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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) piston coatings

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) the plan

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Dana 70 Trac-Lok

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NO, that has no effect at all. the coating I used is 2 mil thick to make Piston indestructible And be more slippery. Other than running cooler and lasting longer, they might also make it a little less noisy.

Rick
 
You would not know the difference, all the parts moving in an engine is what create heat. You really want less heat in that area! i coated the new ones as I saw wear around my skirts on the old pistons after 210,00 miles, number 6 was the worst
 
You would not know the difference, all the parts moving in an engine is what create heat. You really want less heat in that area! i coated the new ones as I saw wear around my skirts on the old pistons after 210,00 miles, number 6 was the worst



i dont know if i agree with that statement. the heat really comes from the fuel combustion. friction is a bad thing the oil is supposed to remove that, though it is not perfect. as far as wanting less heat in the cylinders, again i dont think thats right. more heat equals better combustion, and more complete fuel burn, that equals more power for a given amount of fuel, which means more work done for less fuel burned. the coatings will increase the heat by reflection back into the cylinder, burning the fuel more completely.



the wear on the skirts is going to happen. the tefflon or whatever dry lube material that is being used reduces wear on startup, as well as assists the oil in lubercating those parts. that means less wear and tear on the components. wear is going to happen no matter what though since the oil is not perfect and cant remove friction completely, just greatly reduce it.



the idea of all the different coatings is to assist the engine in operation. by manipulating the laws of physics to obtain higher effiecy. ceramic coatings on the pistons and valves reflect heat back into the chamber instead of absorbing it, equating better fuel burn. ceramic coatings in the exhaust help to hold heat in, the air is hotter and there for flows better. using less energy to push the air out, on a turbo engine it also means it will drive the turbo better, since as i understand it, the turbo is driven by heat as well as exhaust volume. more ceramics are used in the intake track to keep heat out, keeping the air cooler and denser for more o2 in the cylinders. teflon or graphite coatings on bearings and wear surfaces reduce friction. this does a number of things. it reduces wear on dry start ups were oil cant lubericate yet, it assists the oil in lubericating those parts and avoids metal to metal contact, and since its reducing friction less energy is being spent in keeping the engine running and instead being put to work i. e. propelling the vehicale forward. it would probably also extened your oil change intervals based on oil samples because the oil would run cooler, it would not break down as fast.



the effects of that would be increased fuel economy and as vaughn commented on warm up time could change. i dont know how it would change though. it could be slower since at an idle, warming up, less fuel is being burned to maintain rpm, for all the reasons mentioned above. also the oil being cooler would not exchange heat with the water as fast. it could speed up warm up time, if as i mentioned the heat that is going into the water and therefore warming up the engine, would increase some, or it could simply stay the same because the cylinder walls and water will only absorb water at a constant rate.



based on engine theory these are the senarios that i think could result if one tested it. i would think that warm up time is the same or slightly increased if the entire engine were treated, fuel mileage and horsepower would jump up significantly as well i would think. as for a quieter engine, i could see that as a positive side effect. it would be interesting to see all the performance specs of two identical engines running side by side in the same conditions, one coated and one factory. i would love to do it myself if i had the money to build an engine and had access to a dyno.
 
Member Dee Rawson (drawson) damaged his engine sucking in turbo parts at the 2003 Bullydog event, he did a lot of coatings when he rebuilt it. I remember him saying it took a lot longer to get up to operating temp. Here's his thread & pictures about the rebuild but I wasn't able to find where he commented about the long warmup time.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-transmission/99717-more-pic-my-overhaul.html



vaughn its not impossible by any means. the heat inside the engine is going a lot of palces. standard theory is 1/3 to coolant and radiant heat, 1/3 out exhaust, 1/3 to power. as for the coolant heat, the coatings reflecting it back into the cylinder keeps the oil cooler. engine oil typically runs 20 to 30 degrees hotter than coolant. so during warm up if the oil is not pulling heat from the pistons because the ceramics are reflecting it away then that heat that would be in the oil and go to the oil cooler wouldnt be there. slowing warm up times. no doubt the head not absorbing as much heat means the water runs much cooler too. this is the kind of evidence i like to hear. this would lend creedence to vaughns original thought, and it makes sense. like i said i could see it happening a lot of ways. its just a matter of what is really warming the engine up. we all know its the combustion of fuel, but is it through the oil, cylinder walls, or head? is it more through coolant or oil? thats the hard part to figure out.



quick question do these engines have a water bypass that lets the water circulate in the block when the thermostat is closed.
 
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