on a truck, want to BOMB it, then scrounge around on a cheap clutch?? Just trying to help steer you right. . South Bend is the only way to go.



-Chris-
 
I gave peter a call at SBC and he cleared up some confusing wording on his website. From what he told me, the cheaper MU Rally clutch kit will hold up to my stock truck pulling big loads just fine, and that the warning about going to the larger flywheel size for towing heavy was for those with substantial performance mods.



I was looking at the pictures online and I just noticed that the kit seems to come with a funny bushing in addition to the throw-out bearing and needle bearing. What is that for? I really don't want to call and bug Peter again for a simple question as I'm sure he's a pretty busy guy.
 
I'm running the Rally clutch. At the time of install I was running a very heavy slidein, Jeep & trailer. Had no problem w/600ft lb tq. Have since sold the slidein.
 
That would be it, the kevlar pilot bushing. Quite the ingenious little idea.



WCJP, thanks for the input. How many miles have you put on your rally clutch to date?
 
SBC also has a roller ball bearing conversion as well. Ask Peter about this , I just put one in my truck a few months back. I had about 45k on my OFE and it looked great so I put it right back in with the new pilot bearing.
 
I bought a new flywheel from Peter with the ball bearing conversion. It's a real nice setup and the first class way to go.



Ball bearing in the flywheel and the OEM bearing in the package.
 
wow, thanks guys for the info. It looks like a great solution. I should give Peter a call and see if there are any long term reports on just how long it is expected that the ball bearing will last as compared to the OEM?
 
Coalsmoke said:
WCJP, thanks for the input. How many miles have you put on your rally clutch to date?





It's been on for about 15,000miles. The clutch pedal also takes slightly less pressure. I did run it at 700lb tq for awhile. I recently slid the plate back. I'm towing the Jeep to the Rubicon tomorrow. Don't want to get too hot while towing through the mountains. With the custom plate full forward and the 3000GSK it can get a little warm.
 
What is the part number on the bearing? Maybe you could buy one at the bearing supply store and have the flywheel machined locally.
 
... ... ... ... how long it is expected that the ball bearing will last as compared to the OEM?



I put 100k miles on mine and it was still good when I had my transmission overhauled. I replaced it anyway, along with the release bearing that was also still working. Didn't do anything to the clutch plate, pp or flywheel. I have a SBC Con O.
 
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I ran 105k miles (about 45% towing) with an SBC flywheel/HD bearing and it didn't work out well for me for some reason. I pulled the clutch due to a spring falling out. It was hanging up from time to time and making me think the pilot was bad. The bearing was dry but still rolling fine. The problem is that it wore the input shaft pretty bad. The shaft was down . 019" and the bearing had worn . 012". I did start out with a . 005" scar on the NV5600 nose from the previous stock bearing, which may have played a roll. See pics of the clutch and damaged shaft at the very bottom of this page: Picasa Web Albums - Mark - Truck Stuff
 
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