2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission pinion seal

[Wyomingcowboy]

My rear pinion seal has developed a nasty leak lately. I could smell gear lube for a few months but didn't have a noticeable leak until just before christmas. Anyway, I have to add about 1 quart every couple hundred miles. I am fairly certain that i have the Dana 80. There is a "D80" stamped on the housing and I have the HO motor with 6 speed trans, etc. ) Does anyone have part #'s for the seal? I am also not real sure of the procedure. I have SomeData but per usual, they don't give a good how-to on the pinion seal only. Also, I've been looking at this part #M3586 from snap on for the socket. (1 7/8") Does this sound correct?



I thought I might as well replace the driver's side wheel seal while I'm at it as it has been very slowly leaking for years.

TIA

 

[B.G. Smith]

That's a helluva price for a socket. I would not use an impact on the nut. The tightening torque is pretty high but can be done with a cheater. You can buy a torque multiiplier for less than that socket. The procedure is pretty straight forward, Mark the position of everything before dissassembly to aid in reassembly. Not much help I know. Good luck, bg

 

[Road Dog]

From my 2001 FSM (sorry, no pictures):



PINION SEAL

REMOVAL

(1) Raise and support the vehicle.

(2) Scribe a mark on the universal joint, pinion

yoke, and pinion shaft for reference.

(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft from the pinion

yoke. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright posi-

tion to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.

(4) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.

(5) Remove the brake drums to prevent any drag.

The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque

measurement.

(6) Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.

(7) Measure the amount of torque necessary to

rotate the pinion gear with a (in. lbs. ) dial-type

torque wrench. Record the torque reading for instal-

lation reference.

(8) Hold the yoke with Wrench 6719. Remove the

pinion shaft nut and washer.

(9) Remove the yoke with Remover C-452 (Fig. 22).

(10) Remove the pinion shaft seal with suitable

pry tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.



INSTALLATION

(1) Clean the seal contact surface in the housing

bore.

(2) Examine the splines on the pinion shaft for

burrs or wear. Remove any burrs and clean the shaft.

(3) Inspect pinion yoke for cracks, worn splines

and worn seal contact surface. Replace yoke if neces-

sary.

NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated

with a special sealant. An additional application of

sealant is not required.

(4) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the

lip of pinion seal.

(5) Install new pinion shaft seal with an appropri-

ate Installer.

(6) Position pinion yoke on the end of the shaft

with the reference marks aligned.

(7) Seat yoke on pinion shaft with Installer D-191

and Yoke Holder 6719 (Fig. 23).

(8) Remove the tools and install the pinion yoke

washer and nut.

(9) Hold pinion yoke with Yoke Holder 6719 and

tighten shaft nut to 597 N·m (440 ft. lbs. ) (Fig. 24).

Rotate pinion shaft several revolutions to ensure the

bearing rollers are seated.

(10) Rotate the pinion shaft using an inch pound

torque wrench. Rotating resistance torque should be

equal to the reading recorded, plus a small amount

for the drag the new seal will have (Fig. 25).

NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be con-

stant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If

the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding

condition.

(11) Install the propeller shaft with the installa-

tion reference marks aligned.

(12) Tighten the universal joint yoke clamp screws

to 19 N·m (14 ft. lbs. ).

(13) Install the brake drums.

(14) Add gear lubricant to the differential housing,

if necessary. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for

gear lubricant requirements.

(15) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower

the vehicle.

 

[HHhuntitall]

That's a good description of the procedure..... although 440 ft-lbs is a bit much, I think. You can crush the collar used to set pinion depth from the factory at that setting, and ruin a good gear setup, inadvertently. Let me suggest more like 250-300ft-lbs to prevent that. I do these fairly regularly, and use a regular (Craftsman, BluePoint, or Harbour Freight all work well) 3/4drive socket, which will fit inside the yoke. I do use an impact wrench. But I use mine regularly, and know what settings are approximately what torque, which means you should finish tightening and check torque setting with a good torque wrench.



Also, check your yoke for a wear groove. I've seen several that required a wear sleeve on the yoke to prevent leaking. IF my notes are correct, the wear sleeve should be a National 99253 and I list two seals for the 80 as National 4525V and 100727. The 4525V is an old number, I'm not sure if it's still in use.....



EDIT: Oops, Bob pointed out that the Dana 80s don't have crush sleeves, and he's right! Forget about overtorqueing and crushing the sleeve on those, they use shims!!



Oh, and I THINK the wheel seal is a National 455086... .

 

[SHobbs]

Here is a good source for bearings and seals.

Timken Online Parts Catalog

 

[CCahill]

Fyi

I recently had a pinion leak also... . thought it was going to be an easy fix... the reason the seal went bad is because the pinion bearing went all wobblydo... . be sure and check the bearing when you get it apart...

 

[Bob4x4]

Make sure you use the correct torque,using less

Is not wise!!!!!!!

The Snap on socket has too much wall thickness

As sold and will need to be turned down.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

lots of good info here. thanks guys. It'll still be a week or so before I can get to this as I don't have a torque multiplier yet or a wrench that goes up that high.

 

[Bob4x4]

That's a good description of the procedure..... although 440 ft-lbs is a bit much, I think. You can crush the collar used to set pinion depth from the factory at that setting, and ruin a good gear setup, inadvertently. Let me suggest more like 250-300ft-lbs to prevent that. I do these fairly regularly, and use a regular (Craftsman, BluePoint, or Harbour Freight all work well) 3/4drive socket, which will fit inside the yoke. I do use an impact wrench. But I use mine regularly, and know what settings are approximately what torque, which means you should finish tightening and check torque setting with a good torque wrench.



Also, check your yoke for a wear groove. I've seen several that required a wear sleeve on the yoke to prevent leaking. IF my notes are correct, the wear sleeve should be a National 99253 and I list two seals for the 80 as National 4525V and 100727. The 4525V is an old number, I'm not sure if it's still in use.....



Oh, and I THINK the wheel seal is a National 455086... .

No crush sleeves on the real Dana's Only recently the lil Dana's started using crush sleeves

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I pulled the driveline off today to see about the nut size and it sure enough is a 1 7/8". I have a 3/4" drive craftsman set that fits... . now all I need is a torque multiplier and a little time.....

 

[HHhuntitall]

No crush sleeves on the real Dana's Only recently the lil Dana's started using crush sleeves

Ah, yes, well, DUH!! On the 70/80 there is not, they use shims to set the backlash/preload. But if you ever do a 60 that has a crush sleeve, you'll want to remember not to overtorque!! I forget sometimes... ... ok, so I forget a lot.....

 

[1tuffram]

I pulled the driveline off today to see about the nut size and it sure enough is a 1 7/8". I have a 3/4" drive craftsman set that fits... . now all I need is a torque multiplier and a little time.....

Did you finish replacing the seal? What did you dfind out once everything was apart? I've been reading that usually the yoke is grooved from the seal and also needs replaced. Also read that the new yokes are thicker resulting in the crafstman sockets needing to be ground down some to fit. The pinion seal is leaking on my '95 so looking for advice and any tips/tricks from those who have done this repair.

 

[HHhuntitall]

... they make a wear sleeve for that, just hard to find.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

My yoke had a small groove worn in it and I replaced the seal only and so far so good.