Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pinion Exploded

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission tailgate won't latch

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Tach and oil press

Status
Not open for further replies.
Started a noise like an air chisel in the drive line of the Ole Dodge.





I found a wheel bearing I had installed 2000 miles ago had a flat spot (installation error) but when I got the axle out it had shavings on the end of it. I took that as a grim sign and popped the new PML cover (also installed with the bearings) and found one entire tooth laying in the bottom on the housing. Trashed my $60 of new synthetic fluid... .





SO... ... Does this D70 need a standard D70 ring and pinion or does it need one that gives attention to the tone ring?



Also, Since i'm here, What traction aid to you guys like? Any of the Eaton stuff? Selectable lockers, Electric lockers?? I've got about $1,000 to play with on this so I wanted some suggstions from those of you running aftermarket traction aides (and yes, i'm aware it's already an LSD)



I just can't get ahead of the factory stuff failing..... atleast I know it'll be stronger in the end.



Thanks
 
Nows a good time to step up to a dana 80 and solve some more potential problems.



What do you do, any truck pulling? If so get the 80. If you drive it and pull trailer the 70 will probably be fine. I broke 3 teeth off the pinion in my old first gen. Got a new 3. 55 and put it in. I think the tone ring is on the carrier. If yours is a limited slip, split it and restack the clutches so its friction, steel, friction. It will get you much better results then the stock were they softened it to oblivion.



If you detest the factory LS, then a detroit will give you positive automatic traction, but will not be much fun pulling trailers with heavy pin weight. An ARB will give you both open for icy, or rainy street driving, and gauranteed positive traction when necessary.



Michael
 
I've always been happy with my factory installed Power Lock too. 94 and after they started stacking the clutchs with a few frictions in a row, so the Limited Slip would be more limited :rolleyes: As if I want to only spin one tire around a corner. :-laf If the clutchs are stacked properly then they are a nice limited slip. It just makes the truck a little bit challenging to drive on the ice. ;)



Michael
 
Inclement weather isn't much of a problem here... .





So the frictions aren't currently stacked in alternating order? Right now some clutches are stacked side by side and them the steels are used?









This rear end failed after a switch to synthetic fluid and new hub bearings. The old bearings were fine but I had an oil seal go down on the driver side and desided it was time anyway at 200K .





This thing has perfectly cracked one tooth directly into the center of the pinion. I'm running a 10 plate in the stock position into a Very weak slush box. It shouldn't have seen enough power to make it break.



It was making a noise and pop whenever I would do a sharp turn that I thought was just the tire hopping until I put the synthetic in it and it stopped. I guess it was on it's way down then. I think very strongly that it was mileage related rather than abuse related though. I've been so busy babying my trans that the rear shouldn't have popped from excessive force.





I'm going to order replacement parts on monday hopefully.



Go into further detail on the LSD clutch arrangement please, imagery would be very helpful.
 
It's always that way. . least for me. I was babying my Jeep on a trail one day, heard a pop... ended up being a broken axle shaft, which also took out the ARB locker :eek:
 
biggy238 said:
So the frictions aren't currently stacked in alternating order? Right now some clutches are stacked side by side and them the steels are used?



Most likely. After 93 Dodge must have had some complaints about aggressive LS, and then they started stacking the clutches, so the LS would be weaker. A properly stacked clutch pack will have friction,steel,friction, steel, etc. If you pop yours apart, it will be friction, steel, friction, steel,friction, friction, friction, steel. This can be corrected by restacking it correctly, it probably wouldn't hurt to install new clutches at this time. Make sure and soak the clutches before installation, and use LS additive when filling the diff with oil.



biggy238 said:
This thing has perfectly cracked one tooth directly into the center of the pinion. I'm running a 10 plate in the stock position into a Very weak slush box. It shouldn't have seen enough power to make it break.



It was making a noise and pop whenever I would do a sharp turn that I thought was just the tire hopping until I put the synthetic in it and it stopped. I guess it was on it's way down then. I think very strongly that it was mileage related rather than abuse related though. I've been so busy babying my trans that the rear shouldn't have popped from excessive force.



Mine failed about 220,000 miles. *I* believe it was due to the fact I never checked the backlash. It would be interesting to know if yours was out of spec, then it would be loading the teeth wrong. Make sure its setup right and it should be good for a long time.



biggy238 said:
Go into further detail on the LSD clutch arrangement please, imagery would be very helpful.



Sorry no pics, there was a writeup on here a long time ago about restacking the LS, maybe by Steve St. Laurent. Can't remember for sure.



Michael
 
Thanks for That Link.





When I put the Diff Cover on, I checked the pinion for play in and out and side to side. It had none. I checked it for lash by just rotating it, and it only turned 2-3* of rotation before moving the ring gear. I realize this isn't the same as taking marking compound and actually seeing the contact patch, but it seemed tight enough to me that I let it go. That's probably what sealed it's fate.



Right now i'm exploring whether it's more economical to switch to a D80 or to recondition this rear end.



Added the picture. The top tooth is out. It's hard to take a good picture of a hole in broad daylight. :-laf
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top